Just put in the new solenoid this morning. Pretty easy job, only took about 3 hours, including the set up time for the oil pan RTV. On that note, I used the Mopar 3 bond:
Here's a few thoughts about the process if it helps anyone down the road. The whole job is really straightforward. There were a few things I thought might be worth passing on.
1) the oil dlpstick bolt. I've seen where people take the front passenger tire and splash guard off to get to it. It is hard to get to, but you can get a 3/8 13mm socket on there without taking all that off. Helps to have a ratchet with a hinged head, but it is doable. Break it loose then you can fiddle it off with your fingers if it's not too rusty. A finger ratchet works if it's loose but sticky.
2) I've seen people fight getting the oil pan off because the original Mopar 3 bond is quite adhesive. There's an ear sticking out of the oil pan on the front passenger side corner of it. You can see it if you look down through the engine bay. I stuck a 3' long wooden dowel down through some gaps around the alternator, rested the tip of it on the ear, then tapped it nicely with a 5lb sledge hammer. The pan popped right off.
3) Loosen the oil pump to pass the new plug and wire between it and the block. I left one bolt on the far right corner, took three off, and it hung down just enough to pass the plug through on the left.
4) Wire insulation. The wires coming off my solenoid had lost insulation where the christmas tree/ zip tie retainer holds the two wires onto the engine block, just past the plug. The copper was exposed there, and also the insulation was cracked and missing where the wires exit the solenoid plug. I thought for sure I'd found the PO6DD problem right there, but a continuity check verified that the wires were still intact and carrying current. The made me wonder about the condition of the wires further up. Main point here, check the wiring carefully wherever you can, especially in those two spots.
5) the most tedious thing was getting the new solenoid plug back through the block. You have to finnagle it up into a small cavern, past the left of the timing chain, where the hole is on the left, about 5 inches up. No room for fingers unless you have long thin ones. Making it harder is that the front axle is directly in your line of sight as you look up into the block, so you cant see up in there to line the plug up with the hole. You basically have to go by luck and feel. I ended up getting some super long needle nose pliers to grasp the plug with, and after about 10 annoying minutes of finagling with it, it finally went in.
I am now waiting for the 3 Bond to dry. Going to put oil in tomorrow, fire it up and see if that (insert expletive here) code is gone. I will post results.
As I was laying under the jeep waiting for the RTV to set up, I was remember all the negative comments people make about the complexity of jeeps nowadays as they doggedly try and hunt down elusive electrical problems and fix codes. I think it actually might be a good trade off. My jeep has almost 200,000 miles. It doesn't burn any oil. It starts immediately, every time, no matter what the weather. It runs perfectly, always. It has the same amount of power as it did in 2012. It drives beautifully on the freeway even with the lift and 35's. It's comfortable to sit it. It's safe for my kids and wife to ride it. I've owned four Cj-5's, a CJ-7, a YJ, and two 4.0 Tj's. The CJ's were just miserable to drive on the freeway, and I would never take my kids in those rigs on any long freeway rides due to safety concerns. And the CJ's certainly didn't last 200k miles without alot of work. The Yj and Tj's were better, and lower maintenance with higher durability, but still uncomfortable to drive on any long trip. The JK is far beyond above all of them, in every area. Is it a pain to deal with all the wires and computers and solenoids? Yeah, but all in all, definitely worth it. Why am I sharing this here? No idea.