JKOwners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just got my new ARB diff covers in the other day and I'm itchin to get them installed. This is my first time changing a cover (or even changing the fluid) so I had a couple questions for those more in the know!

1) What diff fluid do you recommend? Any particular brands? Should I stick with the weight specified in the manual (I haven't looked yet but I assume the manual has a recommendation)? Are there synthetics available? Should I go synthetic?

2) From the little research I've done it sounds like lube lockers are the best/easiest way to go. Does the standard D44 lube locker work on the JK D44? Any reasons not to go with a lube locker?

Thanks!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,226 Posts
I just finished installing a new locker and diff cover. I used the lube locker. So far no leaks but I have only driven 30 miles so I suppose the next few days will be the test. It was nice to not have to wait for RTV to set up and when it comes time to open it back up again it will be nice to not have to scrape the RTV off.

I used Mobile 1 synthetic gear oil. In my opinion, Royale Purple and Mobile 1 are the best quality. If you are not towing I would use 75-w90. If you are towing I belive the manual recomends 85w-140.

The Lube locker for the JK d44 is the same as previous models. Only reson to not go with a Lube Locker is some users have said they leak. I have not personaly seen a leaking one yet. Other reason would be cost as compared to a tube of RTV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
I used lube lockers when switched my diff covers. They are awesome. I never again want to spend and hour scraping old RTV off the D44. And yep, they work on JKD44s.

I've even had my covers off, and re-used the same lube lockers. No leakage whatsoever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
If the LubeLockers are leaking I'd bet it's a problem with a warped or peeled cover and nothing to do with the gasket. I too love not having to wait for the silicone to set up and especially not having to scrape that crap off when I pull the cover. For the extra $10 I pay over the price of a tube of RTV it's so worth my time. And no, never any leaks even when I've reused them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
...
2) From the little research I've done it sounds like lube lockers are the best/easiest way to go. Does the standard D44 lube locker work on the JK D44? Any reasons not to go with a lube locker?
...
No real need for lube lockers since the JK axles have drain plugs. I would just go with a "normal" gasket with a little RTV smeared on for good measure. Or just straight RTV.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. Got the lube lockers - seems to be the best way to go. Any other thoughts on differential fluid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
I got a Lube Locker for my front differential cover after I hit a rock just right enough to cause it to leak. It hasn't leaked since and is much easier and pleasant to work with then the RTV sealant.

I used synthetic, Royal Purple to be specific. I think the equivalent is 75w-90; however, I believe you need a different weight if you go with non-synthetic and have a limited slip differential.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
I went with Royal Purple and RTVon my last change. Didn't know about the lube lockers, but I would assume that if they are like any other gasket, even, cross pattern torqueing will avoid leaks. If I remember correctly, 25ft lbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,737 Posts
yes i know, i'm grave digging

So, i've been informed that if you use full synthetic gear oil in the rear you will NOT need the addiditive in the rear.

This may or may not help somebody in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,596 Posts
Royal Purple has it in it already,or it just be the syn formula.I ran the RP in my 02 FX4 both front and rear diffs.Actually improved mpg a bit.:smokin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,199 Posts
Just becareful torqueing to the lubelocker specs... I broke off a few bolt heads. They say first pass to 20 ft/lbs second pass to 35 ft/lbs.... WAY TOO TIGHT. If I remeber correctly the torque spec for the bolts is 25 ft/lbs.
It's 30 ft/lbs for all axles and 25 ft/lbs for the fill plug. Makes sure you use a criss-cross pattern and have an accurate torque wrench.

Lube Lockers work great. I got fed up with cleaning RTV and switched to regular gaskets, but they burn on after a while and hard to remove too. Lube Lockers are the cleanest solution.

Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and Valvoline all make good syn fluids in my view, but I prefer Royal Purple.

If you have a lift, the diffs will be rotated and you'll need to add more to ensure the pinion bearings stay lubed.

With syn fluid I fill them both to the fill plug on my Riddler covers, which is about 7 pts for the rear and 5 pints for the front. If you use dino fluid, you can only put about 4 pts in the front as it will vent out the breather tube, as dino tends to expand more than synthetic when hot. Never had any venting issues at the rear with syn or dino.

I use Royal Purple 75W140 for both diffs. If you live in a climate that gets cold and you don't tow much go with 75W90 syn or 80W90 dino.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,864 Posts
With syn fluid I fill them both to the fill plug on my Riddler covers, which is about 7 pts for the rear and 5 pints for the front. If you use dino fluid, you can only put about 4 pts in the front as it will vent out the breather tube, as dino tends to expand more than synthetic when hot. Never had any venting issues at the rear with syn or dino.
For chits and giggles I topped off my diffs (w/ syn) to the fill plug (Riddlers). No problem with the rear but the front blew some out of the vent at freeway speeds.

Why does chit work for you but not for me? :shaking:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
Just becareful torqueing to the lubelocker specs... I broke off a few bolt heads. They say first pass to 20 ft/lbs second pass to 35 ft/lbs.... WAY TOO TIGHT. If I remeber correctly the torque spec for the bolts is 25 ft/lbs. I have half of a bolt in the bolt hole that ill never get out because of that!
I did the same thing. When I checked the torque specs for the size bolts I was using Lube Locker's specs were way higher. Find out your real specs before you torque them. First pass = half torque and second pass = full torque (according to whatever bolts you're using).

Other than that, I really like them. No leaks at all.

I did end up using RTV on the cover side of the gasket on the Riddler cover because it had rough machining. It looked like it was milled with a broken cutter. The Solid cover was nice and smooth so no RTV needed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,453 Posts
South Paw

Just becareful torqueing to the lubelocker specs... I broke off a few bolt heads. They say first pass to 20 ft/lbs second pass to 35 ft/lbs.... WAY TOO TIGHT. If I remeber correctly the torque spec for the bolts is 25 ft/lbs. I have half of a bolt in the bolt hole that ill never get out because of that!
Have you tried a South Paw Drill Bit? I find those work great for getting out broken bolts. It's best to keep the bit very sharp so it bites in. Often times it will bite hard enough to back out the broken bolt. :jeep2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,580 Posts
Love my Lube Lockers on my D44s. Couple of notes about them - ignore LL's torque specs, as noted above 35 ft lbs is way too much and you'll probably break off a bolt head or two. 25 ft lbs is plenty, 30 if you're feeling brave, I used 25 ft lbs and no leaks, no problems.

Second, for some reason LLs tend to allow cover bolts to back out a bit more easily (probably because there is no RTV creating resistance on the bolt threads), throw some blue Loctite on the cover bolts when installing them and no worries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,864 Posts
Regarding the cover bolts, I have never used a torque wrench, and I have probably done a few hundred differential services in my life time. Snugging them down with a hand ratchet until they feel tight has always worked for me just fine.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top