Cheap and Easy Hard Top Hoist

352428 Views 69 Replies 45 Participants Last post by wxman58, May 1, 2019

MSUJeep

Discussion Starter · Jun 2, 2011 (Edited by Moderator)

5

Seems to be a lot of you that are like me and don't want to drop big $$$ on a hardtop hoist, so I thought I'd throw this idea out for y'all. I have done this in two different garages for both my two-door and four-door, and it is very secure.

I screwed four eyebolts into the ceiling joists in my garage. When I back into the garage, two bolts line up with the front of the hardtop and two with the rear. With the back glass up, I run tie-down straps (non-ratcheting type) from the rear eye bolts, through the gap between the glass and the top, under the top, and hook them to the front eye bolts. Then I un-bolt the top and pull the straps tight. The top will lift right off and hang securely out of the way. I lift mine high enough that I can pull straight into the garage with enough clearance between the top and my hood.

*Note: I used the chain to hook the front of the straps because the straps weren't quite long enough.

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Stopher

· #21 · Aug 29, 2011

First my tires, now my hoist, you are my personal mod consultant!
I put off doing this all winter (and summer) because I was over thinking it. 4 eyebolts + 2 straps = problem solved.
What size eyebolts did you use? I'm guessing something with 2" of threads would be more than enough, considering my 2-door top is even lighter.

Stopher

· #22 · Aug 30, 2011

Do you have any issues with the strap chaffing on the weather stripping around the top of the rear window? I'm guessing that you just raise/lower slowly, or do you put something in betweeen to allow it to slide easier?

Deep Water Terp

· #23 · Aug 30, 2011

Will you explain what is necessary to lower the top? It looks like you'd have to use a ladder to reach the part of the strap that releases it. Thanks! And it looks great!

MSUJeep

Discussion Starter · #24 · Sep 2, 2011 (Edited)

Stopher said:
First my tires, now my hoist, you are my personal mod consultant!
I put off doing this all winter (and summer) because I was over thinking it. 4 eyebolts + 2 straps = problem solved.
What size eyebolts did you use? I'm guessing something with 2" of threads would be more than enough, considering my 2-door top is even lighter.

Hey man, any time you have a question give me a shout. I have a plethora of information (mostly useless), I'll give you some good/bad advice on any subject. lol.

The eyebolts are the largest ones that Lowes sells in the hardware section. Maybe an inch and a half thread 3/8" dia.

Stopher said:
Do you have any issues with the strap chaffing on the weather stripping around the top of the rear window? I'm guessing that you just raise/lower slowly, or do you put something in betweeen to allow it to slide easier?

No issues. It's pretty tough rubber and the strap's material isn't really abrasive. I do raise and lower slowly and a little at a time between each side (~6" per side until at the level I want).

VADERJKU said:
Any worries about the top bending over time stored in this manner? (I'd be storing mine for about 9 months out of the year) Thanks!

My top is only off between rainy days (week at the most), but I can't imagine any deformation storing it this way for extended amounts of time. The top really is light, and strong, so there's not enough stress on the contact points to cause any damage.

Deep Water Terp said:
Will you explain what is necessary to lower the top? It looks like you'd have to use a ladder to reach the part of the strap that releases it. Thanks! And it looks great!

Lowering is just a matter of pressing the release on the strap while holding the strap's slack to control the speed. I just stand on the back bumper. I'm 6'3" so I might have a little longer reach than most though.

Stopher

· #25 · Sep 3, 2011

3 days stuck indoors, seems like as good of a time as any.
Useless advice?? is there any other type?

Stopher

· #26 · Sep 17, 2011 (Edited)

2

This set up works like a champ!
I spent $25 on two straps (12' is plenty for my 9' garage) and 4 eye screws (5/16" x 4 1/2"). For those with a 2-door I spaced my screws 40" apart from front to rear, and 24" wide, based on rafter location.
Like MSUJeep said, raise and lower about 6" at a time and you are fine, it doesn't shift from side to side. It does like to lower the rear more than the front so after letting each strap out just lift the rear of the top to get it back to level again.

Possible improvement: running a seperate strap under the hardtop with grommets on each end. Make the strap is just long enough to come up about 6" above the top. Then run the cam buckle straps through the eye scres and hook to the grommets on that strap. This prevents the cam buckle strap from having to slide against the rear lift glass seal and it should stay level as your raise and lower. However you would have to pull UP on the straps to raise which could prove to be difficult.
All in all, I love this set up, and for the handfull times a year I get to use it, it will be awesome!
Thanks MSUJeep :beer:

:beer:

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4x4x4

· #27 · Sep 17, 2011 (Edited)

2

Works like a charm. Done this with both my JK's. Simple , cheap, effective.
Typical Jeep...

My old house setup. (same swing hooks) Note: Put the ratchets over the front. Easier to ratchet standing at the front seat and you don't want that heavy piece over your back glass. just sayin. Put your glass down and tape if necessary. The gas rods don't like to be left extended over long periods of time.

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SoCo_Fox

· #28 · Oct 13, 2011 (Edited)

Add me to the list of people who have used this idea successfully.

I used the same pull-type tie-downs, some lengths of chain to make up the extra required length, and some small D-shackles (400# rating for a small 1" or so shackle) to connect the chains to the eyebolts.

I went 30" wide and 38" long (due to ceiling joists) and it worked like a charm.

~SoCo

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nreese

· #29 · May 23, 2012

Are you securing the back of the bolt that is attached to the ceiling or just screwing it in?

BullyWagon

· #30 · May 23, 2012 (Edited)

Add me to the list too. My garage is tight but this worked perfect!

Room Ceiling Building Roof Furniture

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BullyWagon

· #31 · May 23, 2012

nreese said:
Are you securing the back of the bolt that is attached to the ceiling or just screwing it in?

I just screwed mine into the 2x6 joist.

Stopher

· #32 · May 25, 2012

nreese said:
Are you securing the back of the bolt that is attached to the ceiling or just screwing it in?

I figured four 4" lag screws into 2x8 rafters should be more than strong enough to hold up that light hard top.

TJDukit

· #33 · May 31, 2012

Just did this before I came to work this afternoon. I still need to work it out a little to get it two inches higher in the front and I will be able to walk under it.

Thanks for the cheap easy idea.

ShizNizy

· #34 · Jun 15, 2012 (Edited)

Thanks for the great idea! I did this the day I bought my Jeep! Saved me a couple hundred dollars compared to the store bought hard top removal systems.

Now I just need to get the ORH softtop so I can leave the hardtop off all summer.

kslatton

· #35 · Jul 2, 2012

This is an awesome set up. I have had my JK for 2 months and I have my hard top in my out building. I have been looking for a hoist system that is inexpensive and easy to use. Can't wait to set this up. Thanks again.

jsmhyde

· #36 · Jul 21, 2012

Have you thought about renting a storage unit?

Nukeman

· #37 · Jul 25, 2012 (Edited)

I did basically the same thing.

4 eyebolts
4 Harbor Freight "orange" tie down straps

But...I decided to not run the straps through the inside of the top.

I bought 4, "V-Shaped hang-alls" from Harbor Freight ($2 a piece).

Then, wrapped them in some foam pipe insualtion from lowes.

I hang one from each tie down strap, then slide one under each rear corner, then two on the front at each side, where the freedom panels would join.

I'm out $23 and works amazing.

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kslatton

· #38 · Jul 30, 2012

This is my project for today. Got everything I needed at Lowes for less than $15. Beats $130 any day.

TxWarEagle

· #39 · Aug 2, 2012

ShizNizy said:
Thanks for the great idea! I did this the day I bought my Jeep! Saved me a couple hundred dollars compared to the store bought hard top removal systems.

Now I just need to get the ORH softtop so I can leave the hardtop off all summer.

This is an awesome idea. Thanks for the original post MSUJEEP and all the "confidence-building" replies, y'all! I originally thought I wasn't capable of engineering my own system and was gonna drop $250+ on a pre-made hoist, but now that I see it's this easy, I'm in!

I actually don't take delivery of my Rubi for another few weeks, but the absolute first thing I want to do it yank the hard top off, so I would like to have this done ahead of time and I have a few questions:

Do you guys leave the rear window open all the time it's hanging, or are you able to (gently) close it with straps run through the opening of the top/glass?? I'll be leaving mine hanging for probably 8+ months/year, so I'm concerned with unnecessary wear on the gas rods.

Secondly, could one of you guys with a 4-door share your measurements? Mainly how far (front to back) the hooks need to be spaced & how much room I should allow between the back hook and the wall? I get that left to right will be dictated by my ceiling joists (probably 24"). Also, how big is the total footprint of the roof when it's raised up?? Wanna make sure mine will clear the garage door/shelves at the back of the garage.

Nukeman said:
I did basically the same thing.

4 eyebolts
4 Harbor Freight "orange" tie down straps

But...I decided to not run the straps through the inside of the top.

I bought 4, "V-Shaped hang-alls" from Harbor Freight ($2 a piece).

Then, wrapped them in some foam pipe insualtion from lowes.

I hang one from each tie down strap, then slide one under each rear corner, then two on the front at each side, where the freedom panels would join.

I'm out $23 and works amazing.

Correct if I'm wrong, but on your set-up you have to lift each corner interdependently, right? Does this not cause problems? Also (and bear in mine I'm a Jeep newbie) but for the back corners, how do you get your hooks under the top without lifting it by hand? Am I missing something???

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Nukeman

· #40 · Aug 13, 2012

Yes, it does lift each corner independently, but the hardtop, even the 4-door, isn't heavy. It's quite easy to lift at each corner. Actually, once one corner is attached, the opposite corner has no weight on it. Very simple to use.

I chose to use the hangers simple because it doesn't place the stess on the edges of the hardtop due to the straps running through it. On mine, the hardtop is resting on the padded hooks at each corner. Either way works though.

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