[emt.micah]

Picking up a Blue Sea Systems fuse box this afternoon. Going to use it to clean up my wiring that isn't on my Spod. (Yes, I have that many switches!)

Anyway....does this look right to you guys? Kind of brain farting right now.

Thanks,

Micah

 

[Dancin Dan]

No ground coming from your lights.

 

[emt.micah]

No ground coming from your lights.

That part is covered. All my accessories in this system already work and are properly grounded. Just didn't draw that on the sketch.

Does the rest look okay?

 

[Dancin Dan]

Ah. I was basing my advice solely on the drawing.


Tough to say if it is right or not without knowing how many accessories will be powered, amp draw on each, total system draw for the hot wire coming into the system from the batt, Wire gauges used, etc.

If you want comprehensive advice, offer more detailed information.

Edit:
Use this as a basis for whether or not you're doing it right :

Edit to the edit.

I would not daisy chain the grounds like that. If you develop a fault in the system, you'll have a helluva time pinning it down.

 

[emt.micah]

Good point.

Relay #1 works a set of Hella 500 driving lights
Relay #2 works a single halogen rear work light
Relay #3 works my LED rock lights
Relay #4 is for an extra set of cig lighter plug outlets under my dash

Relays 1, 2, 3 all on Contura switches. Relay 4 will be triggered by the seat heater fuse outlet in the fuse box.

Extra outlets on the Bleu Sea fuse box are for whatever sounds like fun in the future.

 

[Dancin Dan]

The more I look at this, the less I like it. You're bringing a hot wire into the cab right off the battery? Should have an inline fuse on itat the least.

Better still is to avoid that mess and pier the relay straight off the battery. I powered my switches with an ign/on only fuse in then factory fuse box. That way there's no question of an error if my Heep burns into a puddle.

YMMV

 

[emt.micah]

The drawing is supposed to show a fused fire coming form the Blue Seas fuse box to the in cab switches.

The only wires coming direct from the battery were going to the relays (thru a fuse in the fuse box if so what size??) and to the fuse box itself.

 

[Dancin Dan]

Do this.

Make a drawing that shows everything that might bear relevence and then come back to ask everyone's opinion.

 

[emt.micah]

Wow. Thought I did that.....

Guess your title under your user name is accurate though....

 

[FireTrail741]

You know you can add another sPod right?

 

[emt.micah]

You know you can add another sPod right?

I'm sure I could. But for the price, this is an easier alternative.

The BluSea fuse box is like $40. 40A fuses are less than $8.

 

[Dancin Dan]

I'm sure I could. But for the price, this is an easier alternative.

The BluSea fuse box is like $40. 40A fuses are less than $8.

Be sure to make the fuse your weakest point in the circuit.

 

[Panamon Creel]

Doesn't look right to me.
Battery to Fuse Box OK, maybe a big fuse near the battery if there is some distance between the battery and the fuse box.
Fuse Box to Acc not OK, supposed to be fuse box over Relays to your Acc
Fuse Box to In Cab switches, not really needed if you just power relays with the switches. Just get power from what's available in Cab from the power outlet circuits.

 

[tu8i1o7]

Why not do something kind of like this. It's a rough draft of what I did. At the top is a fuse block, and the switches are grounds and not hot. That way there isn't a hot wire going to wherever they are.
And don't mind the first two sets of relays... those are for my spotlight headlight mod :bounce:

 

[emt.micah]

That looks sharp. How did you draw it out?

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tu8i1o7]

I just copied the relays off the internet and used paint for the lines and whatnot. It's a pretty crude drawing, but it gets the job done. It's also a pretty basic schematic. I like it because there isn't a hot wire going through your firewall. It also cuts down on the wiring.

 

[Keithdog72]

Why not do something kind of like this. It's a rough draft of what I did. At the top is a fuse block, and the switches are grounds and not hot. That way there isn't a hot wire going to wherever they are.
And don't mind the first two sets of relays... those are for my spotlight headlight mod :bounce:

^^this. Whenever feasible, I find it wise to let the common control a relay. That way, you can cut down on any potential shorting and/or fire hazard

 

[FireTrail741]

^^this. Whenever feasible, I find it wise to let the common control a relay. That way, you can cut down on any potential shorting and/or fire hazard

Using ground as the controller depends on the circuit for any advantage. Variables there.

 

[Keithdog72]

Using ground as the controller depends on the circuit for any advantage. Variables there.

Very true statement. Come to think of it, I believe the OP posted another thread with dual lighted switches. A common trigger is something I wouldn't do for those type switches.

 

[Melor]

I would draw off the battery and put an inline, low amp fuse, small diameter wire close the battery that runs to the cab to provide hot for your switches. I would draw off the battery with an inline high amp fuse close to the battery and large diameter wire to the relay block. I would use the fuse block for the outputs of the relay only.

If the fuse block can be located very close to the battery, only then I would consider using it as a replacement for the inline fuses along with the outputs of the relays.

Paul