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Random Dude
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3,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #201 (Edited)
I have to post an update to the flanged pulley fookery, but have a few random info. scraps to share first.


Early this year, I swapped out my new-ish rear stock bump stops for a pair of SumoSprings SSR-401-47

100 20200112 - SumoSprings SSR-401-47.jpg
Reason = ride height and rear spring rate were about perfect but I was bottoming out more than I liked.
These did the trick. I was leery of the price but am happy with the purchase as long as they last a few years.


My old battery, a Die Hard Platinum, was a winner - got 8 years out of it.

200 20200208 - old batt.jpg
The Die Hard Platinum is discontinued, so new AGM is a North Star. Hope it's as good as its predecessor.

300 20200208 - batt clamp flipped.jpg
Didn't want to add the plastic 3/4" spacer under the battery, so I flipped the hold-down bock backwards and we're good to go.


Tore the fenders off to swap out the plug wires, so I took this photo to show the marker light wiring:

400 20200126 - marker light wiring.jpg
The trough the wires lay in is perfect - no pinch points, no need to restrain the wires.


Took the opportunity during that project to replace this hacktackular P/S reservoir vent line:

500 20200125 - hack resi vent.jpg
When I drilled out the nipple on the reservoir & tapped for that tube fitting, I adapted to the existing hose using random crap on hand (e.g., temporary-ish).
It's worked fine, but I've had the parts to unfuck this band-aid for . . . many, many years now :laughing:


Replacing the eclectic scraps collection is a couple push-lock 90s and a few feet of nylon air brake tubing:

600 20200125 - new resi vent.jpg
. . . the end of which, I dropped a few inches into an existing hole in the upper coil bucket.

700 20200125 - new resi vent end.jpg
This gets the drain outside the frame rails so a puking reservoir can't put oil on hot exhaust.
 

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Random Dude
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3,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
The P/S reservoir vent line is only restrained in 1 spot . . . twice :laughing: (green arrow below)

800 20200126 - vent elbow, flanged pulleys.jpg
Drilled a hole & used 2 zip ties to immobilize that push-lock 90 - no fear of the drain leg hopping out of the hole in the coil bucket.

The blue arrow points to a Gates 38012 flanged flat idler pulley - perfect replacement for the stock idler in that location. Commercially available, no drama, good bearing . . .

. . . and on that subject, the red arrow is pointing to a Raisman (~chineseco) universal replacement for a Toro 109-4076.

It's almost perfect :cwm13:

Flange OD clears the tensioner, pulley OD and width match stock, minor clearancing required on one side - not a problem.

Needed a washer added so the factory bearing shield could be used, still not a problem.

1000 20200126 - spacer for bearing guard.jpg

Installed this idler finally, and it made more noise than I liked but I ran it a few days to see if it would be OK.

After a few days, my initial fear about this idler was confirmed:

900 20200207 - shit pulley bearing.jpg

That bearing is a piece of shit :nono: That's after maybe 200 miles.

The problem isn't that this pulley is for a mower deck belt - the bearing would be equally shitty in that application.
With a decent bearing, this idler would be a winner for the JK crowd and the Toro/Exmark mower.

Just getting the belt number in this thread for easy reference - Dayco 5060885 / 6PK2250.

1100 20200126 - Dayco 5060885 6pk2250.jpg
It's a non-stock length needed for the PSC power steering pump pulley. Stock length would be a 5060825, 6PK2285.


SO . . . here's what I need:

1200 20200207 - Pulley Needs.jpg

If anyone knows of a 2.75" x 1" flanged flat idler pulley with a 17mm bearing ID (and a non-dogshit bearing), call it out and you're officially my fookin' hero :rockon:
In metric, that would be a 70mm x 26mm flanged flat idler pulley with (all the same shit :laughing: ).

I ordered a "Rotary # 12300 Idler Pulley for Exmark # 109-4076" off Amazon, but expect it will just be a rebranded version of the previous craptacular idler.

Any pulley gurus (or folks with stronger google-fu than mine) reading this? :dunno: :th_pray:
 

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Random Dude
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3,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #204 (Edited)
Did you ever find a suitable pulley?
Yeah . . . but kinda' "nah" . . . well, but . . . "yeah, kinda' " :dunno::laughing:

I got another "brand" of the exact same pulley off Amazon & the bearing is better (luck of the draw).
Pulley comes w/ pressed in standoff spacer that must be pressed out - I used my vise & the crap pictured.

20200301_155609 - Copy.jpg


Old tensioner + scrap of grenaded belt sander belt = purr-fesh-o-nall pulley clearancing machine.

20200301_172743 - Copy.jpg
Plan is to install this pulley & hopefully not have it growl like the first.
If it seems good to go, will run it see how it holds up, monitoring temp. & noise.
5 minutes to swap with hand tools so acceptable risk of non-catastrophic failure.


On the subject of parts with a life span, I actually used up a CB antenna :cwm13:

20200312_180043 - Copy.jpg

Totally happy w/ the USA-made Firestik 3' Firefly, which lasted 6+ years while almost constantly flexed / tied down. Replacing with same.



Antenna comes with vinyl end cap to cover the adjuster & seal it, but I add a saddle for a paracord hold-down.

20200312_180322 - Copy.jpg



At top of photo is the new antenna + end cap, below is what all I add to customize:

20200312_181043 - Copy.jpg
2 narrow rings of double-wall 3:1 heat shrink covered with sleeve of 2:1 single-wall tube makes my non-slip saddle to corral the hold-down cord.
After SWR calibration, 1 more layer of 2:1 shrink tube to seal it all up & keep branches from snagging the end cap.


I only use 3:1 shrink tubing w/ sealant for the 2 little rings, so they won't move on the antenna.
Everything else gets 2:1 tube w/o glue inside because glue makes disassembly . . . destructive.

20200312_182419 - Copy.jpg



New antenna modification 80% complete, just needs SWR calibration, push on end cap, & add final layer of shrink tube.

20200312_183141 - Copy.jpg


All that dicking around gives me this:

20200312_184508 - Copy.jpg
EDIT: to clarify, the final layer of heat shrink tubing is not installed in these photos

Make a bird's-head knot in a loop of paracord, slip over end of antenna, pull snug . . .

20200312_184444 - Copy.jpg


. . . and slip other end of paracord loop over shovel to hold antenna below roof line for driving in low-clearance parking structures.

20200312_184540 - Copy.jpg

Trying to get everything "perfect" to sell the Jeep in the near future, so I'm glad this failed now when I had time to overdo it again.
I can now say with confidence the antenna's good for another 6+ years :grinpimp:

 

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bloody-cool efforts & ideas, per usual from you ,sir!

I felt it worth mentioning the coincidental "same-time-fail" of my Diehard Platinum for 3.8l .
Granted , it sits in garage between monthly trailrides but last 2 times I went to turn mine over for it's weekly , there's not been enough juice to crank her. I thought I'd left the 12vconnector for the gmsr adapter plug in a 12v port was my drain / cause Had that disco'ed for past week, yet , when I went out ystrdy, it was again too low to crank.

Either I didn't charge it up enough or I gonna have to replace my last Diehard Platinum, too.
:shocked: and :bawling:
 

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Random Dude
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3,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #207
bloody-cool efforts & ideas, per usual from you ,sir!

I felt it worth mentioning the coincidental "same-time-fail" of my Diehard Platinum for 3.8l .
Granted , it sits in garage between monthly trailrides but last 2 times I went to turn mine over for it's weekly , there's not been enough juice to crank her. I thought I'd left the 12vconnector for the gmsr adapter plug in a 12v port was my drain / cause Had that disco'ed for past week, yet , when I went out ystrdy, it was again too low to crank.

Either I didn't charge it up enough or I gonna have to replace my last Diehard Platinum, too.
:shocked: and :bawling:
Thanks j3ff3ry!

If your 3.8 w/ old battery is stored in the garage, how about putting it on a Battery Tender?
They work great w/o cooking the battery. You might get another year or so out of it. :dunno:


Now you're going to sell the Jeep?
I'm seriously torn about it, but I believe I'll be selling it this year.
If I do, I hope someone appreciates the screaming deal they'll be getting :suicide:

But wait, it gets worse: before that, I plan to sell our '71 2WD F250 w/ 428CJ & built C6 :drama:

Rough plan = :


  • Sell '71 F250 & probably break even on it
  • Sell 2010 JKR (for over $30K less than I have into it :( )
  • Buy new JTR, which would be a huge compromise as both truck & wheeler
  • Hopefully not regret selling stuff I could never buy for anywhere near the same money :dunno:


If we had more room for vehicle storage, there's no way in Hell I would sell either of them. The Jeep, I've built like I was keeping it forever. If I'd paid shops to do the shit I've done to it, I'd probably have $60K into it. Premium parts & 100s if not 1000s of hours of custom mods. The truck, we drove all over N. California & looked at 10 others before buying. Each vehicle is precious to me far in excess of its market value.

But the reality is: our F250 is in storage offsite so it's like we don't have a truck at all. The Jeep . . . it's a crying shame to sell it, but I'm hoping to sell it to someone deserving to take the sting out of that. I really, really need regular access to a pickup, so replacing those two vehicles with a JTR is tempting.

201109245863 - Copy.jpg
I figure a JTR should be almost a foot shorter than these 2 parked end-to-end :laughing:

A Gladiator Rubicon will never be a 3/4 ton, never be smog-exempt, never have a 428CJ, never be a 100" wheelbase Jeep . . . there are lots of losses involved, so this weighs heavily on me. However, I believe I've identified all the compromises and am willing to accept them.

In a few years, we hope to move and have a bit of land. In that situation, I would barn-store the F250 & the JK. Unfortunately, we're not there yet, so hard decisions must be made. Therefore, detailed above are the mistakes I'm seriously considering :homersimpson:

[/First World Problems] :thefinger:
 

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...we hope to move and have a bit of land...


man, I'd go ahead and look into that now. Rates are really low and with the right lender you might be able to have it all now, buy the land and keep the Jeep and the truck.

We fell in love with an incredible 6800 sq foot designer built place on 25 acres with a 15 acre private lake last summer. It took us three months to work the deal and make everything line up, but I was amazed that the lender could make it happen.

I know there are likely other factors, but let me be the voice that says "Why compromise?"
 

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Random Dude
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Discussion Starter #210
Well, I believe I gave it enough of a chance, but I'm calling bullshit: this chick has a dong.
It was semi-tolerable-ish (only 50% fucked) 'til they did the same "upgrade" bullshit to PBB.

The way I see it, I didn't leave JKO - Pirate and JKO were taken away despite the members.
Not happy about hanging it up here, definitely not gloating, and I wish all of you the best.

For anyone with Pirate4x4 caliber of sensibilities (thick skin), I'll be on irate4x4.com.
For anyone who's easily offended - at all - be honest, just stay right here (please).

May still post here, but making no promises because the JKO I joined got murdered.
TL/DR: the changes to JKO and PBB made me . . . irate. Fuck this noise - I'm out.
 
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