Thanks for the right up.
This did fix my wobble, but unfortunately when I came back from superlift I am having some more trouble. I am waiting for some stuff to come in and I will get it all fixed up again.This is a modified version of a PM to RedX08 who was fighting some wobbles:
First, I would re-align your rig with 4 degrees or more caster (assuming you have adjustable front control arms) and the most toe-in within factory specs. If you are doing it yourself using the project-jk write-up, toe-in 1/8" more in the front of the tires than the back.
Also, if you have bent an axle C and your camber is out of stock specs, this may cause some shimmy at certain speeds. You need offset ball joints to fix this.
During the alignment, I would check the tie rod adjusting sleeve to see if it was damaged to the point that it wobbles or is loose when the tie rod got bent. I would also have someone slowly turn the steering wheel from side to side while inspecting the tie rod ends and drag link end to see if their is side-to-side play. Also, with a helper turning the steering side to side, I would inspect the steering shaft (in the engine compartment), the shaft u-joints, the steering box and output shaft, and the pitman arm.
Second, I'd make sure your tire psi was somewhere between 28 and 30, and that you haven't rotated your spare to your front axle (differences in size due to the spare having less wear can cause issues).
Third, I would rotate your tires front to back to see if it is tire/wheel related (never having the spare rotated to the front). While rotating the tires, I would want to know if you have hubcentric wheel spacers from Spidertrax and that you removed the lug retainer clips when you installed the spacers. If your spacers aren't hubcentric, I would replace them. If you did not remove the lug retainer clips, that is the source of your wobble.
Fourth, I would loosen the bolts for your front trackbar and front control arms, rock the vehicle back and forth, then side to side, then re-torque everything to specs to see if it is from bushings that are bound up.
If you have had DW instead of just shimmies/wobbles, each component needs to be removed one-by-one to inspect bolt holes and bushings.
Fifth, I would inspect your ball joints by jacking up your rig with the tires slightly off the ground with the axle on jack stands. Then, while someone uses a crow bar or some other lever underneath a tire, while he person lifts up the tire I would inspect the ball joints to see if there is too much up and down play. There should be less than 1.5mm up and down movement in the lower ball joints.
Also while on the jack stands, I would grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom with the other hand to see rock it in and out to see if there is lateral play in the ball joints. There should be almost no lateral movement.
Sixth, while still on the front jack stands, I would remove the tires/wheels and brakes to inspect the unit-bearings to see if they have too much play.
Seventh, I would replace the tie rod with a new one--preferably a Poly Performance or Rock Krawler chromoly tie rod.
Eighth, I would sell my JKS front trackbar and replace it with a Teraflex forged front trackbar.
Ninth, I would replace my drag link with a chromoly version.
Tenth, if I hadn't gotten rid of it by then, I would sell my front axle and buy a Dynatrac 44 front housing to move my Rubi locker, gears, and my chromoly shafts into.
I haven't. The 14 mm vs. 9/16" is only about 0.3 mm difference though. I believe the primary problem is a 14 mm bolt and 15-16 mm bracket holes.Using a 9/16" bolt wouldn't be a bad idea then. I saw someone posted the 2011 track bars had a ball end to them, seen that?
I haven't. The 14 mm vs. 9/16" is only about 0.3 mm difference though. I believe the primary problem is a 14 mm bolt and 15-16 mm bracket holes.
Thank youI just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to do this writeup. This is a really important issue and you've done a very nice job.
I know two other people who used the toe out adjustment to stop their shimmys.I fought a shimmy that sometimes developed into a DW for many months. Everything was tight and aligned but still had the shimmy. Then I found a thread on a board that said to set toe OUT to 3/16th if the jeep is lifted. Toe out is the only thing that solved my shimmy.
Toe out often masks worn ball joints.Good info Planman! Thanks for posting.
I know two other people who used the toe out adjustment to stop their shimmys.
Any other thoughts on using toe out vs toe in? Would toe out somehow just be masking another issue?
Good info! Thanks a lot!Toe out often masks worn ball joints.
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