Did you take different measurements prior to removing the CA’s ? The idea is to position the axle back to the same spot using the lowers. Then caster is easily set after.
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Did you take different measurements prior to removing the CA’s ? The idea is to position the axle back to the same spot using the lowers. Then caster is easily set after.
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Good video, Clayton makes stout shit to hold up to abuse.
What skid system did you go with? Will it work with the stock skid still in place?Thank you, I really appreciate your compliments. I am about to have the second video published and I definitely learned how to remove the gas tank. I had never done that before on a JK (did a TJ years ago) and the fuel line connectors have gotten complicated...
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What skid system did you go with? Will it work with the stock skid still in place?
Even with aftermarket "heavy duty" gas tank skid that thing will get beat to shit as well.
What made you go with the radius arm setup rather than the 3 link version they sell?
I'm guessing you wanted a simpler install, and not as much messing with the exhaust, but you had to do that a bit anyways
Most, or even, all of the radius arm setups I've seen for TJ/JK's have been pretty bad at the end of the day, and usually ended up not flexing well, and/or ripping the brackets off the control arms or axle
Looking forward to the other videos :smile2:
I’ve had the Clayton kit since it was released and been really happy with it. Adam and the crew over at Clayton are real responsive to questions and concerns and been right there to assist when I’ve broken something.
I’ve been running the Bilstein 5100’s and they been fine, eventually I’ll go with a coilover, but that is way down the to-do list.
I do suggest you ditch the radius arms and go with the 3-link. It will be worth it.
LOL, That’s exactly what I said after I saw Clayton released the 3-Link.I would consider the 3-link when I move to 1-tons. I don’t think I will be disappointed with the radius arm setup but time will tell. Maybe at some point I can change it out and do a honest comparison between the two setups.
LOL, That’s exactly what I said after I saw Clayton released the 3-Link.
This week the XD60 and D80 are in along with 40’s.
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Did you put a fumoto valve in? If not you should next oil change.
Make sure you get the one with the long nozzle, it makes putting the damm tube on a lot easier. Trust me on this one.I just looked that up and it’s awesome!! I wouldn’t run one without a skid though.
I will have to invest in one
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I didn’t do the 3-link yet. Im still in the middle of other upgrades. Also, I’m curious about this Lock-n-Load upper arm that Metalcloak makes. In simple terms they take the passenger upper arm and when off road, there’s a spring that gives under load. Eliminating the binding. However, I’m not home for another week, and I’d need to lengthen the arm an inch or two to work. Metalcloak claims it has an operating range of 16-17 inches, but the Clayton arms are set closer to 19.That’s a good way to spend some change!!! Exactly what I would do! How did you do the truss bracket for the front 3-link with prorock XD?