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Discussion Starter #1
So I've had JK's since they first came out.
I know if you unplug and take the doors off, the radio stays on for a while after you shut off the jeep.

Well after wheeling last weekend, I put my doors back on and plugged them in, but radio still doesn't shut off when I open my driver door.
The passenger door kills it as it should, but nothing out of the driver side.
I know I can just "push the radio power button", but I'd rather resolve the problem.

I looked at the pigtail connection for the driver door and it looks clean and intact.
I took it apart and re-installed it firmly repeatedly and even packed it full of dielectric grease, but no luck.

Anybody have any suggestions?
Anybody know what wires should have power or not that maybe I can test with my meter?
It's obviously not an emergency, but I would like any suggestions anybody has.

Thanks for looking.
 

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13,230 Posts
Mine did that and the dealer replaced the tipm for it. My dome light didn't work with the drivers door and I lost the key chime.
 

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Mine does this as well. Dealer said it was the "door ajar" switch, which is actually an integral part of the door latching/locking mechanism. Of course, the part is on back-order nation wide (can't find it anywhere - I've looked) and is about $60.

I tried taking mine apart to fix, but the mechanism is plastic and metal tied together with rivets. Looked like more trouble than it's worth to tear into, so I've just been dealing with the 30 seconds it takes for everything to shut down on its own.
 

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Totally Integrated Power Module. Like, it's totally integrated! Makes me think of Spicoli.
 

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Anybody have any idea how to diagnose this?
My plan is: when I get a chance, I'm going to probe the wires going to the door with my test light (before and after the connector) to see if they're the same on both sides.
I'm thinking if they're the same, it's a problem with the part in the door and if the driver side is dead, than it's that totally integrated crap.
I checked the resistance of my wires on the door side of the connector. Just to make sure things were changing when it was latched, and when it was open. That worked fine so I took it in under warranty. The TIPM is the entire fuse box under the hood..
 
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