JKOwners Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
at what size lift should they be replaced? and if you were going to do one at a time what one would you do first
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
I installed a Teraflex 2.5" coil 4dr kit on my 2010 2dr rubi 3 weeks ago and I just ordered a complete driveline package from Coast Driveline.

I have a vibration from my front driveshaft, I tried adjusting the lower control arms to less than factory specs and it drove like crap and vibration was still there! No torn boots or any signs of failure, just a bad vibration! took the shaft out smooth as glass!

I guess it just depends, I got over 3" of lift and do not have any heavy accessories.

I also have Teraflex monster track bars, front lower and rear upper control arms.

This lift is getting expensive, But Bill from Coast assures me my vibration will go away and I can go back to a normal caster range!


I never anticipated needing them so soon but it is what it is.....Flip a coin, No way to tell until after the install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
I'm not sure if I got lucky or what but I have a TF 2.5 spring lift and when I installed my 5.38s they (4WP Denver) told me I would probably need a new front drive shaft or I would get vibration out of the front end. ??? "cause it's spinnin faster"??? Figured I would wait to see if I had any problems and I didn't so I'm still running stock shafts, no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
931 Posts
they say that anything with a 2.5 lift or higher you should replace the ds. i'm running a 3.5 rk lift and stock gears, frnt lower control arms and stock drive shaft as well and no vibrations ever! even when i had the 2.5 bb on there last year had no problems. :beer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
606 Posts
I am still running stock shafts with an AEV 4.5" lift and 37's on a JKU. 20,000 lifted miles and going strong.

My Jeep has a Hemi and a 545rfe transmission as well as RROR skids, the different transmission and the RROR skids don't interfere with the front DS at full droop and cause boot tearing, whereas the oem 42rfe trans and the oem skid do, and sometimes the exhaust cross over as well.

If you don't tear the boot your oem shafts should be fine on a four door. In fact, the oem shafts are stonger than most aftermarket shafts because the rzeppa joint is stronger than the aftermaket u-joints. There will be less vibration with the oem shaft as well since the rzeppa is a true constant velocity joint.

If you do tear your front DS boot then it seems results vary widely, with some shafts lasting more than a year with a torn boot and some not lasting more than a month or so. As an alternative to a double cardin jointed shaft, you can send AEV your front drive shaft and the will modify it to make it thinner and (greasable too) to prevent auto trans/skid plate/exhaust interference while maintaining the rzeppa joint.

I have read that two doors with tall lifts reportedly need rear shafts because of length and angle issues.

JPK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,021 Posts
I have 51k on my jk. About 30,000+ on my 2.5" TF coil lift. The front start boot on the drive shaft tore the first time I flexed it. I've been keeping it lubed manually ever since. So far do good...knock wood.


Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,713 Posts
Run the stock shaft till you need to change it unless the vibes are real bad. That said, it'll probably be my next mod even though I'm really not having any major issues.
 

·
Official Monkey Business
Joined
·
12,215 Posts
For sure replace the rear first. I had a 4" Teraflex spring lift and had the rear fail at 70 mph on the hwy:shaking: The front will get a ripped boot but that won't make it fail. Most of us spend at least 90% of our time on the street so the rear gets the workout. It will fail first in most cases.



All good now - JE Reel 1350 front & rear:beer:

 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top