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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a dual battery system in my 08 jk rubi. The problem I have is the main battery is good and always charged but the reserved battery always drains dead. I have 2 sets of lights, via air onboard, and a warn 9.0 rc winch hooked up to the reserved battery and this will be my 3rd cyclinoid that has been fried. Any ideas on why this is happening
 

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What battery kit?

Might be a grazed wire touching chassis somewhere, poor ground.

Had the same situation once.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its a rugged ridge dual battery tray and wired it myself. Will check all wires and double check the ground thnkx
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Used the basic one from the kit. That fried bought a heavy duty one with a red rubber boot on it that one fried. Now I have a warn one and it fried. Will half to check all the wires again when I get a chance
 

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Used the basic one from the kit. That fried bought a heavy duty one with a red rubber boot on it that one fried. Now I have a warn one and it fried. Will half to check all the wires again when I get a chance
Cool, when you have a chance post a pic of your set up..
 

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Like others have said, post some pictures of your wiring setup and we can help. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cool, when you have a chance post a pic of your set up..
Here are some pics sorry about the wiring mess but I trying to figure it out



So any ways in the pic I have a jumper wire I just put it on to charge dead battery. So from main battery I have a wire going from the positive to the cyclinoid then the other side of the cyclionide the wire goes to the aux battery the cycloinde has power to it and is grounded good. So I took it down to the local 4x4 shop they said its all hooked up right and I got them to check all the wires. They are all good. I think I got to put a isoliator in
 

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I don't want to come too blunt, and I hope you take constructive criticism well.

That shit is a jungle. Whatever person told you that everything is fine was lying to just to have you drive away because they didn't want to deal with problem.

All right man, aside from me, I pretty sure others will chime in. I'm no expert but I'm going off when I installed my benchmark stage 3 kit and others write ups.

The things I don't see:

1. I dont see the Isolator between the + post, you have both +'s connected straight together which is a no no.
2. I don't the same Ga. Wiring running from the - post, then AUX battery - post to chassis ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
No problems.
The + to + wire is just a temp.
Don't have a isolator that's what I'm going to install instead of a cyclionde
And I know is a jungle I have been workin to fix the problem then will fix the rat nest
The cylionide that is + to + on both batterys is in the bottom picture
Thanks for the insite

So if I put a 120v battery isolator in then I won't need the cylionde between the 2 batterys
I just hook one battery to one side the other battery to the other side and the alternater is hooked up to the center and this should solve everything
 

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No problems.
The + to + wire is just a temp.
Don't have a isolator that's what I'm going to install instead of a cyclionde
And I know is a jungle I have been workin to fix the problem then will fix the rat nest
The cylionide that is + to + on both batterys is in the bottom picture
Thanks for the insite

So if I put a 120v battery isolator in then I won't need the cylionde between the 2 batterys
I just hook one battery to one side the other battery to the other side and the alternater is hooked up to the center and this should solve everything
Until you get the isolator, if it were me, I would disconnect anything combining both batteries, store you AUX battery to the side and hook up a battery charger/conditioner to salvage the AUX battery.

There are 3 electrical Guru's here, that will answer any question that cannot, and answer promptly with full support.

1. John from Benchmark designs - dual battery wiring kit.
2. Darren from 12voltguy.com - dual battery wiring kits, and custom wiring panels
3. John from sPOD - electrical wiring management system.

I an very fortunate to have a product from each, i can tell you their products excess my needs
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the help will do that will get the isolater tomorrow and go from their
 

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Isolator!!

Just my 2cents.... From what I gather from pics and description; You (hopefully) have the solenoid powered by a fused "ignition-on" source coming from the TIPM. If so; then whenever the Jeep is ON; the solenoid will be energized and engaged. Effectively joining the two batts together. Two potential problems here. One... the alternator will constantly be trying to charge both batts = hard on the alternator. Two... the solenoid must be rated for "constant duty cycle"; or it will burn up in time.
It sounds like, after a new solenoid install, all is OK for a while; and the solenoid burns up. The beauty of the "smart isolator" is that it only engages when one of the batts drops below a predetermined level. Thereby, saving wear on the alternator. Benchmark-design's solenoid is rated for constant duty even though it never works in that situation.
Additionally, the solenoid will get hot when it's engaged. Locating it above the batts will get it away from the exhaust headers; where it is currently being radiated with intense heat. The poor thing never gets to cool down!
So... Replace with "smart isolator"; and move solenoid (isolator assembly) to cooler location. Get some type of volt meter gauge to monitor your batt condition regularly. So far (1yr) my Benchmark-designs stage 3 dual batt system is working flawlessly. Thanks, John
 
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