Thank You Old Dogger! I will check that resource out and report back.^^^ This should help!
P06DD Code – What Does It Mean & How To Fix It - OBD2PROS
A P06DD code is caused by an PCM (Power Control Module) receiving a signal from the engine oil pressure sensor that the oil pressure is too low that isobd2pros.com
Code P06DD question, oil pump or oil cooler assembly... help!
Hello everyone, I have a P06DD question to put out there. My 2012 2 door:
![Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light]()
has the dreaded P06DD code, "dual stage oil pump stuck low." I've read probably 90% of the threads out there on the issue, and for starters, after reading all this material, I tried the two basics of verifying correct oil and filter.
With the code persisting, I then installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and the oil pressure is always within spec (around 20 psi warm @ idle, up to 60psi @ 3500 RPM. The engine does cut out, but only sometimes, at 3500 RPM, which fits with what the code is saying, i.e. that the PCM is limiting the RPM's to protect it the engine when higher pressure is required.
So at this point, I have narrowed it down to either the oil cooler assembly/ oil pressure sensor and/or the oil pump and solenoid. From what I understand, there is no reasonable way to test either one, you have to just dig in on a Saturday and replace one of them, while praying the whole time that will solve the issue. I am prepared to replace both if I have to, but herein lies my question:
Which one, oil pump or oil cooler assembly, is most likely to be the problem? I'm leaning towards the oil cooler/ pressure sensor because the engine cutout @ 3500 RPM is inconsistent, but I realize that might be faulty reasoning and have nothing to do with it.
Thanks in advance, any advice is greatly appreciated!
has the dreaded P06DD code, "dual stage oil pump stuck low." I've read probably 90% of the threads out there on the issue, and for starters, after reading all this material, I tried the two basics of verifying correct oil and filter.
With the code persisting, I then installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and the oil pressure is always within spec (around 20 psi warm @ idle, up to 60psi @ 3500 RPM. The engine does cut out, but only sometimes, at 3500 RPM, which fits with what the code is saying, i.e. that the PCM is limiting the RPM's to protect it the engine when higher pressure is required.
So at this point, I have narrowed it down to either the oil cooler assembly/ oil pressure sensor and/or the oil pump and solenoid. From what I understand, there is no reasonable way to test either one, you have to just dig in on a Saturday and replace one of them, while praying the whole time that will solve the issue. I am prepared to replace both if I have to, but herein lies my question:
Which one, oil pump or oil cooler assembly, is most likely to be the problem? I'm leaning towards the oil cooler/ pressure sensor because the engine cutout @ 3500 RPM is inconsistent, but I realize that might be faulty reasoning and have nothing to do with it.
Thanks in advance, any advice is greatly appreciated!
1 - 6 of 8 Posts
Ok well, thd good new is that I have shiny new oil cooler installed that doesn't leak. And also there's also a new set of plugs in there, it was time and I figured why not since I had the top off. The whole process was surprsingly easy, only took about 3 hours start to finish, including the plugs.
The bad news is, the CEL light popped on as I pulled out onto the road, with that spine tingling little "ding" that basically says, "you're attempted repair and all those hours failed to fix the problem." Same PO6DD code, I guess I should be thankful that no additional codes chimed in.
Not that these will really help anyone, but a few photos for reference.
Old cooler in:
![Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive air manifold]()
![Blue Gas Electric blue Plastic Auto part]()
New one in:
![Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Automotive design]()
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior]()
Frustrating, this whole process. I will now move on to replacing the two stage oil pump solenoid, hoping that takes care of the problem.
Unfortunately, I just dishearteningly read a post from some poor soul who had his JK into the dealer a full 7 times to fix his P06DD, and it still wasn't fixed. He had literally tried every recommended fix for the problem, and his engine was still cutting out violently in the higher RPM's with the code tenaciously persisting. If the new Dorman Solenoid doesn't fix my issue, not sure what the plan will be.
Jeep runs alot better with new Bosch iridium plugs in BTW. I hadn't done them since I've had it, so who knows how long the existing NGK set was in there. Evidently they were past their prime.
The bad news is, the CEL light popped on as I pulled out onto the road, with that spine tingling little "ding" that basically says, "you're attempted repair and all those hours failed to fix the problem." Same PO6DD code, I guess I should be thankful that no additional codes chimed in.
Not that these will really help anyone, but a few photos for reference.
Old cooler in:
New one in:
Frustrating, this whole process. I will now move on to replacing the two stage oil pump solenoid, hoping that takes care of the problem.
Unfortunately, I just dishearteningly read a post from some poor soul who had his JK into the dealer a full 7 times to fix his P06DD, and it still wasn't fixed. He had literally tried every recommended fix for the problem, and his engine was still cutting out violently in the higher RPM's with the code tenaciously persisting. If the new Dorman Solenoid doesn't fix my issue, not sure what the plan will be.
Jeep runs alot better with new Bosch iridium plugs in BTW. I hadn't done them since I've had it, so who knows how long the existing NGK set was in there. Evidently they were past their prime.
Just put in the new solenoid this morning. Pretty easy job, only took about 3 hours, including the set up time for the oil pan RTV. On that note, I used the Mopar 3 bond:
![Drinkware Automotive tire Fluid Liquid Drink]()
Old solenoid:
![Electrical wiring Gas Automotive lighting Wire Electrical supply]()
New one:
![Circuit component Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Gas Cable]()
Installed:
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle brake Rim Auto part]()
Here's a few thoughts about the process if it helps anyone down the road. The whole job is really straightforward. There were a few things I thought might be worth passing on.
1) the oil dlpstick bolt. I've seen where people take the front passenger tire and splash guard off to get to it. It is hard to get to, but you can get a 3/8 13mm socket on there without taking all that off. Helps to have a ratchet with a hinged head, but it is doable. Break it loose then you can fiddle it off with your fingers if it's not too rusty. A finger ratchet works if it's loose but sticky.
2) I've seen people fight getting the oil pan off because the original Mopar 3 bond is quite adhesive. There's an ear sticking out of the oil pan on the front passenger side corner of it. You can see it if you look down through the engine bay. I stuck a 3' long wooden dowel down through some gaps around the alternator, rested the tip of it on the ear, then tapped it nicely with a 5lb sledge hammer. The pan popped right off.
3) Loosen the oil pump to pass the new plug and wire between it and the block. I left one bolt on the far right corner, took three off, and it hung down just enough to pass the plug through on the left.
4) Wire insulation. The wires coming off my solenoid had lost insulation where the christmas tree/ zip tie retainer holds the two wires onto the engine block, just past the plug. The copper was exposed there, and also the insulation was cracked and missing where the wires exit the solenoid plug. I thought for sure I'd found the PO6DD problem right there, but a continuity check verified that the wires were still intact and carrying current. The made me wonder about the condition of the wires further up. Main point here, check the wiring carefully wherever you can, especially in those two spots.
5) the most tedious thing was getting the new solenoid plug back through the block. You have to finnagle it up into a small cavern, past the left of the timing chain, where the hole is on the left, about 5 inches up. No room for fingers unless you have long thin ones. Making it harder is that the front axle is directly in your line of sight as you look up into the block, so you cant see up in there to line the plug up with the hole. You basically have to go by luck and feel. I ended up getting some super long needle nose pliers to grasp the plug with, and after about 10 annoying minutes of finagling with it, it finally went in.
I am now waiting for the 3 Bond to dry. Going to put oil in tomorrow, fire it up and see if that (insert expletive here) code is gone. I will post results.
As I was laying under the jeep waiting for the RTV to set up, I was remember all the negative comments people make about the complexity of jeeps nowadays as they doggedly try and hunt down elusive electrical problems and fix codes. I think it actually might be a good trade off. My jeep has almost 200,000 miles. It doesn't burn any oil. It starts immediately, every time, no matter what the weather. It runs perfectly, always. It has the same amount of power as it did in 2012. It drives beautifully on the freeway even with the lift and 35's. It's comfortable to sit it. It's safe for my kids and wife to ride it. I've owned four Cj-5's, a CJ-7, a YJ, and two 4.0 Tj's. The CJ's were just miserable to drive on the freeway, and I would never take my kids in those rigs on any long freeway rides due to safety concerns. And the CJ's certainly didn't last 200k miles without alot of work. The Yj and Tj's were better, and lower maintenance with higher durability, but still uncomfortable to drive on any long trip. The JK is far beyond above all of them, in every area. Is it a pain to deal with all the wires and computers and solenoids? Yeah, but all in all, definitely worth it. Why am I sharing this here? No idea.
Old solenoid:
New one:
Installed:
Here's a few thoughts about the process if it helps anyone down the road. The whole job is really straightforward. There were a few things I thought might be worth passing on.
1) the oil dlpstick bolt. I've seen where people take the front passenger tire and splash guard off to get to it. It is hard to get to, but you can get a 3/8 13mm socket on there without taking all that off. Helps to have a ratchet with a hinged head, but it is doable. Break it loose then you can fiddle it off with your fingers if it's not too rusty. A finger ratchet works if it's loose but sticky.
2) I've seen people fight getting the oil pan off because the original Mopar 3 bond is quite adhesive. There's an ear sticking out of the oil pan on the front passenger side corner of it. You can see it if you look down through the engine bay. I stuck a 3' long wooden dowel down through some gaps around the alternator, rested the tip of it on the ear, then tapped it nicely with a 5lb sledge hammer. The pan popped right off.
3) Loosen the oil pump to pass the new plug and wire between it and the block. I left one bolt on the far right corner, took three off, and it hung down just enough to pass the plug through on the left.
4) Wire insulation. The wires coming off my solenoid had lost insulation where the christmas tree/ zip tie retainer holds the two wires onto the engine block, just past the plug. The copper was exposed there, and also the insulation was cracked and missing where the wires exit the solenoid plug. I thought for sure I'd found the PO6DD problem right there, but a continuity check verified that the wires were still intact and carrying current. The made me wonder about the condition of the wires further up. Main point here, check the wiring carefully wherever you can, especially in those two spots.
5) the most tedious thing was getting the new solenoid plug back through the block. You have to finnagle it up into a small cavern, past the left of the timing chain, where the hole is on the left, about 5 inches up. No room for fingers unless you have long thin ones. Making it harder is that the front axle is directly in your line of sight as you look up into the block, so you cant see up in there to line the plug up with the hole. You basically have to go by luck and feel. I ended up getting some super long needle nose pliers to grasp the plug with, and after about 10 annoying minutes of finagling with it, it finally went in.
I am now waiting for the 3 Bond to dry. Going to put oil in tomorrow, fire it up and see if that (insert expletive here) code is gone. I will post results.
As I was laying under the jeep waiting for the RTV to set up, I was remember all the negative comments people make about the complexity of jeeps nowadays as they doggedly try and hunt down elusive electrical problems and fix codes. I think it actually might be a good trade off. My jeep has almost 200,000 miles. It doesn't burn any oil. It starts immediately, every time, no matter what the weather. It runs perfectly, always. It has the same amount of power as it did in 2012. It drives beautifully on the freeway even with the lift and 35's. It's comfortable to sit it. It's safe for my kids and wife to ride it. I've owned four Cj-5's, a CJ-7, a YJ, and two 4.0 Tj's. The CJ's were just miserable to drive on the freeway, and I would never take my kids in those rigs on any long freeway rides due to safety concerns. And the CJ's certainly didn't last 200k miles without alot of work. The Yj and Tj's were better, and lower maintenance with higher durability, but still uncomfortable to drive on any long trip. The JK is far beyond above all of them, in every area. Is it a pain to deal with all the wires and computers and solenoids? Yeah, but all in all, definitely worth it. Why am I sharing this here? No idea.
1 - 6 of 8 Posts
