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But really i would like to knowthe dangers of this.
 

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I will ask the im a dumbass question how do you know that your deep enough or too deep so that you dont weaken the tire
When they are balding, not much to loose. When new tires, I just start cutting, then adjusting the tool to get the cuts I want. The tool is easy to adjust.

The tool is real easy to control. You only cut as deep and wide as you set it.

Molshove did a complicated pattern that I bet will work well. :beer: I copied some other guys who had TSL/SX's.
 

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:stirthepot:I had no dog in the fight but you guys know that some of you are angry with the OP right?:thefinger::thefinger:
He's got some info we want, we'll be mad at him at somewhere date. :)
 

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Thats my only question, How do you know how deep to go?
The cutting knife adjusts up and down. I set my big cuts so the blade cuts, on the major grooves, deep, but leaves about a quarter inch above the depth of the factory depth. The tool has a guard so it does go to deep.
 

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I've got a tire siper/groover right now I borrowed. I am planning to go about half the depth of the lugs. I'm still not sure of a pattern yet, but I am thinking I will grove only the centre of the inner lugs, going straight across, and than a couple sipes on either side of the grooves (so one groove and 4 sipes per lug). For the outer lugs, I think I might just do a couple sipes on the inner part of the lug. Sound reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Here is a pic of "before" grooving:

Here is a pic after, these are wide grooves, like 1/4":


Here is a link to the groover that I have: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Van-Alstine-Instant-On-Tire-Groover-110-Volt,2674.html It works great. Only takes about 30-45 min to do a full set, although I didn't do as many cuts as Molshove.

People will do different patterns. The reason to do it is that when tires are aired down the gaps between the tread close where the tire contacts the ground. Different tires behave different. In general you can create more bite, better winter behavior, better water behavior, better flex over rocks. However, you have to be cool with cutting up expensive tires. :)
That's the same groover that we have...works great

We did our TSLs, as well...This may give you an idea if you want to cut further....they do serious work



I can snap some better pictures next time I'm at the shop, if you want

I will ask the im a dumbass question how do you know that your deep enough or too deep so that you dont weaken the tire
I always start my first cut a little deeper than I think I should, and only do a tiny, tiny bit, to see if I'm getting into the belts. IF I am, I adjust the cut a little shallower

:stirthepot:I had no dog in the fight but you guys know that some of you are angry with the OP right?:thefinger::thefinger:
:koolaid:

When they are balding, not much to loose. When new tires, I just start cutting, then adjusting the tool to get the cuts I want. The tool is easy to adjust.

The tool is real easy to control. You only cut as deep and wide as you set it.

Molshove did a complicated pattern that I bet will work well. :beer: I copied some other guys who had TSL/SX's.
Yeah, you can always call the manufacturer, too...it can be tough to get someone knowledgeable on the phone, but it's worth the time and research. After some looking around, I was able to find that, from Maxxis' mouth, the Trepador comps are safe at + 3/8" deeper than stock

He's got some info we want, we'll be mad at him at somewhere date. :)
:beer:

The cutting knife adjusts up and down. I set my big cuts so the blade cuts, on the major grooves, deep, but leaves about a quarter inch above the depth of the factory depth. The tool has a guard so it does go to deep.
The only new tires we do are for the race cars. The more whooped tires you do, the more comfortable you get with really cutting into the tire. You can get down deeper than you would think, and a lot of them

I've got a tire siper/groover right now I borrowed. I am planning to go about half the depth of the lugs. I'm still not sure of a pattern yet, but I am thinking I will grove only the centre of the inner lugs, going straight across, and than a couple sipes on either side of the grooves (so one groove and 4 sipes per lug). For the outer lugs, I think I might just do a couple sipes on the inner part of the lug. Sound reasonable?

On what tires? I can't remember the "new" tread depth for my tires, but I know I was able to get within 1/32" of new after cutting mine. Like I mentioned up there, give a call to the mfgr and see if you can get a recommendation for max cut. Also, google image search your tire and "groove" and see what others have done, if they have. You'll get good ideas, and probably adjust as you actually start cutting.
 

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They are Pro Comp Mts. They where new last spring and still have good tread. However, they are garbage on snowy or icy roads, and pretty crap on snowy trails as well, so I am going to try siping and grooving to improve them. I just plan to cut into the lugs themselves, not into the main carcus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
They are Pro Comp Mts. They where new last spring and still have good tread. However, they are garbage on snowy or icy roads, and pretty crap on snowy trails as well, so I am going to try siping and grooving to improve them. I just plan to cut into the lugs themselves, not into the main carcus.
all typical MTs are for shit in snow. Mud terrains have large tread blocks with wide voids...they're meant to dig and throw stuff (clean), unlike an AT that has narrower voids and will actually pack snow between the tread blocks, giving you better traction (like a snowball, the snow in the tires will grip the snow on the ground).


You don't need to make the voids any wider, at least not for the purpose of on-road snow traction

Siping will give you more leading edges for grip on the ice, and in the powdery stuff it will give the snow a place to pack in. Tons of the little guys, like the Blizzaks:



When it comes to the wheeling part (off the road), I know there's a few different schools of thought...wide tires with little pressure vs. pizza cutters with high pressure...my answer is always the same: doesn't matter what your tires are when you throw chains on them and lock both ends :skull:
 

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Ya I expected them to be poor in the snow. But they are pretty bad. Found some pics of a guy with the same tires. He grooved and siped his pretty much they same way I'm planning.
As for chains, I have a set, but have yet to use them for snow wheeling. They are for emergency only. Hope I never gotta use them. I'll post some pics when they are done.
 

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That's the same groover that we have...works great

We did our TSLs, as well...This may give you an idea if you want to cut further....they do serious work



I can snap some better pictures next time I'm at the shop, if you want
I would like to see some more. Yours look pretty much like the pattern I use on the TSL. Thanks.

Mine are cut for rock crawling. New TSLs absolutely suck for crawling. I hated them until they were cut. By cutting them they conform over rocks and have more bite. Rather than being stiff cause those big treads. They work better for snow bashing too.

I run my TSLs at about 7-8lbs but I have double beads.

Heck I cut all my new tires. They work better! I'm just careful not to go too deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Not that more is better, we just copied something from an old magazine that has handled both rock and mud very well :)

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I've thought about cutting more, but as my tires have worn down they bite pretty well.

I may add more after we do some crawling in a couple weeks.

How well are yours working on rocks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I've thought about cutting more, but as my tires have worn down they bite pretty well.

I may add more after we do some crawling in a couple weeks.

How well are yours working on rocks?
That's a good question...my first time out with them after getting cut up, my gear box took a shit. Hopefully wrapping up the hydro install tomorrow

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Good luck with getting back out soon. Let me know what you think after.

Cutting helps SXs a lot.
Whoops, sorry I was referring to the treps.

The SXs we have put to work, and they do a great job in any terrain. The 36x15.50 MTZs are still better in the rocks, but we won't abuse them as much because we can't get them in that size anymore.

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