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So when I was getting my tires mounted the tire guy had a cool little tool to deflate my tires. It looks like a screw driver with a unique head. It unscrews a bolt in the tire at the valve and the tire deflates FAST. He gave me the driver for free. It takes me about 15-20 seconds to go from 26 psi to 10 psi. I searched for the tool online to find an example but couldn't find it. I can take a pic tomorrow if needed. I can't see what the danger can be from unscrewing the bolt to deflate but maybe someone can chime in if they know what I'm talking about. The shop guy said the tool costs $2 by the way.
 

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That would be a valve core removal tool. No problem using it till your finger slips and the valve core disappears. Its not really possible to keep air in the tire without one. Keep some spare cores with you and it would be fine
 

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Sounds like a valve stem remover, I dont see that it would be a problem, just not a set it and forget it deflator.

Edit. ^^^^what the other guy said, faster and better than I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the valve core standard in all tires or do I have to get spares from the the company that makes my tire?

Why is this method not used by others... I tested it out and it seems like a great option for those that are to cheap to pay $60+ for deflators?
 

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They are all designed the same. If you have TPMS sensors, you will need to use only the silver colored cores. The brass cores will corrode into the sensor. I have 2 core tools in my tool bag, but i like to use the stauns for a more precise pressure every time. Removing cores works great, just be careful not to overtighten the core and strip it when you reinstall it. (is it obvious that i work for a tire shop?)
 

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just dont cross thread that shrader valve going back in, or you'll be f*ked!
 

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:smokin: It is used by a lot, but

Not a good idea, too big a chance to loose the valve core, or damage it, you have to check the air pressure often, unless you memorize the seconds of deflation

You only do one tire at a time and have to squat there, whether it's wet/dry/cold/hot

It's not an accurate way of deflation

There are many other ways of advised ways to do it, I use STAUNS and they have worked for me for 4 years (this set)

:grinpimp::grinpimp: JIMBO
 

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I use the same thing as the Currie with an ARB label on it.
 

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I use the currie deflator, it removes the core, but keeps it internal. $30

I don't like stauns because I don't always use the same pressure...it depends what we are doing.



http://www.currieenterprises.com/CEStore/Product.aspx?id=1236
I use the same one and love it. Fast and easy.
I use the same thing as the Currie with an ARB label on it.

To you folks using either the ARB or Currie fast deflator; have you had any issues with the "remover" fitting certain valve stems? I've tried to use a buddies of mine (he's got the ARB) with both the Mopar TPMS valves as well as regular run of the mill rubber valve stems and I can never get the damn thing to engage the shrader valve... am I just a dumbass?
 

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To you folks using either the ARB or Currie fast deflator; have you had any issues with the "remover" fitting certain valve stems? I've tried to use a buddies of mine (he's got the ARB) with both the Mopar TPMS valves as well as regular run of the mill rubber valve stems and I can never get the damn thing to engage the shrader valve... am I just a dumbass?

I've had a couple that it didn't like and replaced the cores.
 

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Yeah, It seems to like the package of cores I bought from pep boys just fine.
Great, thanks for the info. :beer:



Those monster valves are cool, put pricey.
Yar, not to mention how pissed I'd be when I rip one off on the trail. :bawling:
 

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To you folks using either the ARB or Currie fast deflator; have you had any issues with the "remover" fitting certain valve stems? I've tried to use a buddies of mine (he's got the ARB) with both the Mopar TPMS valves as well as regular run of the mill rubber valve stems and I can never get the damn thing to engage the shrader valve... am I just a dumbass?
I've had a couple that it didn't like and replaced the cores.
x2. sometimes you have to "wiggle" it a bit to get it to fit in place. I've only had one that needed to be replaced, but the valve was mangled for some reason.
 
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