[Broncojohn]

I’ve had this in the works for a while and am ready to start making this happen. I have a few loose ends to firm up but everything without (parenthesis) has been bought and paid for. I thought I’d let some people pick at it and see if there is any holes in my Idea, so hammer away. The decisions were based on performance of custom rigs I’ve been around I’m trying to adapt what I’ve learned without cutting up the Jeep too much. Everything below will allow me to go long arm without major changes just longer tube and new mounts. It’s looking like the lift will be around $2500 a few bones cheaper then a store bought with arms and flex joints at all ends.

2008 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited

LCAs:
1.75x.375 DOM Straight tapped to 1.25x12 LH & RH
Ballistic Fabrication 4140 Flex joints at each end.

UCAs:
Front: 1.5x.25 DOM w/ Summit Machine Flex joints, Ballistic Fab. Stud, KORE Threaded inserts.
Rear: TeraFlex now but may change to a 3-link style at a later date.

Track bars:
Front Skyjacker W/ Rockkrawler Joint
Rear stock for now.

Track bar Mount:
Front: RockKrawler
Rear: Teraflex

Springs:
BDS 4.5”

Brake lines:
Crown

Front Draglink Flip:
Custom - 1.25x.375 DOM 33" long with ES2234R and ES2027L TRE/DRE's

Shocks:
Fox 11" Emulsion up front.
Edelbrock 10” travel W/ remote reservoir in Rear
Currie adapters up front, Rocky Road in Rear.

Bumpstops:
Front - None
Rear - Teraflex Blocks

Axles:
Front - Rubicon 44 with Reid Knuckles (Pirate4x4 Giveaway), and RCV axles.
Rear - Teraflex CRD60R with Detroit locker

Axle Support:
RSE sleeves and C-gussets.
Kore LCA mount skids.

Gears:
Superior 5.13

Wheels:
MRW 17x9.5 with 3.5 B.S.

Tires:
Cooper STT 37x12.5 R17

Bumpers:
Front - Shaffers Stinger First Gen.




As the process rolls out I'll post Pics and note any snags.

 

[WTF_LOL]

looks god. Just curious though why you would build your own arms but not trac bar mounts or draglink flip?

 

[Broncojohn]

looks god. Just curious though why you would build your own arms but not trac bar mounts or draglink flip?

The Drag link flip is still in the works, I can build it with the same stuff as the drag link but, BulletProof has done me well on 2 other vehicles so I thought I'd through them a bone. I could jack my Bronco on their tie rod, I wouldn't try that with mine. If I do it myself it will be 3/4" Heims just like the BulletProof. When I get to it they will be doing my tie rod just like the Bronco.

The friends I have helping me out asked the same question on the track bar mounts. I think time is the major factor. I don't want that much down time; with what I have going it should be down for one weekend. If I had to fabricate my brackets it could drive me into the week. During the build if I don't like the way they work I'll make my own and sell the others. That's why I haven't bought the JKS Bracket (weld-on); I have a set of cardboard templates I've made up but it would be nice to know it will work before I commit. I don't have access to a lifted JK to see what works and what doesn't. The other perk is being able to put everything back to stock just incase.

 

[Broncojohn]

Off Schedule but still in the works.

Here are the LCA's. Straight 1.75x.375 DOM with Ballistic Fabrication flex joints. If I decide to go long arm all I have to due is lengthen the tube, about $80 a piece with machine work. Starting the Front Uppers next.

 

[Dr.Dirty]

looking good this is a build to follow

 

[Dr.Dirty]

i built my own drag link flip its really easy and not all that $$$$ im working on my double shear pitman arm

 

[Broncojohn]

Saw your flip on an earlier post, looks good and strong... The Ideas are flowing

 

[Broncojohn]

Upper Control Arms

I was going to cut off the bushing end of the stock uppers and run a sleeve with a threaded insert over them; then KORE Customs (In Oklahoma) said they had all the parts. Here they are I was going to weld them myself but my little 115 welder is acting up so I'm taking them to a friend that TIG's for a living.

 

[Broncojohn]

More UCA

Almost Finished

The weld on the flex joint is a buddy of mine, he's aerospace certified, I wish they were mine.

 

[Broncojohn]

Crown brake lines

In preparation for the lift I threw on the extended brake lines. This kit was simple and very uneventful. The only thing I disliked was the brackets were all drilled the same. I had to drill 1/4 holes on the drivers side brackets to mirror the pass. If I didn't and left them unchanged the only problem would have been the Driver front getting really close to the shock mount.

Notes:

1) Pay attention to the angle of the fitting that attaches to the caliper.
2) Tools: 12mm, 15mm, 18mm, 5/16, brake bleeder.
3) If you do it yourself when you let up on the brake the fluid pulls back a little so you need a bleeder with a hose in the bottle.

 

[Broncojohn]

Installed front lowers last night; with the straight tube, stock length, and stock tires there is about 1.5 inches of clearance at full turn while the jeep sits. I haven't tried it while flexing the suspension I would suspect some rubbing at full travel. I'm going to throw the rear lowers on this afternoon. Pics to follow.

There was no noticeable increase in road noise or feel with the change to flex joints up front.

 

[PhilD]

Nice work

Don't forget to extend the ABS wiring, breather hoses, locker wiring, etc. I also relocated the emergency brake cables:

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1372

 

[Broncojohn]

Nice work

Don't forget to extend the ABS wiring, breather hoses, locker wiring, etc. I also relocated the emergency brake cables:

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1372

Thanks


When you first posted your E-Brake cable solution I put a copy with all my other build paperwork. It's a great idea:bounce:

The Jeep now sits on 4 jack stands, and I'm in process of figuring out some of the issues. The front wiring is long enough to be happy, but the rear is very short. I'm going to splice them after I get the e-brakes cables pulled back and thru. I'm doing this under a car port and rain is expected all week. I committed myself on Friday and then had to work. The wife must love me, because we're down to her car. Since I have some time I'll take some pics in process and post.

Issues to note:

Right upper link mount bolt must be cut or drop exhaust.
Rear Locker wiring is way to short when trying to drop axle enough to squeeze the new springs in.
If your not using a Kit buy a Bar Pin Eliminator for the rear before you start.
Mounting Currie Front shock adapter is a PITA when you only have 15/16 in big boy tools.

 

[PhilD]

Mounting Currie Front shock adapter is a PITA when you only have 15/16 in big boy tools.

I had the same issue when I had JKS ones there, that big nyloc nut was painstakingly slow to get get tight.

 

[Broncojohn]

Here are some pics of the near finished product.

This is the back-end. I still need to pull the e-brake cables thru.

 

[Broncojohn]

Here is the front.

The only issue was the known one. Make sure you have a replacement 12mmx1.5x80 bolt to hold the upper right LCA. I couldn't get my hands on a 1.5 pitch bolt so I bought 1.75pitch and new nut. 10.9 grade(metric grade 8).

 

[Broncojohn]

As she stands now. 37's soon.

 

[PhilD]

I'll say it again, nice work

 

[Broncojohn]

Thx!

Took a visit to the local bearing supplier and then the screw and bolt supplier. I made a set of sway bar links for the rear. They cost me about $50. It could have been cheaper if I went with cheap rod ends but I wanted some that would take some abuse so I bought some rated for use as control ends on industrial equipment.

Female R/H 12-20 rod ends x4
3ft piece of 1/2-20 threaded rod only used 2ft.
1.5" 1/2-20 bolts and lock nuts
1/2 spacer material

 

[Broncojohn]

Here is the latest poser pic with 32's

Before

After