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Hello, I just purchased a 2016 JK, I am new to the forums and am learning more about jeeps everyday.

I am looking to run 40in tires on a 6in lift I know that there is more to it than switching out the current tires and lift and driving off (common knowledge) I was wondering what recommendations you all may have on what i should do to not lose suspension geometry on my Jeep. I wont be doing any serious offroading in the Jeep, but I want my jeep to be reliable to go exploring with out fears of breaking an axle or anything else. I will be driving to and from work more than i will offroad.
 

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Hello, I just purchased a 2016 JK, I am new to the forums and am learning more about jeeps everyday.

I am looking to run 40in tires on a 6in lift I know that there is more to it than switching out the current tires and lift and driving off (common knowledge) I was wondering what recommendations you all may have on what i should do to not lose suspension geometry on my Jeep. I wont be doing any serious offroading in the Jeep, but I want my jeep to be reliable to go exploring with out fears of breaking an axle or anything else. I will be driving to and from work more than i will offroad.
40's and 6" , well , you better search the forum archives , there is plenty of information here .
Personally , and more than likely many here would not even get near a 6" lift with a ten foot pole .
They are just not very workable either offroad or on .

There is the Guru of lifts on these pages and he has writin' a thread about his thoughts on lifts (Dirtman) READ IT. Heed his advise . You won't be sorry .

You CAN run 40's on the road ,BUT.......$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 

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You are looking at about $45,000 if you do all the work yourself. Figure on axles, whole new suspension, drivelines, hydraulic assist steering, new wheels, tires. I would recommend at trying to keep the jeep around 4" of lift and use flat fenders for the extra wheel clearance. Minimum 9" or dana 60 axles, full width (recommend 72" WMS) Short arm suspension is fine you don't need long arms but if wanting a long arm kit the only one worth doing is the Genright Elite kit. Recommend avoiding cheap companies like Rough Country, Rubicon Express, Rock Krawler, BDS. There is better stuff out there. Metal Cloak, Synergy, and Genright are solid companies.
 

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What is the difference between these shocks
$426.96 + tax :thefinger:

Also, construction + features.


EDIT: go read what thedirtman typed out for you before you price shocks.
You're looking at icing, and there's $40,000 worth of cake between you & the icing stage.
 

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The ones one the right have a reservoir which has the bison that separates the nitrogen from the shock oil and allows you to run a longer travel with shorter body and also runs cooler for those long fast desert runs. Shocks should be one of the last things you buy so you can properly size them up to your set up.
 

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Read this again.

You are looking at about $45,000 if you do all the work yourself. Figure on axles, whole new suspension, drivelines, hydraulic assist steering, new wheels, tires. I would recommend at trying to keep the jeep around 4" of lift and use flat fenders for the extra wheel clearance. Minimum 9" or dana 60 axles, full width (recommend 72" WMS) Short arm suspension is fine you don't need long arms but if wanting a long arm kit the only one worth doing is the Genright Elite kit. Recommend avoiding cheap companies like Rough Country, Rubicon Express, Rock Krawler, BDS. There is better stuff out there. Metal Cloak, Synergy, and Genright are solid companies.
Remember, that's just the price for parts. Add in labor for someone to install it all and that number gets mo bigga.
 

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You'd be surprised on how many times all of your questions have been asked and answered on this forum. I'm not saying the information provided so far is incorrect, no far from it. But if you'd only tried searching first, you would have found these exact answers provided. For example:

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/gtsearch.php?q=40 inch tires
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/gtsearch.php?q=6 inch lift
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/gtsearch.php?q=reservoir shocks

Learn to search, find your answers, ask questions on your research, and when you ask questions, be sure to include what you researched. This helps everyone and really is that simple.

Good luck... :wink2:
 
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To build a jeep to run 40s is not a simple parts list from extreme terrain. The fact that you are pricing parts on extreme terrain shows that you are a novice. Not trying to bust your balls or anything.

You can do research on the forums and the internet but remember you will be getting a ton of information and a lot of it will not be reliable. I would recommend calling or emailing a known good offroad shop and work with them to build you a package. Its not as simple as picking out some 4-6" shocks and springs...... there is a ton of stuff that HAS to be done or the Jeep will end up driving like hammered shit.

IMO. I would go with 37s. the cost to entry is much less compared to building a jeep to handle 40's. A nice 4" lift with control arms will allow you to run 37s and you can wheel it anywhere on 37s.
Even with 37s you will still need to re-gear, tuner, axle shafts, lockers, Bumpers, winch, sliders and maybe fenders.

40s will need all that and 1 ton axles, HD steering parts, Hydro assists steering, 8 lug wheels, 1350 drive shafts etc.... and you will notice a big drop in performance due to the size and weight of the large tires and components.
 

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If you really need 40's you should get used to the idea that aside from the tub, chassis and drivetrain you will tossing most everything else into the bin. Are going to tow it to the trail? There is no list of parts or second hand knowledge you are going to find to get it done. How many Jeep's have you seen on 40's out in the wild? There is a long list of reasons why you see so many jk's and jeeps on 35's. You can use a much simpler list of parts that will set you back about 10k if done right. I'm talking well thought out suspension, steering, axle etc. This is still a capable rig that is still usable and safe on the street. It's not going to raise any eyebrows around here but so what. I get it's super cool to say I have 40's and tons and all but it's a long road. Keep in mind that every trip you are risking 10's of thousands of dollars on any somewhat new and well built jk on 35's nevermind at least another 20-25k for 40's.

This place is a wealth of knowledge and experience. Look at what others have done to get a well sorted rig on 40's. They prolly spent about 1K per inch of tire size to get there. You will want a cage tied into the frame at a minumum safety wise and road driving with a cage can be deadly in an otherwise walk away accident. The main benefits of JK platform are a immense aftermarket and huge knowledge base.

Please take into consideration what the other replies have said. They are honestly trying to help you. For instance, You could spend 10k on a front axle alone and it' still in the shipping crate. Now hang off 2500 in hydro assist, 2500 coilovers, 800 in beadlocks and 1000 in tires. Throw in 800 for a 1350 driveshaft That's not all you need for just the front axle to work and you are at like 17600 already.
 

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If you really need 40's you should get used to the idea that aside from the tub, chassis and drivetrain you will tossing most everything else into the bin. Are going to tow it to the trail? There is no list of parts or second hand knowledge you are going to find to get it done. How many Jeep's have you seen on 40's out in the wild? There is a long list of reasons why you see so many jk's and jeeps on 35's. You can use a much simpler list of parts that will set you back about 10k if done right. I'm talking well thought out suspension, steering, axle etc. This is still a capable rig that is still usable and safe on the street. It's not going to raise any eyebrows around here but so what. I get it's super cool to say I have 40's and tons and all but it's a long road. Keep in mind that every trip you are risking 10's of thousands of dollars on any somewhat new and well built jk on 35's nevermind at least another 20-25k for 40's.

This place is a wealth of knowledge and experience. Look at what others have done to get a well sorted rig on 40's. They prolly spent about 1K per inch of tire size to get there. You will want a cage tied into the frame at a minumum safety wise and road driving with a cage can be deadly in an otherwise walk away accident. The main benefits of JK platform are a immense aftermarket and huge knowledge base.

Please take into consideration what the other replies have said. They are honestly trying to help you. For instance, You could spend 10k on a front axle alone and it' still in the shipping crate. Now hang off 2500 in hydro assist, 2500 coilovers, 800 in beadlocks and 1000 in tires. Throw in 800 for a 1350 driveshaft That's not all you need for just the front axle to work and you are at like 17600 already.

This is some solid advice! All be it years late for me! While I love my 40's it has been a money pit! I would like to think if I did it all over again I would be smarter and stick with 37's I would probably tell myself to shut up and do it anyways.
 

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Hello, I just purchased a 2016 JK, I am new to the forums and am learning more about jeeps everyday.

I am looking to run 40in tires on a 6in lift I know that there is more to it than switching out the current tires and lift and driving off (common knowledge) I was wondering what recommendations you all may have on what i should do to not lose suspension geometry on my Jeep. I wont be doing any serious offroading in the Jeep, but I want my jeep to be reliable to go exploring with out fears of breaking an axle or anything else. I will be driving to and from work more than i will offroad.
for fucks sake please search. And this is coming from someone that is also new around here.
 
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