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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done several sets and seem to have found ziplocs with ice to be a pretty reasonable way to pull the heat away from the ball joints when welding in C-gussets.

Anyone else have other methods they recommend using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Short burn cycles. When I did mine I just put a cool damp cloth on them in between cycles and only burned for about 30 sec
30 seconds with a 220v is a pretty good amount of heat! The ice pack seemed to have cooled the last one I did down pretty quickly without thermal shocking/cracking anything.
 

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Is this a concern with stock "sealed" bj's only?
 

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Yes, short burns and cool
Water with a rag. Alternate sides on each burn top/bottom or left an right side of the axle if there are two you. One welding and one cooling like I did. No problems just take your time and be patient.
 

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Little off topic but along the same lines. Any precautions when it comes to the pumpkin? In regards to welding on a truss?
Clean it good and since its cast use a propane torch to preheated the weld area and sorounding area. Try to bring the heat down slowly over a few minutes to prevent any cracking.
 

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no need for the "ice" water, water is fine, a garden hose is fine, replacing the balljoints while you are there cause they probably need it anyway is better.


Little off topic but along the same lines. Any precautions when it comes to the pumpkin? In regards to welding on a truss?
get a set of seals just in case, I did not fuck mine but they are good to have around. I did not pre-heat or any of that shit, I just cleaned it well and welded it. It will either work fine or not :laughing:

I like to pre-load my axles when doing a truss but that is your own call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
And repeated cold starts are not good either. So your choice is either burn them in and replace the balljoints or try to save them and maybe end up with a slightly weaker weld.
Yep. I'll take my chances with the weld.
 

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Your best option if you have the ability it GTAW, tig/heliarc. Next would be 1/16th 6010, deeper penetration, smaller rod to move it faster. You do not need a gorilla weld, remember the first two digits are tensile strength, 7018 has a 70 ksi tensile strength. Run the smaller rod quickly and then wait until its cool to the touch to put your second pass on if you feel that you want more weld. If I need to make a 3/8" weld to reinforce the C then I need a bigger axle and C's. if you need some rods ill grab some from work and ship a pound to you if I need to. Hell I could send some 309 wire and you can have stainless welds to be different.
 

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Yes, short burns and cool
Water with a rag. Alternate sides on each burn top/bottom or left an right side of the axle if there are two you. One welding and one cooling like I did. No problems just take your time and be patient.
This, and the last two words are most important. 40,000 on the stock BJ with 37s and no problems. and yes, occasionally I drive it over parking curbs!
 
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