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Discussion Starter #1
I have been running the Genright aluminum tire carrier for a couple of years. I have been pretty happy with it.

Protip: don't back into a tree in 4Low.

Shit. Barely tapped a tree when doing a U-Turn in a tight place. I was in 4Low and it gave it enough push to shove in my rear corner.



I strapped onto a tree and pulled it out a little, but the next day my nephew was driving it in a different area and did the same damn thing.



I will try to pull it out again, but I am a little concerned that I am going to pull the whole damn plate out. Any ideas on options? Will a body shop be able to repair this kind of damage? Should I just go with corners and not worry about it?
 

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5,114 Posts
thats why i went evo.... the corners!
 

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Ouch. :(

That's the exact reason why I went with the Metalcloak bumper & tire carrier for my Jeep - any rear impact gets transferred directly into the bumper, and then directly into the frame. I've seen this sort of thing happen too many times on body-mounted tire carriers and above-the-bumper tire carriers - they're generally fine for supporting the spare tire, but have no real strength for rear-end collisions or bumps against rocks and trees on the trail. Metalcloak is one of the few who seem to have thought this through...

Back to your problem - I think a body shop would be able to repair that, but that corner will never have its original strength without some additional reinforcement. Bondo is obviously not a structural material, but pulling out the dents and smoothing it over for repaint and reinstallation of the tire carrier hardware should bring it back to pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback. I think I will try to find a competent body shop to see what they can do. I haven't had much luck in the past with body shops doing what they say they can do, but it is worth a shot. I think then corners are in my future. Hopefully I won't "test" the strength of this too many more times.
 

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R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
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A competent body shop should be able to remove that corner at the seams and replace it entirely. Won't be cheap. When I had my 01 TJ, some landscaper asshole crammed a shitty cage trailer into my DS rear corner and left without leaving any info. Smashed the light and fucked the soft top up, pushed the corner in about 3-4 inches. Wasn't worth slide hammer repair, so they drilled out all the seam welds from the door jamb all the way around the back and removed the whole corner and then welded a new one back in. With the JK, they added that extra seam, so it shouldn't be as bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A competent body shop should be able to remove that corner at the seams and replace it entirely. Won't be cheap. When I had my 01 TJ, some landscaper asshole crammed a shitty cage trailer into my DS rear corner and left without leaving any info. Smashed the light and fucked the soft top up, pushed the corner in about 3-4 inches. Wasn't worth slide hammer repair, so they drilled out all the seam welds from the door jamb all the way around the back and removed the whole corner and then welded a new one back in. With the JK, they added that extra seam, so it shouldn't be as bad.
Good to know that the whole corner can be replaced. I was concerned if it was just pulled out it wouldn't match up to the tailgate normally. Now I just have to find a competent shop, which doesn't seem to be real easy.
 

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After my craptastic rocker cave-in that happened using body-mounted sliders, I've been warning people for years not to attach anything to the body of a JK. They are tin cans. I go frame-mount only for everything now. It's a sucky and expensive lesson to learn. You have some good options to fix that though. Good luck with it.
 
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