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I spent Saturday installing 5:13s in my rear Rubi D44. I did not have time to finish the front(or even start it). So I can't put it in 4Lo to check the operation of the locker.

I am pretty sure that it works fine thought based on what I saw in the differential and the diagram above.

I just wanted to add some notes to this thread since I have actually had my hands inside one of these.

The "Sensor" does NOT need to be removed to remove/replace the carrier/locker. It slides in and our freely without contacting this sensor. I imagine that shops are taking the sensor out first and then trying to put it back in last(and trying to make it ride on the ring instead of behind it).

It is hard to see it behind the locker but it sits in (according to the above diagram) the perfect spot without ever having to touch it during the process.


Now the stupid little plug for the locker is a whole different story, not a big deal, but still tricky to get in and out.

The 5:13s do seem to drive nice, just need to find the time to do the front now so I can use 4x4.
 

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Well bless my soul. I just did a D44 front axle conversion to the Dynatrac ProRock 44. Seemingly a simple procedure of pull the guts from one and install in another.

Mostly true except the landscape is dotted with a few 'gotcha's' here and there. Got it all buttoned up and when to test drive...WHOAA what is this??

Well I would bet $ on this thread as being correct...EXACT same issues. LUCKY for me my client is a member in good standing of the fine board and he turned me on to this thread.

I will skip the matchstick procedure and do it right, plus its hard to bill for 'matchsticks' and would take some 'splainin' as I hand him the bill.

That said in reviewing the thread I am missing something. I installed the 'pin' after I installed the pinion assembly. Then I set the carrier in, checked the clearance by hand and gage to insure the ring gear would turn freely. I torqued it to 80 lbs on the straps and buttoned it up.

If I read this correctly, I need to pull the axles and carrier. But when I pull the carrier then all I have it the pin sticking out from the side of the axle housing. There is nothing there to 'hook' it on to? Setting the carrier back in prohibits getting at the pin to slide it over anything or so it seems.

I have access to the Jeep install instructions at my local Jeep house as I buy a lot of TJ/JK parts down there. But if you can save me a trip and further shine some light on this for me I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks...;)
 

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That's not unsual either, the shaft can easily get bent causing the plunger to no longer move.

You can drive it without the senor in (as long as you blank the hole with a bolt (or cut the end off the broken sensor).
The oil pan drain plug is the exact size you need to plug it.
 

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That said in reviewing the thread I am missing something. I installed the 'pin' after I installed the pinion assembly. Then I set the carrier in, checked the clearance by hand and gage to insure the ring gear would turn freely. I torqued it to 80 lbs on the straps and buttoned it up.
I don't ee the sensor in your pic, so presume it was added after. Was the end of the sensor over the plate on the side gear? It's possible to install the carrier and not get the end of the sensor hooked over the plate, especially if the carrier went in at a slight angle.

Pull the diff cover and take a look at the end of the senor and make sure it is over the plate on the side gear, you may need to use a flash light to see it.

If it is not, then pull the shafts, pull the carrier out a little and make sure then end of the senor gets hooked over the side gear plate, then bolt it all back up.
 

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I don't ee the sensor in your pic, so presume it was added after. Was the end of the sensor over the plate on the side gear? It's possible to install the carrier and not get the end of the sensor hooked over the plate, especially if the carrier went in at a slight angle.

Pull the diff cover and take a look at the end of the senor and make sure it is over the plate on the side gear, you may need to use a flash light to see it.

If it is not, then pull the shafts, pull the carrier out a little and make sure then end of the senor gets hooked over the side gear plate, then bolt it all back up.
Phil, Gotcha...and thank you for your response. ;)

Yes, I took the pic before I slid the pin it...suprised I did not have a pic of the pin installed??? I am usually good on that stuff and I do a write up on most work I do if nothing else just to keep my customers appraised of what is being done and the progress I am making as I build it out.

Speaking of which, I wonder if any here would be interested in the conversion from OEM D44 front axle to the the Dynatrac ProRock 44 housing. I noted there was a write up on here of a major beef up w/tubes and truss on the OEM D44 in the tech section. IMO this is a cleaner and much stronger setup, not to say the other is poor by any means.

I will tackle this using your approach and post the results.

I noticed you are in Texas...Where? I am from SA, Dallas and Ft Worth.
 

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Are you telling me the sensor cannot be replaced without pulling the carrier?
You can actually install them with the diff in place, but it's kind of a bodge. Grind the first 2 or 3 threads off the sensor, use a match to fully extend it. With the diff cover off pass it through the mounting hole, and use a long flat bladed screw driver to help it over the edge of the plate on the side gear. Recover the piece of match, and bolt it all back up and add the diff fluid. Not a perfect solution but it will get the job done.

If you have the time and inclination, just pull the diff and do it properly.
 

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I'm having 5:13 put in my 2 dr ruby jeep also (35",4"lift, 1" body) and they are having the same problem with my e-locker. It's staying engaged and will not disengage (good info, thanks). Do you like the 5:13 you installed?
 
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