Seems like it has to be the clock spring. Can you return it for another one?

 

So you've already replaced it once? I forgot mopars warranty but I had the local parts department exchange mine for a new one because it went bad within the warranty time frame

 

I JUST called the stealership, and the clockspring warrentee has been extended to 150k, mines going in on Nov 3rd, fully covered

Sometimes you're the windsheild, some times your the bug, it feels good being the windsheild now and then...

 

I replaced the clock spring on my dime because I couldn't wait for a dealership to get to it as I didn't have a spare vehicle. So I didnt buy the Mopar part, which may be the problem, but instead I got the part from rock auto with the part number cross referenced and confirmed by someone else in here in another thread.

Ill have to look at my order record and see if I'm still under warranty but I'm guessing it was 90 day's from rock auto.

 

Digging into this a bit more this weekend I tried a few things with no success. I also discovered I bought my clock spring from Amazon not Rock Auto. All reviews said it worked fine for their 07+ Wranglers.

Thinking this might be something with Superchips 'capturing' these lights-on with the tune I set the Jeep back to stock. I even disconnected the battery terminals and touched them together for 30 seconds. After which, being back to stock, I started up the Jeep and instant BAS/ESP, traction control, and ABS lights.

Hitting the ESP button twice the traction control DOES turn on. I tested this on gravel, it kept me from judiciously spinning the rear tires. With it off I can peel out till the tires melt.

Ok, obviously not a Superchips issue. Many posts here indicate it could be a steering angle sensor not seeing the wheel straight.

Searching the internets for steering angle sensor shit I stumbled upon this little tidbit - http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?21502-JK-owners-check-your-steering-column!

And the linked write up in that thread is http://mintzer.com/Jeep/SteeringClunkFix.htm

It indicated that the bushing for the steering shaft in the firewall could effect the steering angle sensor. Well, I found mine to be completely out of the firewall, so I pushed it back in and put the hose clamp on the shaft to keep it from popping out again.

However, that didn't fix shit. Still have all the lights.


I guess I just don't know how I instantly have the lighs at start up, but then I can double hit the ESP light and the traction control (skidding light) goes out and traction control works. Traction control sometimes will turn itself back off after about a minute. I can hit ESP again though and it will stay on indefinitely at that point.




When I pinched a rear wheel speed sensor wire at one time my ABS light (and mayb the ESP/BAS light) were on and I was getting implausible wheel speed sensor codes. After fixing the wire all worked OK again. However, now I don't get any codes to indicate anything wrong with those components.


What sucks is my Superchips won't read out the steering angle. Which leaves me with buying an AEV procal or Aeroforce guage. I'd really hate to spend all that money just to read one damn PID.



Color me confused!

 

Well, on a totally unrelated subject but in the same quest to kill the dash-light-disco-ball I managed to get my CEL and GASCAP lights to remain off.

At some point in the past I had researched the problem and tried a few things but never actually bought a new gas cap. I had rotated the white part on the back of the EVAP thinking it might have been installed upside down after the dealer had to replace all that shit under warranty and the light came on soon after (I didn't take it back cause **** that dealer for other reasons) so I lived with it for 2 years.

Well I finally got a new gas cap. No fix. For the **** of it I swapped that white box back around. Initially the GASCAP and CEL came back on for the first start. Kinda defeated I said **** it I'll dig into it more.

Well, I start it up for work yesterday and no CEL or GASCAP light. It's been started 5 or 6 times since, and as of today it's still not on. There should be more than enough cycles and drive time for the comp to determine if there was still a need for the GASCAP, thus far it hasn't.

So, blame my stupidity, but that part is fixed at least. (I've knowingly jinxed my shit posting this though)


What I find annoying comical is, I was getting ~15.5 indicated mpg with the CEL. After it's been out, without changing my driving habits I'm getting an indicated ~17.5mpg without resetting the display. So I'm getting better than that for it to creep up there. Does Chrysler go into a default fueling map if it sees an emissions trouble code and dump more fuel assuming a lean condition? WTF.

 

Follow up with some Cruise Control information.

At some point after the clock spring replacement I was finally able to turn Cruise Control On and Off, but still couldn't get it to engage.

After my LS engine swap and working out some bugs I finally needed to replace the Cruise Control stalk as part of some trouble shooting to get Tap Shift to work and here is what I found.



First, in order to do so you basically have to redo the clock spring replacement steps up to the removal of the steering wheel. From there you can remove the CC stalk.
Clockspring Replacement - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum


We all know what the CC stalk looks like



Out of curiosity, because the inside made some funny noises while hitting the switch, I decided to disect it.
Pulling the top off that protects the connector pins you see this (200 bonus points if you slice the shit out of your finger while doing so)



Pry out the circuit board and you see this. The bottom of the circuit board has pads that contact the white block with contacts on it. This block is supposed to move around when you push/pull the CC stalk. Well, mine did not.



And the reason that white block did not move was this. Remove the block (it just falls right out) and there is a plastic tit coming through the "X" that should move when the stalk is moved. Mine did not, it was obviously broken.





I installed the new switch and the dash now displays the commanded gear correctly for Tap Shift. The CC ON/OFF button does not go through that white block with contacts so that is why it would turn on and off but never engage.

I don't know yet if CC will actually work or if I'll have to dig some more, but atleast some improvement has been made.

 

Now I can see why the cruise control system checks to make sure your brakes work before turning on. The actual on/off switch seems to be a cheap plastic joke of a contraption and you need that backup of the brakes.

The more I learn about the Jeep electrical system, the more I want to rip every single wire out.

Glad your getting it sorted.

 

Yup, such a cheap part caused so much grief and trouble shooting.

Doing voltage checks when hitting the buttons showed no change so it's not like the system could self diagnose. Now, had the actual electrical part of the switch failed somehow then the computer could be able to detect the voltage is out of range for whatever signal, but that was not the case here and I don't know if Jeep does that anyhow.

On the positive side, Tap Shift and Cruise Control worked this morning!