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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title suggests what should I upgrade in order to safely run 35" or 37" tires on an Unlimited Sahara? Currently the axles are bone stock running 35" Nitto Mud Grapplers.

Front Dana 30
Artec Industries Truss
Artec Industries C Gussets
Synergy Suspension Inner Sleeve Kit

Rear Dana 44
Artec Industries Truss
I would like to do C Gusets but cannot find any
I would like to do an Inner Sleeve Kit but cannot find any

*If I upgrade to 37" tires once I kill my 35s I will upgrade to Chromemoly also.

Am I missing anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Okay so no C-Gussets on the rear saves some money, thanks! No Inner Sleeves for the rear either, saves some more money! Thanks again guys

You say upgrade the front ball joints... Which ones do you recommend? I am not a mechanic but don't mind buying a book and spending all night under my Jeep. That's how I installed my lift...
 

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Odds are you'll want a regear. You may want to look at new diff covers to help reduce the temp in your diff. You may consider upgrading your ball joints. And you may look at upgrading your brakes, both rotors and pads.

And you're not finding gussets for the rear axle because there are no C's on rear axles.

Another option: you could buy built takeoffs coming from someone that has upgraded to tons.


How do you use your Jeep? Do you ever plan on going bigger than 37s?
 

· Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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Okay so no C-Gussets on the rear saves some money, thanks! No Inner Sleeves for the rear either, saves some more money! Thanks again guys

You say upgrade the front ball joints... Which ones do you recommend? I am now a mechanic but don't mind buying a book and spending all night under my Jeep. That's how I installed my lift...
Come down to Tucson and we can help you put them in. We have done lots of them. For ball joints you can do synergy or dynatrac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan to use either 4:88 or 5:13 gearing when the time comes. For now I am content with 3:73 on 35" Nittos. I would rather spend the $500 on more important upgrades like axle build ups.

I will be replacing the differential covers with OX Manufacturing as their lockers include the cover. I will be doing dual lockers eventually (electronic). However, by the time I have the front locked it will have chromemoly shafts. The rear may be locked prior to chromemoly shafts.

I will most likely upgrade the brakes once my current rotors and pads go out on me. Currently they have about 7,000 miles on them without issue.

I have thought of buying take offs but would rather build my own for piece of mind and the learning edge. Never know when I may have to do a repair on the trail.

My Jeep shall never see a tire over 37" as long as I own it. The trails I run are moderate to difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Come down to Tucson and we can help you put them in. We have done lots of them. For ball joints you can do synergy or dynatrac.
My post said "I am now a mechanic" but is was supposed to say "I am NOT a mechanic". Sorry for the mistype.

Do you own a shop down in Tucson then?

I am having some trouble picking out chromemoly shafts...what do I need? The inner axle shaft and the outer axle shaft right? Both ends the u-joint connects to?

@ Alasha
I told myself never over 33" tires. Then came the 35" tires and I swore to never go bigger. Now I am planning for 37" tires....something is just not right.

Chromemoly shafts
Alloy USA Rear Kit
Alloy USA Front Kit
Are these complete kits or would I need to purchase more still? Can they be installed by someone with limited mechanic knowledge?
 

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I am having some trouble picking out chromemoly shafts...what do I need? The inner axle shaft and the outer axle shaft right? Both ends the u-joint connects to?
You probably don't need chromoly shafts at all. If you twist splines or break a shaft, them upgrade. But I'd save my money for new shafts until that time.

For inners and outers, the u-joint ends connect to themselves. You'll actually need a joint to go in there. There are several vendors of joints. Spicer is a brand most people go with. There are stronger ones out there, but remember that when you make one part of your rig super strong you're just transferring force somewhere else in your rig. Force will always find the weak point. I'd rather toast a $20 u-joint over a $3000 transfer case any day.

And generally speaking, I want to find an "axle bible" to point you to (model agnostic; not the pirate 14B or D60 bibles), but I am coming up short on finding one. I'd recommend spending some time really learning about axles before making any significant purchases for an axle build.
 

· The Wheelin Man's Friend
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I would do the following:

Front Dana 30 -

Artec Industries Truss
Artec Industries C Gussets
Artec LCA Skids
Synergy Ball Joints

Rear Dana 44 -

Artec Industries Truss

In regard to axle shafts, I would leave the front D30 stock shafts in there and weld the u-joint caps. Then go out and find a set of stock shafts to keep with you for trail spares. Tear the front end down while it's in the garage sometime when you have extra time so that you know what tools and steps are required if you have a broken axle on the trail.

If you're sold on upgrading the shafts go with something like G2 or Nitro that offer the larger ears with the Rubicon style HD u-joints.

I recommend leaving the stock shafts in the 30 is because if you re-gear it, the deeper the ratio the smaller the teeth on the pinion and the more likely you are to have a pinion give way before the axle shaft. Ask me how I know. :)

I would run Ten Factory shafts in the rear axle. They are available with the bearings, tone rings, seals, ect pressed on so that you can keep your stock shafts for trail spares.

Another option, since you're going to do the OX lockers, is to look at running the 35 spline locker and replace the shafts at the same time. You'll be stout enough for most anything at that point.

Marcus
 

· Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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My post said "I am now a mechanic" but is was supposed to say "I am NOT a mechanic". Sorry for the mistype.

Do you own a shop down in Tucson then?

I am having some trouble picking out chromemoly shafts...what do I need? The inner axle shaft and the outer axle shaft right? Both ends the u-joint connects to?

@ Alasha
I told myself never over 33" tires. Then came the 35" tires and I swore to never go bigger. Now I am planning for 37" tires....something is just not right.

Chromemoly shafts
Alloy USA Rear Kit
Alloy USA Front Kit
Are these complete kits or would I need to purchase more still? Can they be installed by someone with limited mechanic knowledge?
Nope just a bunch of cheap fuckers that like to do their own work in the garage. The only things I have paid for are gears installed and a muffler relocation. I never like to pay someone else to do the work that I can do myself.:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Careful what you offer Uncle Sams Misguided Child (USMC)! Boy do I love your name... I did four years of MC JROTC and plan to serve in the USAF here soon... I never put your name and USMC together until I joined this forum.

My program was put together by a Master Sergeant and Gunnery Sergeant like yourself. They didn't run your typical JROTC either... They actually enforced discipline and had PT.
 

· Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
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22,131 Posts
Careful what you offer Uncle Sams Misguided Child (USMC)! Boy do I love your name... I did four years of MC JROTC and plan to serve in the USAF here soon... I never put your name and USMC together until I joined this forum.

My program was put together by a Master Sergeant and Gunnery Sergeant like yourself. They didn't run your typical JROTC either... They actually enforced discipline and had PT.
No worries, it doesn't take long to do ball joints. Besides where my ball joint tool kit is at we can force him into slave labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would do the following:

Front Dana 30 -

Artec Industries Truss
Artec Industries C Gussets
Artec LCA Skids
Synergy Ball Joints

Rear Dana 44 -

Artec Industries Truss

In regard to axle shafts, I would leave the front D30 stock shafts in there and weld the u-joint caps. Then go out and find a set of stock shafts to keep with you for trail spares. Tear the front end down while it's in the garage sometime when you have extra time so that you know what tools and steps are required if you have a broken axle on the trail.
I have thought of this. Are the D30 shafts common to brake on the trail (moderate to difficult non-buggy trails)?

If you're sold on upgrading the shafts go with something like G2 or Nitro that offer the larger ears with the Rubicon style HD u-joints.
Larger ears and Rubicon style HD u-joints? Can you provide a link to them? Also can I order everything through you when the time comes? Confused...

I recommend leaving the stock shafts in the 30 is because if you re-gear it, the deeper the ratio the smaller the teeth on the pinion and the more likely you are to have a pinion give way before the axle shaft. Ask me how I know. :)
Basically in the front if I run 4:88 or lower gearing my pinion will most likely go first saving the axle shaft from damage? I know the axle shaft is easy to do yourself but what about the pinion?

I would run Ten Factory shafts in the rear axle. They are available with the bearings, tone rings, seals, ect pressed on so that you can keep your stock shafts for trail spares.
Good idea, but what about Alloy USA? I would prefer to buy the best setup within reason up front and not regret anything later.

Another option, since you're going to do the OX lockers, is to look at running the 35 spline locker and replace the shafts at the same time. You'll be stout enough for most anything at that point.
You mean 35 spline rear axle shafts coupled with the 35 spline OX locker? Can you do a higher spline count in the front at the same time as upgrading to a locker also?

Marcus
Text in red
 

· The Wheelin Man's Friend
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I have thought of this. Are the D30 shafts common to brake on the trail (moderate to difficult non-buggy trails)?
You can break an axle shaft many, many ways. I've seen broken axle shafts from guys peeling out in the snow and suddenly getting traction with stock tires and wheels. There isn't a perfect storm for a broken shaft. Anything can happen at any point.

Larger ears and Rubicon style HD u-joints? Can you provide a link to them? Also can I order everything through you when the time comes? Confused...
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85522

The JK Rubicon uses a "1350" style U-Joint in the front axle shafts and the D30 uses a 760X joint. The Rubicon u-joint is slightly larger and more robust as you can see in the size of the "ear" on the axle to allow their use. (Check out the pictures)

Yes, I'm a Nitro Dealer as well as G2 who also offers something like this.

I don't know why I didn't mention this before, but RCVs would be at the top of my list of upgrades too.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJ30-JK

Basically in the front if I run 4:88 or lower gearing my pinion will most likely go first saving the axle shaft from damage? I know the axle shaft is easy to do yourself but what about the pinion?
Yes. If you have to ask about the ring and pinion install then yes, absolutely a huge headache and cost of setting gears up again. Not being ugly, just not going to BS you there.

Breaking an axle shaft on the JK means pulling the shaft out on the trail and either replacing or driving home. Blowing the ring and pinion means you're dead in the water unless you want to tear your front diff apart on the trail and remove the carrier/gears. To do this, you'll have to pull both axle shafts out...see where I'm going?

Not upgrading shafts won't guarantee you won't see this failure. Upgrading your shafts does not guarantee you will ever see this failure either.

I'm just offering my experience as well as others that have experienced the same thing while wheeling with a D30.

Would I do it again? You bet...but I wouldn't dump a bunch of money into the 30. :)

Good idea, but what about Alloy USA? I would prefer to buy the best setup within reason up front and not regret anything later.
Alloy USA makes a good shaft. Ten Factory has a 10 year warranty and they'll cover bent flanges. They are good people with excellent customer service. I prefer to deal with them due to personal experience. Other folks have favorites in other places too. :)

You mean 35 spline rear axle shafts coupled with the 35 spline OX locker? Can you do a higher spline count in the front at the same time as upgrading to a locker also?
Yes, exactly on the 35 spline setup.

http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStor...ageindex/3/Level/a/ProductID/332/Default.aspx

There is a 30 spline upgrade for the front from ARB and RCV.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJ30-JK-ARB

http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker-Dana-30-30-Spline-373-Up-RD104-P3501.aspx

Marcus
 

· JKO Dickhead
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Im currently running synergy C Gussets and LCA SKids on my D30 with 35's and 5:13s, and an Aussie. I dont baby it by any means but am very careful with the skinny !

I had initially planned on the Synergy inner sleevs and bought the kit with the gusetts. never installed the sleeves and have had many a run and about 20'k miles on the 35's. not a single issue.

I did buy a set of complete front stock shafts as a trail spare, so I am not that concerned witha shaft breakage. Carry them with me in a pvc tube in the back ! cheap insurance

with that said... if you want some synergy sleeves. PM me and i can hook you up with a sweet deal !
 

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I run Gussets, sleeves and Nitro Axkes. 4.88 gears and lockers. No extra reinforcement in the rear. Believe it or not gears and lockers will save you on broken parts. Better to crawl locked then to use the skinny pedal open.
 
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