Locking hubs lock and unlock the hub. They allow you to disconnect the hub and free spin. They do not provide extra traction.
Correct, but you usually only have locking hubs on the front, so when the t-case is in 2WD, the front diff and driveshaft are not turning.So what you are saying is if you "unlock" all 4 hubs. And go to drive you would go nowhere? Your axles would spin and not turn the wheel?
If you unlock the hubs, then the R&P will stop turning when you are 2WD. This may (or may not): improve your mpg, result in less wear on the front drive train, and be quieter. There is also the "fuse" theory, that the hub will be the first thing to break and is easier to fix on the trail.When exactly would you want to "unlock" the front hubs?
I would say your "road trip" was the reason for higher mpg. Everyone I know of that did the conversion on their TJ's didn't see any increase in mpg's.I put the front FWHs on my TJ not long after I got it, as I had a long road trip to do (2000 miles) I did get around 3 miles extra to the gallon and with our gas prices over here every little helps. The only thing about the Solid conversion is it changes the stud pattern to 5 on 5.5
Thanks for answering these probably silly questions PhilD but I think I get it now........If you unlock the hubs, then the R&P will stop turning when you are 2WD. This may (or may not): improve your mpg, result in less wear on the front drive train, and be quieter. There is also the "fuse" theory, that the hub will be the first thing to break and is easier to fix on the trail.
All that said, I'm not rushing out to put in some locking hubs anytime soon.
No qyestion is silly, only the one that isn't askedThanks for answering these probably silly questions PhilD but I think I get it now........
You got itSo when I am in 2WD now on my JK, my front Ring & Pinion ARE moving? And the only thing that is making them turn is the movement of the wheel on the road? And by unlocking the hub AT the wheel it just disengages the axle back to the R&P?