[Rescue1]

Custom Power Distribution Block

Ok here is what I came up with. Btw everything is covered in looms and buttoned up it’s just easier to see when all the wires are exposed. This system will allow up to 6 circuits running 150 amps total or any single circuit running up to 25 amps. Typical set of 130 watt lights draws around 22 amps.

I started with my switches in the dash. I have not placed a 6th switch yet (I’m going to put it in the a pillar for a fan cut off) but I put in my 5 like this

Then I tapped into the M8 fuse in the fuse block designated for heated seats. This is only live with ignition. I piggy backed off of this with a 10 amp fuse and ran it into the cab and into this distribution block.

I ran a wire to each switch. Then for ground I drilled a hole in the aluminum frame and installed a grounding stud, again running to each switch. Now each switch will come on only if the ignition is on. The red wires leading out to the engine bay find there way to a bank of relays attached to a Rockrash4x4 relay mounting plate.

there is a fuse block attached to the plastic wall beside the battery.

I used a 4ga battery cable to power the fuse box. You can see it in the relay pic. If I did it again I would grab power from the terminal in the fuse box instead of the battery for a cleaner install. Each line is then fused and sent to the corresponding relay.
Last order of business was to ground the relays. I ran each gound to the relays tapped mounted bolt, then grounded the entire plate using the bolt on the inner fender well right by the fuse box

Now if I want to throw another set of lights or anything else pulling less than 30 amps all I have to do is hit one of the open relay terminals. My only concern is the new aux fuse block being open, but I’ve installed low amp fuses in all the “empty” spots, and they fit very tight in there. so far it has not been a problem (I’ve been running this for about 2 months) and I’ve run through lots of high water recently. Thanks to Ike and my need to explore. Including switches, relays, relay plate, wires, connectors, looms etc… I’ve got right at $90 invested. And getting to the factory fuses works the same way as before.

 

[Dr.Dirty]

thats a lot of zip ties

 

[Rescue1]

yea most went away, i was just trying to get all the slack out and i had to wait about a week before my looms came in. i'll have to get a pic of the finished product.

 

[Guest]

Very nice and clean work (once you have the split loom finished). I did something along the same lines.


http://www.myprojectjk.com/myprojectjkcom/electrical.html

 

[OlMan]

There is a company out there that does this for folk who do not have quite the skills of the above guys. One of the people in my club did his JK this way:

http://www.4x4spod.com/

 

[tenpenny]

I love it

 

[warriorwrangler]

Could you explain a little more about what you did with the stock fuse box and point out where the m8 fuse box is located? This is the best/cleanest looking setup I have seen after 2 weeks of perusing this site and those inferior wrangler sites and am definitely going to re-wire all of my lights to this rig.

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

This is what you need to tap power from the M9 or now M8 fuse. This is what gets you power for the switches. Open the factory fuse box and there is a layout of each position. This is the same exact setup that I have.

If you want more pics I can post them up in here. Just let me know what you want to see.

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

Maybe you can make out the M9 spot in this pic.

 

[warriorwrangler]

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58022

Okay so according to that thread there would be 4 of those doohickeys going from the fuse block to separate relays and 1 going from the m9 fuse to the distributor block right?

Can't view that pic for some reason unfortunately

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58022

Okay so according to that thread there would be 4 of those doohickeys going from the fuse block to separate relays and 1 going from the m9 fuse to the distributor block right?

Can't view that pic for some reason unfortunately

No, only one of the fuse tap (doohickey) is used running to the distribution block that is shown in the top pictures, from there the power is distributed to each switch and from each switch to its own relay.

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

Try not to get frustrated with this, I was trying to show a guy how it all worked together when we did it on his jeep two weeks ago and for about an hour he had the deer in the headlights look. This was with me pointing at things and telling him time and time again. Just hang in there and we can get you through this.

 

[warriorwrangler]

Haha alright, hopefully by the end he was a deer in some real bright headlights. So there is one distribution tap from the m9 fuse box to the distribution block. Still gotta figure out what a db is and how it works but skip that for now. From the db there are 5 hot wires (in OP's setup) that run to the switch, from the switch there is 1 ground and one running to the relay right? How then is power tapped for the hot wire from the relay from the fuse box? There would need to be a fuse tap for each relay unless you ran right to the battery right?

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

Haha alright, hopefully by the end he was a deer in some real bright headlights. So there is one distribution tap from the m9 fuse box to the distribution block. Still gotta figure out what a db is and how it works but skip that for now. From the db there are 5 hot wires (in OP's setup) that run to the switch, from the switch there is 1 ground and one running to the relay right? How then is power tapped for the hot wire from the relay from the fuse box? There would need to be a fuse tap for each relay unless you ran right to the battery right?

I will be home in about 30 minutes and will try to explain all of this with pictures and crayons.

 

[warriorwrangler]

Please use crayola, none of that cheap CHINESE shih

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

Ok if you want to do it exactly like this you are going to need the

fuse tap.

Fuse block

relays

Distribution block

Wire, wire connectors and zip ties.

You are going to run a "hot wire" from you battery to the bottom of the fuse block marked +. As shown in this pic

The "hot" wires coming from the fuse block will run to connection 30 on the relay.

Ok the fuse tap will be placed in the M9 on the factory fuse box and that wire that is sticking out of the end of the fuse tap will run to your distribution block like this picture.

The opposite side of the distribution block will run to your "hot" side on the switch. From your switch there will a power out connection and that will run to your connection on the relay marked 85.

Number 86 on your relay will be your ground. You can daisy chain them all together and then use one of the ground points on the passenger fender well.

Number 87 on your relay that is where you will run your "hot" wire down to the lights or whatever else you want power too.

Using this it will only allow you to run your accessories when the ignition is on. You are using the M9 fuse position just to power the relays which allows it to close there by sending power directly from the battery through the fuse block through the relay and to the item you want power to go to.

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

A daisy chain that I am referring to is like this. You will use the spade connectors on the relays and ring connectors on the distribution block. The last wire out of your "daisy chain" for the relay ground you can run to one of the ground spots on the inner fenderwell on the passenger side right above the tire.

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5...isychain_1__03494.1405452992.1024.768.jpg?c=2

 

[Uncle Sams Misguided Child]

Does this make it a little clearer?

 

[bpkeen]

...[I]NOW[/I] I get it!

For a clear understanding of watts, amps, volts and ohms see:

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94706