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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I am new to the site and am very thankful for any assistance that you may lend to me on this problem. I have searched many of the other JK forums and this one seems to be the most well rounded and helpful. So here is my rig and here is my problem. I want to start off by apologizing for the length, but this is nutrient dense so, hopefully all questions are answered right away.

2010 JK Wrangler Islander 3.8 L 4x4
2.5" Teraflex Suspension lift
Tom Woods Double Cardan front and rear drive shafts
33" Tires
Front and rear JCR Steel bumpers with Winch on front bumper (I'm not going into particulars about the name brands / models, rather just giving an idea of weight)
JCR Rock Sliders
Teraflex Differential Covers - Front and Rear
Kargo Master Congo Pro Rack Kit with catwalk

Here is my issue.

About 1 month ago my throw out bearing went. It had been having intermittent noise problems for years. 1 month it would be squeaking when clutch depressed. The next it would be gone. Well about a mile from my house it went. Grinding like a son of a............
I drove no more than 1 mile with it like this and parked the Jeep. I had it towed to a local 4x4 expert in my area. Their claim to fame is "Jeeps"

The Jeep has 97,000 K on it. I am religious with fluids, etc. It has been put through the paces with towing my old flats boat in Florida, but I've never ragged on her much at all.
There was NO noise coming from under the Jeep until the TOB blew out. I decided since the TOB was needing to be replaced, and the jeep had 97K on it, to go for the whole clutch. So. I did some research and settled on the following after about 2 weeks of research and waiting for orders to arrive. I got the Jeep back last week Friday. The issue started the following day (or at least I noticed it then). I did not drive the jeep much until I drove it back to the mechanic. They did a "recheck" on their install which I suspect was a tear down. I trust these guys as they have a good reputation locally. They could not figure out what the problem was. They could reproduce it, but seemed to settle on the transmission or transfer case.

I just find it very odd that this started after the clutch disassembly and re-install. Nothing. Then something. It makes me think something isn't aligned right, but that's why I'm coming to you guys / gals. Here are the parts installed:

1. National TOB - as recommended in several forums
2. Spec 2+ Clutch Kit
3. Slave and Master Cylinder replacement (BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 800091 BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 900107) Both most popular on Rock Auto
4. Pilot Bearing replacement (from Spec 2+ Clutch Kit)
5. Resurfaced the original Flywheel

Also, during this procedure, since they were removing the transmission I had them lube the Tom Wood's Drive Shafts. They have done this before without any problem, BUT NO CLUTCH REPLACEMENT LAST TIME. They have done this before and the shafts need to be removed to get to all the zerks. They know this and have removed them before. I gave them the write up on these shafts and they know they should be removed. I am assuming they removed them this time in order to do it although I am not sure.

The mechanic verified the TOB was destroyed. They replaced the clutch and all the rest mentioned above with "little problem." I picked up the Jeep a couple of days later. I do not recall hearing the grinding / rattling noise on day one after the install, but it has been there every day after.

The rattling / grinding noise is more of a rattle than a grind. It sounds like something under the shifter is rattling around while in the gears mentioned.
This rattling / grinding noise was never present before the TOB went. Not even a tiny bit.
This rattling / grinding noise is most prominent in gears 4 & 6, but it can be heard in gear 5
This rattling / grinding noise is only present when accelerating / adding load
The rattling / grinding noise is not present with the clutch depressed or at high RPM's (at least I can't hear it)

If the differential is in 2H, the grind is there as above
If I switch the differential into 4H it is there as above
If I switch the differential into 4L gets dull. I can barely hear it. I suspect this is because of the higher RPM's as the noise only presents at around 1500 RPM in the gears mentioned above.

Here is where it gets interesting:

If I switch the differential into NEUTRAL - when the clutch is depressed and put it into 6 there is no noise until the clutch is released. Then, with the clutch out, the noise is at its loudest in gear 6. The noise gets less in gear 5, and slightly less in gear 4. The noise is nearly nonexistent in gears 3,2,1. Mind you. I'm not moving and there is no "load" the same way there is when i'm moving.

I have taken a video so you can hear and see the issue to the best I can reproduce it while the differential is in neutral as described above:

I have read in a couple of other forums it could be heat shielding. It just doesn't seem like that, but I suppose it could be.
I have read in a couple of other forums it could be the inner boot being torn and mine was in fact torn. This is why you can see as much as you can in my video. I will be replacing that asap. Although, I think this would just make the noise "less".

The mechanic suggestion was to drive it for a couple of hundred miles and they would pull the fluid plug, look for contamination, look for metal shavings on the plug.

I would love to hear any suggestions you guys have and would be glad to add any further information you might need. I apologize for the depth, but one thing I have noticed from other posts is everyone asks for more information initially so.........I thought I would give as much as I could from the get go.

My opinion - for what it's worth - this stinks of some sort of alignment issue. Maybe the Spec 2+....I don't know. Why, after a clutch replacement, would my transmission / differential all the sudden be bad ?

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