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I don't see why you couldn't use the stock locker wiring to control the air activation switches, the sensors most probably wouldn't work, so you'd just have a flashing light on the dash when engaged. Not sure I would do it that way myself. By using new switches you get independent control of the lockers and can use them in any t-case range. I added switches for my factory lockers to get around the limitations of the factory switches.
 

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I've never wired an ARB but I imagine they could be, but you'd probably have to wire to the relays under the hood instead of the switches themselves since the switches are integrated into the canbus (the almighty computer)
BUT if you do that you will have the same limits as stock lockers out of the box - lockers only work in 4 low, etc.
 

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ARB and JK stock locker switches...

The ARB solenoids are triggered by the positive side of the conductors. The stock JK lockers are triggered by the negative side of the conductors.
With that being said, yes it can be done using a relay to trigger the negative signal.
However knowing that the JK utilizes a CANBus system you risk causing the computer to generate error codes.
I would keep all accessories separate from the OEM electrics as much as possible to prevent damage to the computers and the CANBus system.
2007 and up Wranglers has implemented what’s known and multiplex wiring or MUX. The reason they did this is to reduce the wire loom sizes for the computer systems.
This system is used to communicate with PCM, HVAC, ABS, etc.

Sorry for getting too wordy with this…but figured better to make you hate me now rather than going into the dealership trying to debug your electrical system and being without your rig for a week or so.
You can do many things electrical with your Jeep…it just takes more thought than the old CJ days!
Keep doing your homework and ask lot's of questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies guys.

I just took out my switch panel and disassembled it to check it out. Didn't know it was just a button with contacts going to a PCB. I'd be interested in wiring it directly from the contacts.

I could cover the stock contacts with two new contacts that each have a wire coming out of the switch panel unit. Then each wire could go to the corresponding two contact points of a TJ Rubicon locker switch so I could use the internal logic of that switch, assuming it has internal logic. Then wire to the front and rear ARB lockers from the TJ locker switch. Also, run a wire from the TJ switch back to a new LED behind the JK locker button.
 

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I would think it is just a momentary switch, so I doubt it would work. The factory wiring as +12v and - at the two wires going into the locker, just use that and a relay, or as sPod suggested come off the factory relays and trigger a relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, that would be cleaner, but then I'd still be limited in the factory manner. Would be nice if someone came out with a computer mod that took off the restrictions.
 

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I personally like it being outside the system. An added switch and it's always available.

You really don't need a relay in the system. Mine's wired to a 20 amp switch and fuse and it's been doing fine for over a year. The current draw for the locker has to be pretty low. The only reason to have a relay would be because the switch couldn't handle the load.
 

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I personally like it being outside the system. An added switch and it's always available.

You really don't need a relay in the system. Mine's wired to a 20 amp switch and fuse and it's been doing fine for over a year. The current draw for the locker has to be pretty low. The only reason to have a relay would be because the switch couldn't handle the load.
Oe if you use switches that illuminate to tell you that they're on
 

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I personally like it being outside the system. An added switch and it's always available.

You really don't need a relay in the system. Mine's wired to a 20 amp switch and fuse and it's been doing fine for over a year. The current draw for the locker has to be pretty low. The only reason to have a relay would be because the switch couldn't handle the load.
The only reason a relay would be required is if you are using the factory switch and need to trigger a positive source for the ARB locker solenoid.

I agree that a seperate switch would do the trick. At the same time keeping your ARB's seperate from any CANBus circuits.
 

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Oe if you use switches that illuminate to tell you that they're on
Again not necessary for this application. Your sensor should be wired to a light separately to illuminate when the locker is actuated not when the switch is thrown. Less than 5 amp draw on that side.
 

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Doesn't that result in the 4WD light being on all the time? It still doesn't get around being able to just engage the front locker either.
 

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Oe if you use switches that illuminate to tell you that they're on
You dont need a relay to illuminate switches. Run your positive and negative and off the ACC run it to GND.
 

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I don't see why you couldn't use the stock locker wiring to control the air activation switches, the sensors most probably wouldn't work, so you'd just have a flashing light on the dash when engaged. Not sure I would do it that way myself. By using new switches you get independent control of the lockers and can use them in any t-case range. I added switches for my factory lockers to get around the limitations of the factory switches.
PhiD: Any pictures of the switches, and further detail on how you did it? Sometimes I'm crawling, sometimes I'm snowing, sometimes ice dancing, sometimes trail riding-would be nice to have independent switches.
thanks
 

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Here are mine. :grinpimp:


This is what it looks like at night.

Wire from battery to 20 amp fuse to switch to one side of locker actuator plug on the diff. Wire from other side of plug to ground.
Then wire from battery to 5 amp fuse to blinking LED (front) to one side of indicator sensor plug on diff. Wire from other side of plug to ground.
 

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ARB adapter...

Totemkopf
We have an adapter harness we designed to work with ARB's system. It illiminates 14 wires coming into your cab.
It plugs diretcly into ARB's harness and connects directly to the sPOD's Source.
The ARB actuators (rockers) can be snapped right in place on our switches which are Carling Tech Contura's.
No modification required to our harness, the Jeeps electrics or ARB's harness.
Install instructions

Switch bezel with 6 switches

Bezel and wire harness with connectors shown

Below is a pic of the Source (our power distribution unit)

The ARB actuators installed on the sPOD switch bezel

The new Source cover
 
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