Not sure what Jeep were thinking of when they placed the EVAP can on the JK in such a rock strike location, but I decided to move it and it was very simple to do.
It is now mounted directly below the front of the trunk area.
The factory EVAP can bracket is offset, so I first leveled it out so both ends were level. I then drilled three holes through the trunk floor and bolted it down, using some stainless fender washers and a good helping of silicone to seal the holes.
The electrical lead simply needed re-routing and reaches fine.
After messing about with the factory hoses for a while, I decided to do away with much of them and just use some rubber hose. At first I was going to use some 5/8" ID heater hose, but decided as it was close to the exhaust to use some marine type A1 fuel hose, which is fire retardant and unlike heater hose, also designed for gasoline.
I could have got away with single pieces, but wanted to keep the hoses as far as possible from the exhaust, so I used some brass 90° elbows. I finished it off with some stainless steel hose clamps, just to keep everything in place.
It looks a little cluttered with all the 90° elbows and clamps, and as I said you could do it without the elbows, and most probably without the clamps. But this way the hoses are further from the exhaust, and the clamps keep everything secure.
I thought about the Kilby relocation kit, but figured where I was going to mount it, there would be very little chance of it ever getting hit by rock, maybe a stray branch, but still very unlikely. There's nothing wrong with the Kilby solution at all, and it definitely adds protection as well as relocates the EVAP can, and looks very easy to install.
Total cost was less than $20 and took about 90 minutes.
I've had it like this for 8 months or so and no problems at all so far.
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It is now mounted directly below the front of the trunk area.
The factory EVAP can bracket is offset, so I first leveled it out so both ends were level. I then drilled three holes through the trunk floor and bolted it down, using some stainless fender washers and a good helping of silicone to seal the holes.
The electrical lead simply needed re-routing and reaches fine.
After messing about with the factory hoses for a while, I decided to do away with much of them and just use some rubber hose. At first I was going to use some 5/8" ID heater hose, but decided as it was close to the exhaust to use some marine type A1 fuel hose, which is fire retardant and unlike heater hose, also designed for gasoline.
I could have got away with single pieces, but wanted to keep the hoses as far as possible from the exhaust, so I used some brass 90° elbows. I finished it off with some stainless steel hose clamps, just to keep everything in place.
It looks a little cluttered with all the 90° elbows and clamps, and as I said you could do it without the elbows, and most probably without the clamps. But this way the hoses are further from the exhaust, and the clamps keep everything secure.
I thought about the Kilby relocation kit, but figured where I was going to mount it, there would be very little chance of it ever getting hit by rock, maybe a stray branch, but still very unlikely. There's nothing wrong with the Kilby solution at all, and it definitely adds protection as well as relocates the EVAP can, and looks very easy to install.
Total cost was less than $20 and took about 90 minutes.
I've had it like this for 8 months or so and no problems at all so far.
