e-locker reinstallation issues

11914 Views 30 Replies 11 Participants Last post by cduggan, Dec 9, 2010

tgrt

Discussion Starter · Jul 9, 2008

I currently have my JK in getting the gears upgraded to 5.13s. The shop is pretty much done, but is having problems with getting the e-lockers back in. Specifically, they stay engaged. Apparently, a plunger needs to be set to a specific depth, but the specifics are not clear to me.

The installer has access to the Chrysler web connection application, so they're trying to find out information on proper setup. However, I thought I'd pose the question here and see if anyone knew anything more concrete. The factory service manual is crap and doesn't describe the process in much detail.

Until this is fixed I don't have my JK!

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PhilD

· #2 · Jul 10, 2008

The locker sensor (plunger) needs to be behind the plate on the side gear, ie: the plunger needs to be installed before the diff, and when the diff is installed they need to make sure the plunger is hooked over the plate. If you don't one of two things will happen, a/ it will lock correctly but the dash light will just flash as it doesn't know it's locked, or b/ the plunger may exert enough pressure on the side gear plate to engage the locker and it will be locked all the time.

PhilD

· #3 · Jul 10, 2008

tgrt said:
Specifically, they stay engaged. Apparently, a plunger needs to be set to a specific depth, but the specifics are not clear to me.

There is no specific depth, it just needs to be installed correctly. It definitely sounds like the plunger is pushing against the side gear plate and causing the locker to lock. It needs to be over the plate and is pulled out by the plate when the locker engages to tell the system it is locked. This is a common mistake.

Here's a quick diagram I did that shows the correct position of the plunger:

See less See more

PhilD

· #4 · Jul 10, 2008

BTW They will need to pull the diff to get the sensor plunger in the correct position. You can grind off a couple of threads of the sensor, use a match to hold it open, and with a little messing about get it over the plate with the diff in place, but seeing as it is their mistake I'd get them to do it properly and pull the diff out.

Give them the diagram above and explain that the plunger hooks over the side gear plate. I'm betting they have it so it is pushing against the side gear plate and causing the locker to lock.

A simple test is to remove the sensors and I'm betting your lockers will disengage.

tgrt

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 10, 2008

Thanks for the information. It sounds exactly what they just explained they figured out a few hours ago. It's still flashing, they believe because a code was thrown, and are trying to clear it. They've tested the lockers and they're working correctly (engaging and disengaging).

tgrt

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 10, 2008

Apparently, they damaged the sensor in the process. They're supposed to have one in the morning. Pray for me that I have my Jeep for the weekend!

tgrt

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 10, 2008

PhilD said:
There is no specific depth, it just needs to be installed correctly. It definitely sounds like the plunger is pushing against the side gear plate and causing the locker to lock. It needs to be over the plate and is pulled out by the plate when the locker engages to tell the system it is locked. This is a common mistake...

It's information like this that makes this forum great!

Bigjerm

· #8 · Jul 10, 2008

you going on a ride this weekend? :grinpimp:

:grinpimp:

tgrt

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 10, 2008

Not with the break-in. Just want to enjoy the top down. I'm so busy during the week that the weekend is pretty much the only time I get to drive it.

PhilD

· #10 · Jul 11, 2008

tgrt said:
Apparently, they damaged the sensor in the process.

That's not unsual either, the shaft can easily get bent causing the plunger to no longer move.

They're supposed to have one in the morning. Pray for me that I have my Jeep for the weekend!

You can drive it without the senor in (as long as you blank the hole with a bolt (or cut the end off the broken sensor).

PhilD

· #11 · Jul 11, 2008

tgrt said:
It's still flashing, they believe because a code was thrown, and are trying to clear it.

It's not a code, it's becaise the senor isn't working (or they removed it) and the system does not know the locker is engaged. It won't do any harm.

tgrt

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jul 11, 2008

PhilD said:
That's not unsual either, the shaft can easily get bent causing the plunger to no longer move.

You can drive it without the senor in (as long as you blank the hole with a bolt (or cut the end off the broken sensor).

I was wondering that too, but I don't really want to pay for the gas to bring her back either. That would be a trip there with the Explorer, back with both, and then back to the shop on Monday. By my estimates would cost $24 more in gas. Yeah, I know I'm cheap, but that's precious fun money that would be down the tubes.

So if you don't have the sensor the only complication is that the locker lights continually blink on the dash and button (I haven't seen it personally yet)? It doesn't throw the computer in a tissy fit and go into limp mode or anything?

PhilD

· #13 · Jul 11, 2008

tgrt said:
So if you don't have the sensor the only complication is that the locker lights continually blink on the dash and button (I haven't seen it personally yet)? It doesn't throw the computer in a tissy fit and go into limp mode or anything?

Yup, the locker lights just flash, no codes. Do make sure you use something to blank off the hole in the diff though.

jeepik

· #14 · Jul 12, 2008

anyone have a prt number for the plunger???

i want to tackle replacing it myelf, i hate taking mine to the dealership and having to explain myself and wait a week for something i can do myself

i should need a diff spreader to take the carrier out i hope

PhilD

· #15 · Jul 13, 2008

jeepik said:
anyone have a prt number for the plunger???

68003569AA

You can actually install them with the diff in place, but it's kind of a bodge. Grind the first 2 or 3 threads off the sensor, use a match to fully extend it. With the diff cover off pass it through the mounting hole, and use a long flat bladed screw driver to help it over the edge of the plate on the side gear. Recover the piece of match, and bolt it all back up and add the diff fluid. Not a perfect solution but it will get the job done.

If you have the time and inclination, just pull the diff and do it properly.

walker

· #16 · Nov 22, 2008

Bump to the top, this thread just cured a big locker headache! :beer:

:beer:

igivup

· #17 · Mar 21, 2009

just had the same thing done to mine but my lockers dont engage and the dash lites flash same type of fix?

PhilD

· #18 · Mar 21, 2009

Are you sure the lockers are not engaging? Obviously if the sensors are not installed correctly then the lights won't work properly, but the lockers could still be working.

You need to verify if the lockers are working or not.

If they are then the first thing I'd do is pull a diff cover off and shine a flash light right to where the sensor plunger is and see if it is in the correct position. If not they need to remove the diffs and set them up correctly.

igivup

· #19 · Mar 22, 2009

PhilD said:
Are you sure the lockers are not engaging? Obviously if the sensors are not installed correctly then the lights won't work properly, but the lockers could still be working.

You need to verify if the lockers are working or not.

If they are then the first thing I'd do is pull a diff cover off and shine a flash light right to where the sensor plunger is and see if it is in the correct position. If not they need to remove the diffs and set them up correctly.

ya i talked to them . their gonna look at em this week. i know that they were not working yet the limited slip was and dash lites just a steady flash

issed:

PhilD

· #20 · Mar 22, 2009

igivup said:
i know that they were not working yet the limited slip was

What limited slip? Do you have aftermarket lockers? there is no limited slip on Rubicon axles.

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