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What’s up guys, new to the forum. I’ve been struggling with an issue that I just can’t seem to figure out. I have a jeep JK with 109k miles on it now. A couple of years ago I was on my way to Moab and when it came to a steep section of soldier summit my jeep went into limp mode. It had now power and when I pulled over I turned it off and back on and it drove fine granted the check engine was still on. I plugged in my scanner and it had a P0394 code which is the camshaft sensor bank 2. I stopped by the dealer and picked up a new part and swapped them. It continues for to have the same issue. I pretty much gave up on it and only drive it around town. Has anyone had a similar issue? I would be awesome to take this think back on some trails. It runs fine on the highway it just really struggles going up steep roads.
 

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What’s up guys, new to the forum. I’ve been struggling with an issue that I just can’t seem to figure out. I have a jeep JK with 109k miles on it now. A couple of years ago I was on my way to Moab and when it came to a steep section of soldier summit my jeep went into limp mode. It had now power and when I pulled over I turned it off and back on and it drove fine granted the check engine was still on. I plugged in my scanner and it had a P0394 code which is the camshaft sensor bank 2. I stopped by the dealer and picked up a new part and swapped them. It continues for to have the same issue. I pretty much gave up on it and only drive it around town. Has anyone had a similar issue? I would be awesome to take this think back on some trails. It runs fine on the highway it just really struggles going up steep roads.
Which motor we talkin' about?
 

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It’s got the 3.6 Pentastar.
So I have the same error and have not started tracking it down yet.

My next step will be pulling the cover and inspecting. From another post:
Have been dealing with a cam sensor fault with the traction control light for months now and have just been clearing with my Jscan. Finally had a chance to pull the valve cover on bank 2 and sure enough the oil galley bolt had completely fallen out on the exhaust cam Port.
 

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I've heard of this issue before. Bank 2 is the driver's side. What I've heard/read is that the wire harness is a little too short and that this causes chaffing of the wires that go to this sensor. The fix is to replace the pigtail.

Mopar part #68148103AA


Video on how to check for voltage at teh connector.



Note: Be careful with any magnets near the camshafts where these sensors go. Each camshaft has a sensitive, magnetized ring that can be damaged by another magnet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I have the same error and have not started tracking it down yet.

My next step will be pulling the cover and inspecting. From another post:
You know I have heard something similar to that, thank you for your help. I’d be interested in seeing what you find. I’m thinking I’ll give it a go as well and pull off the valve cover.
 

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My next step will be pulling the cover and inspecting.
I’m thinking I’ll give it a go as well and pull off the valve cover.
I would recommend checking the voltages at the connector before pulling the valve cover off. The only related parts in there are the camshafts and it's probaby not the camshafts. The valve covers can be a bear to remove and you risk breaking them.
 

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I would recommend checking the voltages at the connector before pulling the valve cover off. The only related parts in there are the camshafts and it's probaby not the camshafts. The valve covers can be a bear to remove and you risk breaking them.
Thanks!
Voltage is good at the sensor.
Replaced cam and crank sensors with Mopar, still shows a code.
 

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I have been chasing this same error in my wife's Jeep for the last 6,000 miles or so. It has PO392, which is on the driver's side. In my research I have found it could be, camshaft position sensor, connector to the camshaft position sensor, wiring from the sensor to the PCM, the PCM or the camshaft phasers. The issue is that at a specific load the computer checks for 5 volts at the sensor, if it doesn't get it, you get the code.

Another fun thing that pops up is since the PCM feels it can't control the camshaft timing, it can't control engine torque, and gives you a traction control light. Then you get limp in mode which means you only get a small percentage of throttle and can't go over 3000 rpm. A shut down and restart clears it most times, the code reader clears it all the time, but it always comes back. On the plus side, it never comes on in 4 low. I am very interested in what you find.
 

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Thanks!
Voltage is good at the sensor.
Replaced cam and crank sensors with Mopar, still shows a code.
If you've already replaced the sensor and the code persists, it can still be the wiring. The Yellow wire with pink tracer is the +5vdc sensor supply voltage. The dark blue wire with dark green tracer is the sensor ground. The other two wires are the return signal from the sensor. I've read that the wiring can be chaffed and perhaps grounding out somewhere or maybe a pin is backed out of the connector.

I have been chasing this same error in my wife's Jeep for the last 6,000 miles or so. It has PO392, which is on the driver's side. In my research I have found it could be, camshaft position sensor, connector to the camshaft position sensor, wiring from the sensor to the PCM, the PCM or the camshaft phasers. The issue is that at a specific load the computer checks for 5 volts at the sensor, if it doesn't get it, you get the code.

Another fun thing that pops up is since the PCM feels it can't control the camshaft timing, it can't control engine torque, and gives you a traction control light. Then you get limp in mode which means you only get a small percentage of throttle and can't go over 3000 rpm. A shut down and restart clears it most times, the code reader clears it all the time, but it always comes back. On the plus side, it never comes on in 4 low. I am very interested in what you find.
I would check the wiring to the sensor. How is your clock spring / steering angle sensor?

Both of you should also try to relearn the crankshaft/camshaft relationship. You can do that with JScan. You should be resetting it every time you replace crank or cam sensors or do mechanical work on the timing chain, heads etc.
 

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2013 JK Unlimited Rubicon on 37s
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If you've already replaced the sensor and the code persists, it can still be the wiring. The Yellow wire with pink tracer is the +5vdc sensor supply voltage. The dark blue wire with dark green tracer is the sensor ground. The other two wires are the return signal from the sensor. I've read that the wiring can be chaffed and perhaps grounding out somewhere or maybe a pin is backed out of the connector.



I would check the wiring to the sensor. How is your clock spring / steering angle sensor?

Both of you should also try to relearn the crankshaft/camshaft relationship. You can do that with JScan. You should be resetting it every time you replace crank or cam sensors or do mechanical work on the timing chain, heads etc.
Went down this road with mine and it turns out to be a problem with 2012 and early 2013 JKs. I ended up replacing the engine with a re-engineered one and have had no issues since.
No Whining now...
 

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Went down this road with mine and it turns out to be a problem with 2012 and early 2013 JKs. I ended up replacing the engine with a re-engineered one and have had no issues since.
No Whining now...
Did you replace the long block or the engine wire harness? Does "re-engineered" mean "rebuilt"? How did replacing the engine solve the problem? There was indeed a head problem with the 2012 and some early 2013 3.6's in the JK. I have a January 2013 manufacturing date and do not have a bad head. You can check the Julian date stamped right above the driver's-side exhaust port. Anyway, that problem did not affect the cam sensor on bank 2, it affected the valve seats coming loose and ticking. Thet's a different problem that has different codes. If you have the valve seat problem, then you would have misfire codes for one or more cylenders on bank 2 (drivers side). Affected cylenders are 2, 4, and 6. There's a TSB out there somewhere that has all of this info, including the specific misfire codes.

The cam sensor problem in this thread is an electrical problem. I've seen threads on this forum and other forums talking about how the wire harness is too short going to the sensor. Supposedly it rubs against the metal and wears away the wire insulation, causing a short. I've read more than one instance where this is repaired by carefully replacing the connector and pigtail going to the sensor. You might be able to do this without pulling the upper intake manifold. If one of the pins has backed out inside of the connector, you can usually just push it back in from the other side of the connector.
 

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Tried redoing harness at least once. Given that there was a recall and I was able to get a 7yr million mile warranty going outside of dealer, no whining now
 
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