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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, today I installed a EVAP relocation kit. I haven't seen much talk of this particular kit here but, on JK-Forum, there is a guy (Brett Woods) that sells a kit for pretty cheap. You can email him at [email protected] for info and pricing,.

Basically it just moves it from underneath to up above the rear axel. Even at full compression the axel is still a few inches away from it. It frees up space to move the muffler down under the vehicle instead of in the rear and protects the evap canister from being damaged from rocks/sticks. It was a simple install with clear instructions. You only need basic hand tools and only took 1.5 hours and that was with time spent dicken around with other stuff.

I bought the kit sometime ago and din't install it for a while so I don't remember exactly what I paid but I remember it being not a whole lot more then buying the parts yourself but you also save the time of planning anything out or even taking measurments for that matter so it was well worth it!

Anyway, here is a couple pics, pretty straight forward. I considered doing a write up but his instructions are very clear and have pictures for each step.



It actually stays farther from the exhaust then I though it would:








Ooo! Look at all that spare room now! Time to relocate the muffler!

 

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yup i have the woods reolcator kit as well

its an amazing kit, for the price, i was very impressed at how complete and easy it was to do
 

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I have that one too, it was my first step in the muffler relocate (well, really a relocate and replace with a flowmaster). It was around 60 bucks shipped, I was very pleased with it, easy 1 hour install.
 

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anyone have any problems with the gas cap light coming on after this, only reason i ask is i seem to be having a re-occurance of this problem since i got the jeep new , i think the dealer has fixed right this time but im worrid if i move the evap they will now say its my fault the lights on
 

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anyone have any problems with the gas cap light coming on after this, only reason i ask is i seem to be having a re-occurance of this problem since i got the jeep new , i think the dealer has fixed right this time but im worrid if i move the evap they will now say its my fault the lights on
No gas cap light, but I did throw a code the next day. It was (I think) "small evap can leak". I went back over all the connections and tightened everything a bit, disconnected the battery to reset the code and it never came back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't throw any cels


however, if you are still worried about fighting that with the dealer I might suggest waiting a bit. If you still have problems and they noticed its moved I would be surprised if they didn't immediatly stop helping you on that particular problem.
 

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The real question should be, "Will they warranty your canister when (not if) you knock it off while on the trail?" When you move it, if you have problems here's a list of things to look at:

I finally got so pissed I put in a new canister, but not the white thing. Before I got that far I used some of that stretchy leak sealer tape http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/96825.aspx?feature=Product_11&kw=tape on all connections after replacing all hoses with 5/8 heater hose. I do know that I'll want to find 5/8 fuel line eventually and used hose clamps as well so I knew there were no leaks. Those clip on hoses are pretty much crap anyway.

If that doesn't cure it go onto the canister itself.

1. When you took off the white part (technically called the white thingy with the electrical connection,) did you examine it carefully for cracks? POR15 is immune to gas fumes and will seal any cracks in it like nobody's business. i understand JB Weld works well too.

2. When you put it on the new canister, did you check that green (sometimes black) gasket carefully to make sure you had a good seal? (I even used a little silicone on it.)

3. When you put the white thingy with the electrical connection back on, did you make certain to install it the same way it came off? (So the electrical connector is sitting in between the two hose connections.)

4. If you relocated it, did you put it back in right side up? (With the three plastic tabs pointing up?)

5. Did you throw in a boatload of silicone dielectric into the electrical plug before hooking it back up?

6. Did you disconnect your battery while doing all this? One fellow advised me to turn the ignition switch to on after disconnecting the battery, then turning it off before reconnecting. I don't see what difference that would make, but what the heck, it's an easy thing to do. I found thirty seconds was long enough to erase those two codes. Longer than that didn't hurt anything.

I think the issue I struggled with was that I reinstalled mine upside down. Go figure. I haven't had those warning lights come back on since doing all of the above. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself.) By now it's been thousands of miles.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sounds like part of the difference (besides mounting it upside down :D) is it looks like you removed the white part. Did you remove it for clearence? I didn't remove that part and just worked around it. I always try to diasemble emisions and sensor parts as little as possible to prevent issues. I only replaced the hoses and unpluged the wires.

I don't know how the evap canister "senses" a leak but I wonder if it is just more oxegen getting inside the canister while apart that trips the CEL. Shouldn't be more then hard reseting the ECU to clear the code if that is all it was. I would also recomend clearing the codes with an OBDII scanner. Even though the light is off, the code is still there and may cause issues from the dealer if it comes up during a diffenent issue.

I also did not disconnect the battery, probably a good idea though. The part about turning the key while disconnected is to discharge and help hard reset the ECU. Kinda like holding down the power button on a cell phone while the battery is off to reset it.
 

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I took off the white part when I replaced the canister. The dealer was wanting $80 an hour to fix something I'd screwed up myself. I was so tired of the light I just went for the old shotgun fix. After replacing all that (it did come in way under $80) I still think it was some idiot placing the canister upside down during the relocate. :emb: Hey, it did make sense at the time.

I was just thinking of BeerMonkey's post and maybe some yahoo screwed up his gasket at the factory.

As far as the sensor goes, there may also be a pressure test involved as well since it's a closed system. Don't know for sure though.

I checked the system with my scanner to remove the 2 codes when I'd finished and it seems like the battery disconnect/key thing wiped them out of the system.

Cheers!
 

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I took off the white part when I replaced the canister. The dealer was wanting $80 an hour to fix something I'd screwed up myself. I was so tired of the light I just went for the old shotgun fix. After replacing all that (it did come in way under $80) I still think it was some idiot placing the canister upside down during the relocate. :emb: Hey, it did make sense at the time.

I was just thinking of BeerMonkey's post and maybe some yahoo screwed up his gasket at the factory.

As far as the sensor goes, there may also be a pressure test involved as well since it's a closed system. Don't know for sure though.

I checked the system with my scanner to remove the 2 codes when I'd finished and it seems like the battery disconnect/key thing wiped them out of the system.

Cheers!
My JK was the actual poser shot of the muffler relocated , I've got all , his inventions from the steering stabilizer relocation bracket, evap relocation, muffler relocation,rear gate stabilizer, to the storage tub MOD,

Brett is a man of many idea's @ a reasonable price mod's on the JK, hopefully he can become a reason for people to understanding relocation to save un expected damage to their JK, check out his idea's.:idea:
 

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Brett is sharp, I like his ideas. He's a progressive thinker, just the type we need to help out the JK's. Is he a member of this board?
 

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Getting hounded on another board to come join up over here, so I did. I just went and signed up as a sponsor.

I do know that I'll want to find 5/8 fuel line eventually and used hose clamps as well so I knew there were no leaks.
If that doesn't cure it go onto the canister itself.

1. When you took off the white part (technically called the white thingy with the electrical connection,) did you examine it carefully for cracks? POR15 is immune to gas fumes and will seal any cracks in it like nobody's business. i understand JB Weld works well too.

I think the issue I struggled with was that I reinstalled mine upside down. Go figure. I haven't had those warning lights come back on since doing all of the above. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself.) By now it's been thousands of miles.

Good luck!
I've got 5/8" fuel line. I can sell it for a couple bucks a foot, plus shipping. PM me know if you need any.

I've also got a couple of spare the white thingys. $14 plus shipping.

part of the sensor, inside the white thingy is held down by gravity. So you are correct. Problems start, if the EC is installed upside down.

As far as the sensor goes, there may also be a pressure test involved as well since it's a closed system. Don't know for sure though.

I checked the system with my scanner to remove the 2 codes when I'd finished and it seems like the battery disconnect/key thing wiped them out of the system.

Cheers!
I'm fairly sure that there is a pressure test involved. My understanding is the code (or one of the codes) that gets kicked off, is a loose gas cap code. Is this what your scanner indicated?

Thanks for the kind words and I'm looking forward to becoming part of this JK community.
 

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LOL, speak of the devil. Glad you made it over. Welcome to the board!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey, welcome over Brett. Good to see you here. This is a great forum I think you will enjoy it here.

BTW, thanks for the relocation kit! Worked great!
 

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What up guys. Installing kit this weekend. Got booted off that other site for some stupid reason so I will chime in here when I can. I installed woods steering stabilizer bracket and it was cake. Moved that stablizer out of the way for sure. Looking forward to the install this weekend.
 

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What up guys. Installing kit this weekend. Got booted off that other site for some stupid reason so I will chime in here when I can. I installed woods steering stabilizer bracket and it was cake. Moved that stablizer out of the way for sure. Looking forward to the install this weekend.
Hey Yman,

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the props.

So everybody knows, Yman is one of my dealers. I don't know that he's allowed to post that he sells JK stuff, but I don't see why I wouldn't be able to. He's just being considerate in not posting that he's in the Jeep business. So if you need good Jeep stuff in the Palm Springs area, he can take care of you. If I'm out of line by posting this, then please let me know.
 

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Don't be getting me in trouble now. I'm going to try and be a sponsor here at this site. The most this install has taken is 2 hours and is something every jk owner should do if you wheel in rocks. Great kit.
 

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Don't be getting me in trouble now. I'm going to try and be a sponsor here at this site. The most this install has taken is 2 hours and is something every jk owner should do if you wheel in rocks. Great kit.
Hey now, this is where all the bad boyz end up. So if your not at least close to getting in trouble, then you're not trying hard enough.:mr-t:
 
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