JKOwners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, my next project is replacing all my control arms (in before "what a douche? you still have stock arms?") A buddy in my club found these but, I haven't found too much info online. Anybody ever deal with them before? Thoughts? Ideas?

Core 4x4

I know that for the extra $400 I could have the Metal Cloaks but, $400 is a lotta loot.:shitstorm:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
I would take your time and do it right the first time. Don't know much about the ones in your link but the big companies will often stand behind their products if you have issues.
Not sure about a e bay company/ product.

I did the MC's up front first while I save for the rear. Have had them for quite a while now and they are still going strong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,409 Posts
MetalCloak are the ones I run now. The flex and comfort of them is amazing. Wouldn't run any other arms after running these.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,696 Posts
Johnny Joints are awesome and a part with a proven track record. The Johnny Joint doesn't go through a lot of changes every year because they work just the way they are. They are inexpensive and easy to rebuild if necessary.

I have Currie control arms all the way around and like them. I am very curious (yeah Marcus if you read this, I said curious. Haha) about the MC arms though. It seems they have aligned everything correctly which is a huge deal in my book. I do find that the Currie arms are slightly misaligned to begin with and it causes a little rub on a couple of the ca mounts but not to the point that it's problematic. None of this mattered that much until I crushed one of the front mounts and now I have a little bind which I might not have if the joints were aligned better to begin with.

I would avoid the ebay thing and go directly to Currie or talk to Marcus at River City Offroad and see if he can get you some Currie control arms. I personally wouldn't install a control arm without having a high quality joint like the Johnny Joints on both ends but that's just me.

Of course you won't have a similar flex joint on the front upper axle side ca's unless you change the factory bushings out on the axle which I highly recommend. Again, you can get a Currie front end housing kit to do that and it's actually pretty easy to install if you can weld. If you can't weld then its still a pretty small job so it wouldn't cost much to have someone tack it all up for ya. Anyway, that's my .02 cents for what it's worth. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,419 Posts
There isn't going to be a lot of variation with any short arm kit since they connect at factory positions.

Considering that the arms in question are DOM with Currie joints, I'd say they are a safe bet.
 

·
Registered
2 door 2010 JK sport
Joined
·
913 Posts
So, my next project is replacing all my control arms (in before "what a douche? you still have stock arms?") A buddy in my club found these but, I haven't found too much info online. Anybody ever deal with them before? Thoughts? Ideas?

Core 4x4

I know that for the extra $400 I could have the Metal Cloaks but, $400 is a lotta loot.:shitstorm:
Grab the MC ones you can afford, and save up till you can afford (or need) the others.
 

·
JKO Dickhead
Joined
·
3,522 Posts
They actually seem decent, but for that price, make sure and go with a RK or Currie or MC for piece of mind
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
maybe just start with all 4 lowers and save for the uppers. currie is quality stuff, but it sounds to me like you want the MC arms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
Johnny Joints are awesome and a part with a proven track record. The Johnny Joint doesn't go through a lot of changes every year because they work just the way they are. They are inexpensive and easy to rebuild if necessary.

I have Currie control arms all the way around and like them. I am very curious (yeah Marcus if you read this, I said curious. Haha) about the MC arms though. It seems they have aligned everything correctly which is a huge deal in my book. I do find that the Currie arms are slightly misaligned to begin with and it causes a little rub on a couple of the ca mounts but not to the point that it's problematic. None of this mattered that much until I crushed one of the front mounts and now I have a little bind which I might not have if the joints were aligned better to begin with.

I would avoid the ebay thing and go directly to Currie or talk to Marcus at River City Offroad and see if he can get you some Currie control arms. I personally wouldn't install a control arm without having a high quality joint like the Johnny Joints on both ends but that's just me.

Of course you won't have a similar flex joint on the front upper axle side ca's unless you change the factory bushings out on the axle which I highly recommend. Again, you can get a Currie front end housing kit to do that and it's actually pretty easy to install if you can weld. If you can't weld then its still a pretty small job so it wouldn't cost much to have someone tack it all up for ya. Anyway, that's my .02 cents for what it's worth. Good luck
What are you curious about on the MC arms? I have been running the fronts for quite a while. Have over 10k on them and lots of wheeling trips.
Got plenty of pics of them at different angles if you want to check them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Is your entire JK suspension stock? If so, why replace the stock control arms with aftermarket control arms? Sure, you can add durability ... but if you ever plan on modifying the suspension in the future you're looking at replacing those control arms again with another set...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,230 Posts
(in before "what a douche? you still have stock arms?")
Crap, I better go get rid of my stock arms if people are talkin' like that.




;)

Just what exactly are you looking to gain by up and replacing all of your arms? Are you buying longer arms for the rear to push the axle back? Do you think they're holding back your available articulation much?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Just what exactly are you looking to gain by up and replacing all of your arms? Are you buying longer arms for the rear to push the axle back? Do you think they're holding back your available articulation much?
Currently have 2.5" RE lift (netted about 3.25") w/ 35" KMs. It gets me around all right but there have been a few times where I know my travel has been restricted. My main reasoning for doing arms next is that once it's paid off (5 payments), I want to upgrade to 37s, possibly 4" lift, new shafts, and re-gear. I don't know if my logic is flawed or not but, it seems that arms are a logical next step.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Currently have 2.5" RE lift (netted about 3.25") w/ 35" KMs. It gets me around all right but there have been a few times where I know my travel has been restricted. My main reasoning for doing arms next is that once it's paid off (5 payments), I want to upgrade to 37s, possibly 4" lift, new shafts, and re-gear. I don't know if my logic is flawed or not but, it seems that arms are a logical next step.
If I were you, I'd do the control arm and spring swap at the same time. Sure, adjustable arms can buy you some flexibility in changing your ride height as you swap springs ... but if you can match the springs and CAs (knowing a spring swap is on your build roadmap), why not wait and swap both at the same time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,230 Posts
I'd imagine your shocks are going to be what is hanging you up first. Too many people throw off the shelf bump stop and shock configurations on their rig and don't pay attention to what is actually stopping your articulation in each direction. They are not one-size-fits-all.

If you buy arms, ensure you get longer rear arms that will allow you to recenter the rear axle...especially if you plan on adding more lift to it in the future. Not all aftermarket arms are intended to do that..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
If I were you, I'd do the control arm and spring swap at the same time. Sure, adjustable arms can buy you some flexibility in changing your ride height as you swap springs ... but if you can match the springs and CAs (knowing a spring swap is on your build roadmap), why not wait and swap both at the same time?
Problem being, can't afford to buy both at the same time. And knowing myself, there's absolutely no way I'd let parts sit in the shed. Valid points though, it's definitely something I'll consider.

I'd imagine your shocks are going to be what is hanging you up first. Too many people throw off the shelf bump stop and shock configurations on their rig and don't pay attention to what is actually stopping your articulation in each direction. They are not one-size-fits-all.

If you buy arms, ensure you get longer rear arms that will allow you to recenter the rear axle...especially if you plan on adding more lift to it in the future. Not all aftermarket arms are intended to do that..
Honestly, I've never paid attention to that kind of stuff until the last few weeks. If/when I go to a higher lift, I'm going to be doing A LOT more research.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
990 Posts
I'd imagine your shocks are going to be what is hanging you up first. Too many people throw off the shelf bump stop and shock configurations on their rig and don't pay attention to what is actually stopping your articulation in each direction. They are not one-size-fits-all.

If you buy arms, ensure you get longer rear arms that will allow you to recenter the rear axle...especially if you plan on adding more lift to it in the future. Not all aftermarket arms are intended to do that..

This. Take a look at what Goody's rig can do on stock arms, I really don't think you need them right now. Play around with your shocks and bump stops and you'll probably have good results.

I'd also wait until you do the spring swap to do the control arms, you'll know exactly what sizes to get, plus you'll have the suspension torn apart anyways.
While those arms seem alright, look at larger manufactures so you know exactly what your getting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
And i believe goody is running 2.5 inches of lift and 37s... What's your reason for wanting to go so big? You can fit 37s even with no lift with the proper trimming and fenders

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
And i believe goody is running 2.5 inches of lift and 37s... What's your reason for wanting to go so big? You can fit 37s even with no lift with the proper trimming and fenders
I could easily stuff 37s right now but, I'd like the extra bit of clearance. At the trails around here I tend to drag the belly quite a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,230 Posts
And i believe goody is running 2.5 inches of lift and 37s... What's your reason for wanting to go so big? You can fit 37s even with no lift with the proper trimming and fenders

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Ehhh it's a bit more than that these days. I needed about 3.25, but I'm an easy 4" suspension and 1" BL at the moment. I got over the whole "log CG" fad, got the belly off the ground and am much happier with that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,696 Posts
What are you curious about on the MC arms? I have been running the fronts for quite a while. Have over 10k on them and lots of wheeling trips.
Got plenty of pics of them at different angles if you want to check them out.
Well I was most curious about how well the joints flex, hold up to hard wheeling and how quiet they are. Then I was also interested in how they aligned everything to fit. Just seems like a really nice arm. If you wanted to post some pics up that would be cool. Not looking to change anything at the moment but have been wondering how the MC stuff is fairing now that it's been out awhile. I appreciate it man!!
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top