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That's really good to know. I guess the hall effect chip I was seeing is actually DETECTING the magnet on the end of the pushrod not some sort of feedback from the motor (which was confusing me anyway because there is only 4 wires and none of them are hall effect sensors).

Even so I got buck type step down module capable of supplying up to 20A in constant current or constant voltage mode... This way I can set it up to operate using the minimum output required since I have heard stories of the motor breaking other parts of the system when using straight 13.8V.

Also have a tiny sealed proximity sensor on the way... Once I have all this I should be able to 3D print a new cover for the open end of the set up where the logic board and connector used to go and the logic I have already developed for controlling the movement should work.

Only other thing I need to do is make sure the whole things gets sealed really well.... Hopefully better than it was sealed originally which clearly wasn't well enough.
 

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All,

I am having trouble identifying which CAN ID on CAN bus C represents carries button state.

the 6th byte of 325 is not changing state with SB button on the dash??

I wrote a test program which logged to a PC via serial for 10 seconds and recorded all CAN traffic both while operating the PB and while not operating it.

I then imported the data to excel in order to be able to gain more insights about what was going on. There is a LOT of traffic on that bus...

1513 transmissions from 45 unique CAN IDs while depressing SB button and 1518 transmissions from 41 unique IDs while pressing the button...
I then had excel determine how many unique data values each ID produced both with and without SB button press going on. I disregarded all IDs where the non-SB-button-press case produced the same or more unique values than the SB-button-press case. This left 13 IDs that could potentially be it INCLUDING 325.

I limited serial output to each one of these in turn and tried both with and without pressing the SB button but was not able to find a correlation with any of them.

This thing is driving me nuts cause I am going to the Rush Off-road anniversary bash next weekend and I really need this thing back together by then.

Anyone have any idea what the heck I am missing?

Thanks.

EDIT:
I am an idiot... I was going through the data again and noticed the 6th byte of 325 IS changing in the SB case. Absolutely NO IDEA how I missed this last night especially since I was looking for it but in my defense it was getting close to midnight when I got done. Less late night work while drinking vodka for me I guess :laugh::laugh:
 

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Hi,

thank you for posting your platin plans.

I build your platin with your plans. Now my question is, wich wires do i need to cut? And were are those?

You put a conector on your platin. Wich one do you use? Do I need them too?

Sorry for my bad english, I'm from germany so my english istn tath good :/

Lg
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Hi,

thank you for posting your platin plans.

I build your platin with your plans. Now my question is, wich wires do i need to cut? And were are those?

You put a conector on your platin. Wich one do you use? Do I need them too?

Sorry for my bad english, I'm from germany so my english istn tath good :/

Lg
You cut the CAN bus wires. I'm not sure what colors they were, but it's the obvious twisted pair of thin wires. Not sure which is which on H vs. L, try it and swap if it doesn't work.

I used some random waterproof connector, it doesn't matter what you use and you don't even need to use a connector if you're happy just soldering it inline.
 

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You cut the CAN bus wires. I'm not sure what colors they were, but it's the obvious twisted pair of thin wires. Not sure which is which on H vs. L, try it and swap if it doesn't work.

I used some random waterproof connector, it doesn't matter what you use and you don't even need to use a connector if you're happy just soldering it inline.

Hi,

I'm sorry that I'm such an ideot. Dont get it.

I ve 6 wires at my care. 2 twisted CAN bus wires, 2 red and 2 black one.



If I'm right, you have wired the canbus on CAN L & H, 1 of the red one on 12V+ (I think its a 12V power wire) and 2 black one the GDE port. What about the 6th cable?

Does it matter wich red cable I use?

Lg
 

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€it: I ve 1 big red wire, thats power. 2 big black one, that should be ground, the 2 twistet canbus and one red/grey wire thats thin like the can bus wire and goes to the same spot in the plug like the canbus.

Lg
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Hi,

Does it matter wich red cable I use?

Lg
I'm pretty sure one is switched by the ignition and the other is always-on. You'd want the one switched by ignition so the board you're putting in doesn't drain the battery. I forget which it is but easy to figure out with a meter.
 

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I'm pretty sure one is switched by the ignition and the other is always-on. You'd want the one switched by ignition so the board you're putting in doesn't drain the battery. I forget which it is but easy to figure out with a meter.
Hi,

do you connected both ground wires to your platin?

Well, I connected both Can Bus, the big red power and one ground to the platin and it dosnt worke. No matter how I connected the CAN Bus. So - whats the deal with the thin red/grey cable? Do you used this?

Lg
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Hi,

do you connected both ground wires to your platin?

Well, I connected both Can Bus, the big red power and one ground to the platin and it dosnt worke. No matter how I connected the CAN Bus. So - whats the deal with the thin red/grey cable? Do you used this?

Lg
Did you definitely load the firmware onto the microcontroller?

I'm 99% sure it doesn't matter which GND black you use, and again the red one is switched by ignition one is not, for test purposes either should work.
 

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I'm pretty sure one is switched by the ignition and the other is always-on. You'd want the one switched by ignition so the board you're putting in doesn't drain the battery. I forget which it is but easy to figure out with a meter.
Did you definitely load the firmware onto the microcontroller?

I'm 99% sure it doesn't matter which GND black you use, and again the red one is switched by ignition one is not, for test purposes either should work.
Hi,

well I'm to 99% sure thats the firmware is correct on the controller. If I connect it with the platin, the swaybay is blinking in the dash.

Dont know what I'm do wrong :(
 

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Hi,

well I'm to 99% sure thats the firmware is correct on the controller. If I connect it with the platin, the swaybay is blinking in the dash.

Dont know what I'm do wrong :(
Maybe it's blinking because the smrt bar is not connecting/disconnecting. Is the hack solely to allow use at all speeds/t-case states?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Maybe it's blinking because the smrt bar is not connecting/disconnecting. Is the hack solely to allow use at all speeds/t-case states?
Yes the whole point here is to use it at all speeds and in 2WD.

The LED on the dash is fully functional. If it unlocks as requested doing 70 on the highway, the light still goes on solid, and at all speeds it will blink if it's trying to change state. When locked, the LED is off just like stock.


Unfortunately there's not a lot I can do to remotely help you get it working. If you post some pictures of it all wired up I might be able to spot an issue or at least suggest things to try. Beyond that you'd need to start debugging it from the software side of things which is really beyond the scope of what I can help with through the forum unless you have software development experience.
 

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Hi,

I'm thankfully for erveryhelp. I know its hard to do it from so far away.



The 12V Power wire goes on the free spot on the Patin an than to the swaybar. (its soldet, but not on this foto)
The black ground wire goes to the black wire on the platin an than to the swaybar.
The Canbus wire withe/blue goes to green wire which goes from CAN2-H to CAN1-H (Green wire, right site) and from CAN1-H to the swaybar.
The Canbus wire withe/black goes to the purple wire which goes from CAN2-L to CAN1-L, and from CAN1-L to the swaybar.

I also connected the Withe/blue to the purple and the withe/black to the green one.

Lg
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Hi,

I'm thankfully for erveryhelp. I know its hard to do it from so far away.



The 12V Power wire goes on the free spot on the Patin an than to the swaybar. (its soldet, but not on this foto)
The black ground wire goes to the black wire on the platin an than to the swaybar.
The Canbus wire withe/blue goes to green wire which goes from CAN2-H to CAN1-H (Green wire, right site) and from CAN1-H to the swaybar.
The Canbus wire withe/black goes to the purple wire which goes from CAN2-L to CAN1-L, and from CAN1-L to the swaybar.

I also connected the Withe/blue to the purple and the withe/black to the green one.

Lg
I believe the swaybar should go on CAN2 and the Jeep on CAN1. Sounds like you might be backwards there.

Also after that change, I think you may need to populate a 60-120 ohm resistor (anything in that range should work) on R1.

It's been a while so not 100% sure on anything without digging into mine, but try that out.


Also, looks like you didn't put on the electrolytic capacitor, you might burn out the board from inrush voltage surges without it.
 

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Hi,

okay. I think you can be right. I will trie it tomorrow and report you.

So, hier is a picture. Wire goes from left to the right side (Swaybar). But, like you say its maybee wrong.



I'm not a electronic guy so my buddy build my this green thing. He told me why he dont solder on a electrolytic capacitor (if this thing is the smal black tower?) but I will give him your answer.

Thank you. I will write you tomorrow.

Lg
 

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I want more of this. These Jeeps are getting old enough & hardware / interfaces so open and available that three needs to be more computer pwning & less being pwned by the incredibly basic system & system. It's 'dainty' & delicate ,even at the assembly level , sensitive all thru but easily talked to. It just requires a better mapping of a really complex and parallel circuitry, I think.

Anyway, this thread is ,again, fantastic. Thanks for all of ot.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Unfortunately it does not work :-/

Anyone else an idea?
From where you're at now, I'd probably have to start going into diagnostics through the software. I'm not sure your software background, but if you can start a debugging session through the STLink and set a break point on any of the case statements in the main while(1) loop, that would tell you if your Jeep-side CAN system is working. When the key is on in the Jeep, it should break on at least one of those indicating connectivity with the Jeep.
 

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Hi, i dont disconect the sway bar And i do not need It but i had to dÃ*sconect the Smart bar because It get Crazy the car ( christmas instrument cluster, hotoil, chime, And the car Wont Start) so i keep It unpluged, but the sway bar light is flashing all time. How can i turn that Off?
 

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Hi, i dont disconect the sway bar And i do not need It but i had to dÃ*sconect the Smart bar because It get Crazy the car ( christmas instrument cluster, hotoil, chime, And the car Wont Start) so i keep It unpluged, but the sway bar light is flashing all time. How can i turn that Off?
Either a piece of electrical tape over the light or I think an aev procal can do it but not 100% sure.
 
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