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Discussion Starter #1
After installing extended front brake lines I see that the wheel sensor cable does not have much play in it. What have people done to reroute or extend this cable???
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I guess what I really want to know is at what lift height does the wheel sensor cable start to be a problem.
 

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With my Re lift, I was able to pull the sensor lines out of the brackets and just leave em to flop around a little...Although I left the lines in the brackets on the knuckles because they are so close to the rotating parts. Many off road trips w/ lots of full articulation and so far no problems w/ lines pulling tight and they haven't snagged on anything (yet...)
 

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I was able to spray some wd40 on them and slide the rubber gromment down the line. Start at the mount closest to the caliber and unhook it. Slide the gromment down (youll only take about 1" of slack out). Then on the second one take most that slack out ( again about 1-2")
By taking out the slack of about 2" you have all the slack you need. It seems to make plenty of room.
 

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I extended all my sensor cables by 6" to match my +6" brake hoses. I also extended my locker wiring and diff breather hoses.

The rear wires are just twisted pair and easy to extend. The fronts are encased in that rubber, so I just cut them up by the frame, stripped it back and added in 6" of regular wire and covered it with some flexible hose stuff, and loosely zip tied the wiring to the brake hoses.

I soldered all the joints and used heat shrink.

I found that when flexing hard with 4"+ of lift the cables were pulling tight, but many people wheel them like that with no problems.

Do you need to do it with 4-5" of lift? most probably not, but it's so easy that I think it's worth doing and it is one less thing to worry about on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I extended all my sensor cables by 6" to match my +6" brake hoses. I also extended my locker wiring and diff breather hoses.

The rear wires are just twisted pair and easy to extend. The fronts are encased in that rubber, so I just cut them up by the frame, stripped it back and added in 6" of regular wire and covered it with some flexible hose stuff, and loosely zip tied the wiring to the brake hoses.

I soldered all the joints and used heat shrink.

I found that when flexing hard with 4"+ of lift the cables were pulling tight, but many people wheel them like that with no problems.

Do you need to do it with 4-5" of lift? most probably not, but it's so easy that I think it's worth doing and it is one less thing to worry about on the trail.
You just spliced into the exsisting wire??? sounds easy enough. What would happen if you ripped one of the wires apart while wheeling??? Would the computer shut everything down???
 

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I also spliced in about 6" of additional wire front and rear. Its not all that hard to do, even with soldering all connections. After doing that the ABS line and the brake line are now basically the same length and I've got them zip tied together.





As for the computer shutting down....

When I was doing the job at some point I turned the key to on to check something. I turned it off and then went back to work. When I got in and drove away after finishing the job the ABS light came on for about 90 seconds but then extinguished. I've never seen it come back after that and I know for a fact that the ABS works after Fast Faisal tried to park his Tercel under my front bumper one day. :shaking:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is the front a single or double wire???
 

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Sensors

All We Did On Our JK Was Splice The Wires And Gave It A Little Excess.
Some Of The Probs You Could Face Not Doing This Our At The Very Least Is An ABS Light.
Also Since The Pcm Will No LOnger Reed The Wheel Speed It Could Affect Your Traction Control. Causing A Jerking Sensation.

Just MyTwo Cents:D
 
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