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Discussion Starter #1
I finally finished installing my dual battery setup. After hours and hours of messing with it, I figured some pictures were in order. I didn't take near enough pictures but these should give you the general idea. I started with the new dual battery tray from Benchmark Designs and made a couple minor changes. The first was to add a "heat shield" between the inner battery and the engine. This is just a thin piece of aluminium. It also serves as a new place to secure the heater hoses.



From there we jump to the finished setup. Here are two Odyssey PC1500 batteries. One an Oddyssey and the other is a Sears Diehard Platinum P1 (which is just a re-badged Odyssey). This setup includes a Hellroaring Isolator/Combiner, two 200 amp "catastrophe" fuses, and a positive lead winch solenoid.



Here is another shot of the finished setup.



I added switches for the Hellroaring Isolator/Combiner and for the winch solenoid (and some for driving lights, etc) in the dash panel. I setup the batteries in the "backup battery" mode suggested by Hellroaring. In this mode the second battery is not connected except for automatically being kept charged. The toggle switch has three positions. In the center is the default and this just keeps the battery charged. In the down position the two batteries are connected together and both supply power (good for winching or if the main battery fails). In the up position the system is "off" and the backup battery is fully disconnected.



I thought it might be nice to kinda explain what the various components are...



Now I hope to never be stuck AGAIN with a dead JK... :shaking:
 

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Very neat and clean work, I'm doing almost the same but using perfectswitch as battery isolator (it's a solid state electronic auto switch).. Great idea about the heat shield.:beer:
 

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Very nice writeups guys!

For anyone wondering, the kit is designed around yellow top Optimas. Odyssey batteries are great, but a bit bigger and require more work to fit in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
... I'm working on a bracket for the purge solenoid. I see your locker relays needed to be relocated also.
I made a simple bracket for the purge solenoid. You can kinda see it in the pictures. It is just a length of aluminum, 1 inch wide by 1/8 inch thick, with a short 90 degree bend at the bottom. The bend goes under the new tray and the bolt for the vertical support holds it in place. I can post a picture of it tonight. I also replace the hard plastic lines to the purge solenoid with rubber hoses.

I could not decide where to move the locker relays so I just unwrapped the wire loom containing the relay wires the moved the point where the wires exited the loom forward 3 or 4 inches (and then re-wrapped the loom). This provided enough slack in the relay wires to just wire tie them where you see in the pictures. I was/am planning on just leaving them there.

I also moved the point where the wire run that is normally on the inside of the battery tray exits the main wire loom behind the batteries. All of the wires in this run go to the driver side. So moving the exit point closer to the engine makes it much easier to insert/remove the battery and it keeps those wires off the middle of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is the bracket for the purge solenoid. It mounts vertically between the inside battery and the TIPM using the same bolt that attached the vertical support on the new battery tray. After mounting the bracket, I twisted it slightly to move the purge solenoid away from the battery.

 

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I love my hellroaring system in my Amigo, I am pulling it out to go in my JK.
I am doing a simmilar setup but with a twist :D you will find it interesting.
 

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Nice work, looks good. How do you get to the plugs on that side now? Take all that stuff back off?
 

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The hardest one to get to is the back one. You pretty much have to pull the inner battery to get enough room to work on it. Nothing abnormal for a mechanic, I've worked on lots of vehicles where you have to pull tons of stuff off, just to get to the spark plugs, sometimes including the front clip of the vehicles and having to roll the engine to get to them. Just a little more work, but the trade off is worth it.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is the bracket for the purge solenoid. It mounts vertically between the inside battery and the TIPM using the same bolt that attached the vertical support on the new battery tray. After mounting the bracket, I twisted it slightly to move the purge solenoid away from the battery.
Oh, and I forgot to say I lengthened the wires to the purge solenoid connector. I added like 6 or 8 inches to the two wires and routed them under the TIPM.
 

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JDRogers,
This is a nice install. I want to do something similar in my JK except I may run the batteries in parallel to get more current capacity for long winch pulls.

I was wondering what the current rating of your winch solenoid is? What is the duty cycle? I would like to get one myself.

Great write up. :beer:
 

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JDRogers,
This is a nice install. I want to do something similar in my JK except I may run the batteries in parallel to get more current capacity for long winch pulls.
These are all run in parallel, if they were run in series they'd put out somewhere around 27 volts. The JK would not like that!
Maybe you mean without isolation?
 

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JDRogers,
This is a nice install. I want to do something similar in my JK except I may run the batteries in parallel to get more current capacity for long winch pulls.
you can do that, but you wouldn't have the advantage of being able to keep one of your batteries isolated - meaning that it would be possible to drain both batteries at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
JDRogers,
This is a nice install. I want to do something similar in my JK except I may run the batteries in parallel to get more current capacity for long winch pulls.

I was wondering what the current rating of your winch solenoid is? What is the duty cycle? I would like to get one myself.

Great write up. :beer:
As stated above they are in parallel. I can flip the isolator/combiner switch to the "on" position to combine both batteries for winching. Each battery then provides 1/2 of the power. Doing this provides "more" power for winching since reducing the amperage draw increases the power available from the battery in a non-linear manor (i.e. two batteries, each providing half the power runs more than twice as long). However doing this and running the batteries down will not leave a reserve for starting (if the engine were to die).

My main purpose is to have a reserve battery to power the JK if the main battery dies. This happened a few months ago with the stock battery but luckily I was close to home and I was able to go get a replacement battery. If I had been out in the desert 50 miles from nowhere it would have been a bummer.

The winch solenoid is a continuous duty 200 amp rated model with a 600 amp surge rating. This rating is actually much higher the solenoid provided in the Warn winch disconnect kit.
 

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Thanks,

I am planning on adding a second battery and although I didn't follow all the tech description, my weakness, You detail description will help me as I learn more before making the mod. Thanks, Spiritree
 

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hey would you mind showing or have a link to the fuses you are using? I was just going to run a fusable link but if you are running a better idea I may go that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, that is the fuse holder I am using. It is the FMG-111 Bussman AMG fuse Holder. But I got them here:

http://www.keefeperformance.com/high_amp_fuses.html

Since they are about 1/2 the price here. And they shipped very fast at a very reasonable rate.

Keep in mind one of the main reasons to use the fuse holder instead of a fusible link is to gain the very useful binding post for all of the leads you will be attaching. And the fuse allows you to be able to bypass it if it fails when out on the trail.
 
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