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This load distributing ball joint design is very interesting…..
I wonder how much added stress is applied to the upper arm of the inner C?
Wheeling these load distributing ball joints on a stock or UD44 housing might just actually have a plausible chance of tweaking the Inner C.
Hmmmm….

What front housing are you running stretch79?

Hey Dynatrac, Teraflex and Rare Parts. What are your thoughts on my merger concern?
I'm running a 2014 rubicon axle with C gussets and truss. Tires wear fine so I assume nothing is bent on my C's yet. I'm not easy on it either.
 

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I'm running a 2014 rubicon axle with C gussets and truss. Tires wear fine so I assume nothing is bent on my C's yet. I'm not easy on it either.
40's on a trussed up Rubi axle, Bad ass,:rockon:
I don't like the current price of RP ball joint's, but the design makes sense.
Thanks for sharing.:beer:
 

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And those wheels are 3.5 BS too right? Nice to see the 40s working with that suspension since i have it too and would love to move up
I believe the methods are 3.5". They will rub on full lock though, I had to put 3 washers in my steering stops. Yes, the 40's will fit and work with the 3.5" rk lift but be prepared to do some major sawzall work front and rear.
 

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I took a break from this. I decided to look at it again, If I completely remove the upper ball joint pre-load cap I can tighten the lower ball joint castle nut properly. As the knuckle comes up onto the tapered studs the upper ball joint bearing raises up in the bore. I can get the pre-load cap back on, but I don't have nearly as many threads of engagement. I have a call into Rare Parts to see if this is acceptable?

This picture shows approximately where the pre-load cap should be in a stock axle install.


This is where my pre-load cap sits currently with 3 full turns of thread engagement.


I wonder if I can get thinner rubber and plastic spacers to increase the number of threads engaged.



The inner parts that make up the upper ball joint.



This is where the stud sits in an axle with thicker "C"



This is the postion that the tapered stud should be in when installed in a stock axle

 

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Can't say that I have. Teraflex makes a nice pair. Adjustable, greasable, warranty, the works. You will have to grind on the shafts some, but it's not a big deal. Been abusing my suspension, and everything is gravy. Customer service is top notch. They offered to ship a replacement when the guys forgot to grind.. who does that? Awesome. I made the shop pay for it and thanked TF. Top notch

Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
 

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Anyone know if you have to grind the shafts on a 2012+ with the rare parts ball joints? Can't find an answer either way anywhere...
I put them in my 2014 Rubicon and did NOT have to grind the shafts. Just be sure to turn the lower grease zerk to the proper position. I believe the instructions show you how.
 

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How does greasing the uppers work? I put about 10 pumps into them, I usually fill up new parts like this until I just start to see grease escaping the bottom. But on these, the grease gun got stiff, it looks like they have no exit path for grease to escape.

Is this correct? Won't that make it pretty hard to grease them in the future because the bottom will be hydrolocked with grease and I won't be able to get any fresh grease in?
 

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How does greasing the uppers work? I put about 10 pumps into them, I usually fill up new parts like this until I just start to see grease escaping the bottom. But on these, the grease gun got stiff, it looks like they have no exit path for grease to escape.

Is this correct? Won't that make it pretty hard to grease them in the future because the bottom will be hydrolocked with grease and I won't be able to get any fresh grease in?
Did you ever find an answer for this?
 

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Did you ever find an answer for this?
Yes they're just a little stiff at first on grease exiting. They're not actually sealed, called and asked and they said the grease can escape the bottom. After a few days of driving I put the grease gun back on and it flows right through and comes out the bottom as you'd expect.
 

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Once the preload is set on the rare parts ball joints, is there a need to ever check or adjust it?
As far as I know there is no real need to check, I believe Rare Parts says it's not needed and is not part of a standard maintenance cycle. That said, I would check but not too frequently. If your inner-C's get tweaked at all the preload will be all off so it is at least conceivable it could get off.

The reason I say not too frequently is that it's a set-screw on threads (my one gripe with the design) so you put a gash in the threads each time you check preload and have to take the upper insert out and file the threads and make sure it smoothly passes through rotation to get a correct measurement on preload.
 

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Once the preload is set on the rare parts ball joints, is there a need to ever check or adjust it?
As far as I know there is no real need to check, I believe Rare Parts says it's not needed and is not part of a standard maintenance cycle. That said, I would check but not too frequently. If your inner-C's get tweaked at all the preload will be all off so it is at least conceivable it could get off.

The reason I say not too frequently is that it's a set-screw on threads (my one gripe with the design) so you put a gash in the threads each time you check preload and have to take the upper insert out and file the threads and make sure it smoothly passes through rotation to get a correct measurement on preload.
Great info, thanks
 

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yeah the price is a little more, but when the $250 BJs aren't working i guess it's fairly easy to justify
yep. amazed that people are still paying for the dynatrac considering they aren't getting any more miles than anyone else and the rebuild kit is so dang expensive. those don't make any sense at all.
 

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I agree, Dynatrac is just running on marketing at this point on the ball joints.

My rare parts put in 1.5 years/22k miles ago are still perfectly tight. Synergy did not last beforehand. Time will tell but I'm still sold on them.
 
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