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Discussion Starter #1
So I am looking for a pair of frame mount sliders. I know there are many good choices and I don't want to talk specific brands.

My question is that many of the frame mount sliders that are bolt-on use the bottom portion of the frame to thread a new bolt into. What happens is that the bracket will butt the frame on the bottom and the front. The installer will drill a hole into the bottom on the frame rail, tap the hole and then thread the new bolt into the frame rail to hold the slider.

Now the rails will normally have another bolt that is drilled through another hard point as well, but that bottom bolt bugs me. It seems like it can only be picking up one or two threads. The frame rail is definitely not thick enough to provide sufficient engagement to reach full tension strength of the bolt.

Not sure if it matters, but it bugs me so I thought I would throw it out there. Non-issue?

I am going to go with the bolt-ons and put a few stitch welds on it.

Thx
 

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****
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weld the piss outta the whore and forget about the bolts
 

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Yip x3. If you change your mind about it or if they get damaged its nothing a sawsall and a grinder cant fix.
 

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I'll pile on. I did exactly this... the whole piss and weld... add a mashed finger and burning through my shirt as well. EDIT - Once mine were welded on, I removed the bolts
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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C clamp and weld the whore out of them. Mine are just welded, no stinkin bolts. Lifted the whole Jeep up a couple of times by the slider and no problemos. Bolts are for whores, just weld.
 

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Ya piss on those whores and weld them on ! I had a similar situation with some light mounts that were bolt on but could not get the drill in where I mounted them and just welded those whores on !!!
 

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As previously mentioned, the key step in this process is saturating those whores in piss. After you are done doing that, go into your garage and weld on your sliders.

Seems like you have already made the decision to pick up some bolt-on sliders and weld them. However, a nice set of weld on sliders will eliminate the exposed frame bolt issue.
 

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Don't most of them use the lower factory bolt holes for the transmission and transfer case skid on the bottom of the frame rails?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for sharing all the technical knowledge and experience. I appreciate it. It had put my mind completely at ease.

I am just going to weld the bitch, but has decided to skip the pissing step. I trust this will not affect the integrity as I have found a quench is generally not indicated for a TIG weld.
 

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Thanks for sharing all the technical knowledge and experience. I appreciate it. It had put my mind completely at ease.

I am just going to weld the bitch, but has decided to skip the pissing step. I trust this will not affect the integrity as I have found a quench is generally not indicated for a TIG weld.
Do Not weld the Bitch, bad things happen when you try to weld bitches. Whores are much more pliable and easy to deal with. That is why all the advice is to weld the Whore.:thefinger:
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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It is highly advised to piss on the whore after you weld, pissing on the whore while welding can create an alternate arc path. :)
 
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