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Discussion Starter #1
Just noticed while changing my oil today that my front driveshaft at the transfer case CV joint, there was a scant amount of grease thrown about in a circular pattern. Not much, but enough to get my worried that I need a new front DS already....only at 28K, 2.5 inch lift/35s. Had the lift since June, 35s went on about 3 or 4 months ago.

Now how long do I have until it is shot? I assume that this is sure sign of eventual failure...or am I wrong about that?

Next question, when people go with aftermarket DS, does the rear typically take priority considering it is rear wheel drive? If it is the case that I need a new front shaft Ill probably just save for a Woods and call it a day..

Thanks
 

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All depends on how long it has been doing it and how you drive, but I would order a new one ASAP. Called Woods as soon as mine did that.
 

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Well I've been through 3 stock drive shafts. Anywhere from 20-400 miles from my experience depending on your driving. I would pull it now and order a new one. Not woods tho. Unless you want it to look like mine after 6 months


sent using the dark side of the force
Did you sand it befor you installed it ? Man my woods didn't look like that after 30k...
 

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I agree^^^^ WTF? Mine doesnt look anything like that!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so what should I be out the look out for? What kinda noises, etc etc....
 

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Just a few specs of grease is not a big deal, when it tears the boot you need to be concerned. You can also repack the grease in the CV joints of the stock shaft [I did a full write-up on that].

You will certainly get vibrations before a complete failure. Unfortunately with how many vibes and wiggles you get with a lifted JK at mud terrains, it's not always obvious.

My shaft squeaked out grease when I first put a budget boost on it....about 40,000 miles ago. Still on stock shafts with about 3.5" of lift on a 2dr.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just a few specs of grease is not a big deal, when it tears the boot you need to be concerned. You can also repack the grease in the CV joints of the stock shaft [I did a full write-up on that].

You will certainly get vibrations before a complete failure. Unfortunately with how many vibes and wiggles you get with a lifted JK at mud terrains, it's not always obvious.

My shaft squeaked out grease when I first put a budget boost on it....about 40,000 miles ago. Still on stock shafts with about 3.5" of lift on a 2dr.
Thats reassuring. Ill keep en eye on er and watch for any vibrations. With driveline vibrations, is it a strong, shake your whole Jeep kinda thing, or is it a more subtle, low tone vib felt in your feet as you drive? I have never experienced it before I want to know what to look out for....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So most here would agree that woods is the way to go?
 

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So most here would agree that woods is the way to go?
There are many brands out there. Personally, when it comes time for me to get driveshafts, I will buy locally. If there are issues, which every driveshaft company tends to, you will have to pull it and drop $40? every time. If it's a vibration, broken, joint, whatever. Locally you can stop by and get it fixed on the spot, it can also be measured accurately to your rig versus a "it should be right" measurement.

However I think you are quite a ways away from needing a shaft. It's not quite one of those things I look forward to spending money on, so I maintain my stockers.
 

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Had the same thing happen after my regear. The tech didn't install my pinion seal correctly and axle fluid ended up spraying in a circular pattern on my undercarriage. So my guess is: blown or badly installed pinion seal.
 

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Had the same thing happen after my regear. The tech didn't install my pinion seal correctly and axle fluid ended up spraying in a circular pattern on my undercarriage. So my guess is: blown or badly installed pinion seal.
gear oil and the grease from the u joint are different

sent using the dark side of the force
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There are many brands out there. Personally, when it comes time for me to get driveshafts, I will buy locally. If there are issues, which every driveshaft company tends to, you will have to pull it and drop $40? every time. If it's a vibration, broken, joint, whatever. Locally you can stop by and get it fixed on the spot, it can also be measured accurately to your rig versus a "it should be right" measurement.

However I think you are quite a ways away from needing a shaft. It's not quite one of those things I look forward to spending money on, so I maintain my stockers.
Understandable. But with Tom Woods, you measure from flange to flange and give them the measurements, prior to purchase. so wouldnt that essentially lead to the same outcome?
 

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Understandable. But with Tom Woods, you measure from flange to flange and give them the measurements, prior to purchase. so wouldnt that essentially lead to the same outcome?
Static or flexed measurements? That may be the same as one reason why I don't want a mail order shaft. Warranty is the other big one, and yes they do get warrantied.


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