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I started my 4 ½ Synergy stage III left yesterday and have a couple of questions. I haven’t installed the stuff in the second box yet (it should be here tomorrow). I got the springs, bump stops, rear shock relocation brackets, rear track bar relocation bracket and fox shocks installed and ran it around the block. Nothing fell off so I guess I must have done something right (this is the first time I’ve installed a lift kit).

First question: When I put the rear control arms on should I shift the rear axle back a couple of inches? Also did you guys cut the stock rock rails back a couple of inches? See pic.

Second question is regarding the front fox CD shocks. I twisted the reservoir out a little so it won’t hit the top of the shock mount (where it’s welded to the frame) but I’m not 100% sure where to run the brake line and ABS wire so they don’t get caught on the top of the reservoir when the wheel gets stuffed.

Third question is the rear shock relocation brackets. I used the middle of the three set of holes because I’d already installed the springs before I read the part about stuffing the wheel to figure out the correct position. Will that work?


Awesome stuff guys, I’m really happy with everything so far and I’m looking forward to taking it out on a trail and trying to break it ;)




 
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Damn Alec, you'll soon need to increase the height of your garage door! Nice lookin' jeep!
Funny you mention the garage door. When I finished the rear I was thinking there’s no frigging way it’s going to clear the garage door but it had about an inch to spare.
 

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First question: When I put the rear control arms on should I shift the rear axle back a couple of inches? Also did you guys cut the stock rock rails back a couple of inches? See pic.
No, I'm not sure on the exact figures that Poly give in their instructions, but based on my calculations the rear axle needs to go back about 5/8" - 3/4". I think you'll find your will still have to trim the rock rails and corner of that panel. If you go back 2" your springs will be messed up. I'll be doing my control arms on Tuesday and will let you know what measurements I use.


Second question is regarding the front fox CD shocks. I twisted the reservoir out a little so it won’t hit the top of the shock mount (where it’s welded to the frame) but I’m not 100% sure where to run the brake line and ABS wire so they don’t get caught on the top of the reservoir when the wheel gets stuffed.
Put a twist in the brake hose so that when it compresses it twists out of the way. That is what I did and it works well. I also extended all my abs/lockers wires.


Third question is the rear shock relocation brackets. I used the middle of the three set of holes because I’d already installed the springs before I read the part about stuffing the wheel to figure out the correct position. Will that work?
Yes.


Awesome stuff guys, I’m really happy with everything so far and I’m looking forward to taking it out on a trail and trying to break it ;)
Nice work Alec, looks good :smokin::smokin::smokin:
 

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This is how I trimmed the panel in front of the rear wheel. I did it before adding teh Poly rockers, and may have come back a little more if doing it again now.
 

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It's hard to see in this pic, but I put a slight twist in the front brake lines so that when it compresses up it twists back away from the shock.

I took a pic of the rear ones which have got a much more pronounced twist in them, (the fronts have nowhere near as much), but it will give you the idea.
 

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Thanks Phil. Looks like I’ll be playing with the grinder again this afternoon ;)
 

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We do not have complete kit instructions done yet but each component has their own instructions. If there was no instructions with the parts they are all available on our website with each part. The control arm and shock bracket instructions will have our recommended lengths. I assume you are running 37" tires, 4" bumpstop spacers and a new CV rear driveline? You should make the lowers 20.25, uppers 18.25, you can probably mount the shock brackets all the way up with the fox shocks. Make any pinion angle adjustments with the upper links. This should center the wheels in the fender but you may have to trim the body in the front of the fender opening and the stock rock sliders. If you push the axle back any further, the bumpstops will hit the track bar bracket on the frame.

The brake lines have a short 90 deg hard line at the caliper, feel free to tweak that to position the brake line where it needs to go. I will have to check out those front shocks to see what you can do with the brake lines.
 
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We do not have complete kit instructions done yet but each component has their own instructions. If there was no instructions with the parts they are all available on our website with each part. The control arm and shock bracket instructions will have our recommended lengths. I assume you are running 37" tires, 4" bumpstop spacers and a new CV rear driveline? You should make the lowers 20.25, uppers 18.25, you can probably mount the shock brackets all the way up with the fox shocks. Make any pinion angle adjustments with the upper links. This should center the wheels in the fender but you may have to trim the body in the front of the fender opening and the stock rock sliders. If you push the axle back any further, the bumpstops will hit the track bar bracket on the frame.

The brake lines have a short 90 deg hard line at the caliper, feel free to tweak that to position the brake line where it needs to go. I will have to check out those front shocks to see what you can do with the brake lines.
Thanks. 37s and JE REEL driveshafts.
 

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I just installed some Poly upper control arms and I have to say I just love the ability to adjust them in place, it makes it so much easier :)
 

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It's hard to see in this pic, but I put a slight twist in the front brake lines so that when it compresses up it twists back away from the shock.

I took a pic of the rear ones which have got a much more pronounced twist in them, (the fronts have nowhere near as much), but it will give you the idea.
Different lift, but same problem. I twisted the rear brake lines around to get them away from the tires. After flexing the suspension, one of them popped back towards the tire, and rubbed a hole in the line.

Brake peddle hit the floor...:eek::eek::eek:

I found that bending the hard brake line portions slightly inward prevents this from happening.

Hope that makes sense.
 

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Different lift, but same problem. I twisted the rear brake lines around to get them away from the tires. After flexing the suspension, one of them popped back towards the tire, and rubbed a hole in the line.
If it's twisted it won't do that. If it just shaped in one direction it will.
 
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