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182 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

Mfg: JK-44HPF2
Currie Enterprises® Price Starts At: $1,999.95


The Currie RockJock® high pinion 44 is an all new, heavy duty 44 made 100% by Currie. Their casting is a heavy duty, ductile iron piece that uses the larger JK high pinion 44 gears only. These gears feature a larger ring gear than a standard 44 as well as a 29 spline Dana 60 size pinion gear. Tubes are 3" x .375" wall. All new heavy duty JK suspension brackets are mounted on this housing for an easy bolt in installation and Currie's forged JK knuckles are installed. These are completely custom-built units that are made-to-order to each customer's specifications and application. They provide a much stronger assembly than the factory frontend in Jeep JK vehicles.


Unit is the factory 65.400" overall finished width. This housing weighs 134lbs., where a stock JK high pinion 44 front housing weighs 91lbs. Housings do not include ball joints, cover or yoke. Must use part number 44-4109JKHP solid spacer & shim kit when setting up gears.

My Thoughts

There are multiple companies that are now making the replacement 44 housing, but Currie Enterprises® stepped up to the plate when I spoke with them about what I was looking for. Currie Enterprises® offered for me to come out and take a tour and also take photos of the housing during assembly. I had some upgrades like TeraFlex’s big rotor kit, and Reid Racing® Knuckles that I wanted to transfer over. Currie Enterprises® walked me through step by step of what they would be doing to the housing and what upgrades were available. I chose to have Synergy ball joints installed, Yukon 5.13 gears, Yukon Zip Locker, and I couldn’t be happier with the way the housing turned out, the way I was treated through the whole process, and the quality of everything that was done. I can’t wait to do the rear 60 next!

Install Time

3-6 hours (Not including gears or lockers.)

Tools Needed

Radio for your favorite tunes
Drink of choice
9+ Gear Oil
Paper Towels
Oil Catch
Torque Wrench
Protective Eyewear
1/2” Ratchet
3/8” Ratchet
Ratchet Extensions
Dead Blow
Hammer/Mini Sledge
4 Jack stands
Lift or Jack
13mm Socket (12 point)
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
¾” or 19mm Socket
21mm Socket
8mm Allen Wrench
Zip Ties
Wheel Blocks

Torque Reference Guide

Driveshaft 81 ft. lbs.
Upper Ball Joints 85 ft. lbs.
Lower Ball Joints 100 ft. lbs.
Hub Nuts 75 ft. lbs.
Axle Center Nut 100 ft. lbs.
Caliper Bolts 90 ft. lbs.
Tie rod 85 ft. lbs.
Drag link 85 ft. lbs.
Track bar 125 ft. lbs.
Upper Control Arms 75 ft. lbs.
Lower Control Arms 125 ft. lbs.
Lower Shocks 56 ft. lbs.
Wheels 100-125 ft. lbs


My write-up does not include the install of gears, lockers or any other housing upgrades. Please seek your closest reputable gear specialist before installing your new housing!

Install Guide

Step 1

Park Jeep on level ground and prepare for axle housing removal.

• Pull the e-brake up/engage.
• Lightly loosen front wheels lugs with 19mm Socket or 3/4 and lug key if you have locks.
• Jack the Jeep up high enough off the ground and install the jack stands.
• Once done, now remove all the loosened wheel lugs and place wheels/tires underneath frame of Jeep.


If you are intending on removing the unit bearings in the interest of upgrading your outer axle shafts and you will be using hand tools, loosen axle nut before removing brakes. Easiest way to remove it is to have someone engage foot brake while you break free the axle nut.

Step 2

Remove brake rotors, calipers, and abs sensors.

• Separate abs lines from the brake lines.
• Remove rotor tabs.
• Remove the 2 caliper bolts using 21mm wrench or socket.
• When you remove calipers, use zip ties to hold out of the way to avoid damage to brake lines.
• Slide off brake rotor and put to the side.
• Behind rotors are the abs sensors. Remove with 8mm allen wrench. Once sensor is removed, unclip the abs cable and completely separate it from axle housing.


182 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Step 3

Removing hub assembly.

• Unbolt hub assembly from rear with 13mm. (12 point)
• If you will be upgrading your outer axle shafts, remove center nut off axle with 36mm socket.

Step 4

Remove steering stabilizer from housing and tie rod.

• Use 18mm or 19mm depending on if stock or not to remove.

Step 5

Remove tie rod and drag link.

• Use hammer or sledge to break loose instead of pickle fork. Make sure you hit from side and not the top!
• A few hard hits to outside of taper will break it free.
• Use 21mm for tie rod.
• Use 21mm for drag link at housing only and zip tie out of the way.

Step 6

Removing the knuckles and axles.

• Remove cotter keys from upper and lower castle nuts on ball joints, then remove the upper castle nut but leave lower on slightly. The lower castle nut will keep the knuckle from falling to the ground when breaking free from ball joints.
• Remove the abs brackets/upper ball joint castle nut using 22mm wrench.
• Now break free the knuckle and remove.
• Slide axles out.
• Use 22mm socket or wrench for upper castle nuts.
• Use 27mm socket or wrench for lower castle nuts.


182 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Step 7

Remove the 4 driveshaft bolts at the yoke and zip tie the driveshaft out of the way.

• Use 15mm to remove the driveshaft bolts.
• If you started with a Rubicon housing, you will reuse stock yoke. You will have to make a timing mark on the yoke and the driveshaft so that they can be realigned properly.

Step 8

Remove stock or aftermarket sway bar links from housing.

• Just unbolt from housing sides only and push up out of the way.
• Use 18mm and 19mm wrench to remove.

Step 9

Disconnect the vent hose and two sensors from housing.

• This is on the driver side of housing.
• You won’t have this if you are on a 30 housing. (Non Rubicon)

Step 10

Unbolt the track bar from housing only and zip tie out of the way.

• Use 21mm to remove.

Step 11

Remove both lower shocks.

• Use 18mm to remove lower shock.

Step 12

Remove spring retainers and remove springs.

• Use 14mm to remove.

Step 13

Unbolt the upper control arm from driver side housing and push out of way.

• Use 18mm to remove.

Step 14

Unbolt the upper control arm from passenger side and push out of the way.

• Use 18mm to remove.


• When you start reinstalling everything, remember that the control arm bolt is longer than the shock bolt, so do not mix up.

Step 15

Unbolt both lower control arms and push down out of the way.

• Use 21mm to remove.

CONGRATUALTIONS!! Your housing is now free and ready to be removed from underneath of Jeep.

• When removing from underneath of Jeep, you will have some potential of snagging housing on hanging parts.

Step 16

Place your new drop dead sexy RockJock®44 housing underneath Jeep and prepare for install!

Step 17

Install driver and passenger side upper control arms to housing.

• Use 18mm to install.
• Being that these points are now Johnny Joint equipped, you can go ahead and torque them in the air while it’s easy.
• Torque to 75 Ft. lbs.

Step 18

Install both lower control arms to housing.

• Use 21 mm to install.
• If these points are Johnny Joint equipped, you can go ahead and torque them in the air while it’s easy. The Johnny Joint will pivot - no problem – unlike if they had a bushing that would twist up if they torqued it in the air.
• Torque to 125 Ft. lbs.


182 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Step 19

Reinstall both springs and spring retainers.

• Make sure spring is properly seated into groove.
• Use 14mm to install.
• Forgot to take this photo, so I had pull from another install.

Step 20

Drop track bar down and tighten.

• Use 21mm to install.
• If this point is Johnny Joint equipped, you can go ahead and torque them in the air while it’s easy. The Johnny Joint will pivot - no problem – unlike if they had a bushing that would twist up if they torqued it in the air.
• Torque to 125 Ft. lbs.

Step 21

Reinstall the stock or aftermarket sway bar links.

• Use 18mm and 19mm to install.

Step 22

Reinstall the shocks.

• Use 18mm to tighten lower.
• Do not torque until Jeep is on ground.

Step 23

Reconnect and tighten locker sensor, install breather tube and both sensors.

• If you started with Rubicon housing.

Step 24

Reinstall driveshaft back into yoke.

• Use 15mm to tighten.
• Torque to 81 ft. lbs.
• If there is alignment marks, make sure to realign before installing.
• Since I started with a Dana 30 I swapped my yoke to a stock 44 round yoke, which you can buy from any dealership or pick up at local shop.

Step 25

Reinstalling knuckles.

• Slide knuckles into place and screw on lower castle nuts to ball joints.
• Install abs brackets and screw on upper castle nuts to ball joints.
• Torque lower ball joint to 100 ft. lbs. with 27mm socket.
• Torque upper ball joint to 85 ft. lbs. with 22mm socket.
• Install new cotter pins and bend into place.
• Tighten slightly if holes don’t line up, never loosen!

Step 26

Make sure zerk fittings are installed into ball joints, then grease upper and lower ball joints.

• Make sure ball joint grease boots are properly installed.


182 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Step 27

Install axles.

• If you are upgrading axles you will need to swap unit bearing over to new axles.
• Lightly grease splines before installing.
• Go very slow when installing so you don’t damage the inner seals.
• Reattach the abs sensors. You may need to do before axles are all the way in.
• Once axle is installed, line up bolt holes.
• Attach axles with the factory bolts and tighten down hub nuts with 13mm 12 point socket to 75 ft. lbs.
• Tighten abs sensor with 8mm allen head.
• Attach abs wires to brackets with zip ties.
• Install center nut with 36mm socket and torque to 100 ft. lbs.

Step 28

Install rotors and calipers.

If you are upgrading axles you will need to swap unit bearing over to the new axles at this time.
• Slide rotors on.
• Reinstall calipers using the 2 factory bolts. (Use one lug nut to hold rotor in place while installing.)
• Use 21mm socket to install.
• Torque caliper bolts to 90 ft. lbs.
• Zip tie abs lines to brake lines.

Step 29

Reattach drag link to passenger side knuckle, reinstall tie rod and steering stabilizer.

• Use 21mm to install.
• Torque tie rod to 85 ft. lbs.
• Torque drag link to 85 ft. lbs.
• Use 18mm or 19mm depending on if stock or not to reinstall stabilizer.

Step 30

Install gear oil.

• Currie Enterprises® recommends 9+ gear oil for all of their front ends. (NON SYNTHETIC!)

Step 31

Install wheels and tires and screw on lugs.

• Use 19mm or ¾.
• Do not torque until Jeep is on the ground.

Step 32

Finishing up.

• Remove jack stands and lower Jeep to ground.
• Remove jack and torque wheels and tires to 100-125 ft. lbs.
• Torque lower shocks to 56 ft. lbs.

Congratulations!!! Your new BAD *** ROCKJOCK® 44 HOUSING IS INSTALLED!!!!!

• Please make sure to take your Jeep in for a proper alignment before enjoying your new housing!
• Make sure to check all of your torques after 300 miles.

Currie Enterprises® Website & Facebook Page.

Currie Enterprises - Custom Rearends, Jeep/Off-road Parts, Crate Rearends, 4x4 Rearends

Absolute Offroad® Website & Facebook Page.


My Facebook Pages.


Thank you for taking the time to look over my write-up. If you have any questions please feel free to ask on thread or PM. You may also contact me at [email protected]

I would also like to thank Jason at Absolute Offroad® for taking the time out of his weekend to help with this install!
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