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So, first - be careful when you install stuff!!! A buddy and I installed the TF BB lift and one of us (I honestly don't remember who) improperly reinstalled the lower end.. I can now tell that the flag nut ended up "inside" the two pieces of the bracket with one of the spacers and the track bar itself but the second spacer was on the outside with the head of the bolt.

Because of this, only one of the bracket pieces was holding the track bar in. I went offroading on a very rocky trail (MSV/Middle St. Vrain and Coney Flats in Boulder County, CO) and ended up twisting and breaking the one side of the bracket that was in (toward front of the JK). The back side of the bracket only had the nub/end of the bolt sticking out of it and slightly twisted but not bad at all - it just popped out.

Soooooooo after all that, I was disabled at the end of the trail. Couldn't go over 10MPH on the dirt road without a death wobble (yes, I had it on my TJ when going >52MPH and it was just as bad, even at just 10MPH, crazy). Part of that may have been that one of the sway bar links had come slightly un-torqued but it wasn't that bad and is back to spec now.

I had to leave her there overnight, went back with the TJ the next day (today) and was able to place a makeshift brace to patch up the front of the bracket and drive it home (~65 miles on crazy turns and an interstate ;p). Some pics of this are below.

The question now becomes, what TF do I do to pertinently fix this?! I can't use any of the reinforcement/extender bracket kits because they rely on the original bracket and then only "strengthen" it. I'm going to try the dealer and some local shops tomorrow to see if anyone can order this bracket (it also holds the passenger's side swaybar link lower connector and passenger's side steering stabilizer connector). Not sure what my luck will be there.. anyone know if a 4x4 shop could simply weld a thicker "patch" on there and that would work? The bracket is pretty bad off, it's twisted with the part above the bolt hole completely broken off and is split down the middle to the angle bend below (you can see it in some of the pictures)... any ideas?

broken:


trail fix plate:


trail fix above:


above again:


above close:
 
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Get a poly performance track bar relocation bracket. They only use the original mounting point as placement guide and are clamped to the axle.
 

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Get a poly performance track bar relocation bracket. They only use the original mounting point as placement guide and are clamped to the axle.
But then that would raise the low end of the track taking out of being parallel with the drag link. So with this PP bracket I am guessing it would be wise also to flip the drag link at the same end?
 

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So with this PP bracket I am guessing it would be wise also to flip the drag link at the same end?
Yes, to keep the steering geometry good you'd need to go high steer on the drag link too. Which would also result in better steering feel and less severe angles on the joints.
 

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Do you guys (PolyPerf) have a braket that doesn't relocate the track bar but just replaces the factory setup?

I would agree that moving it up along with the drag link would probably amount to better performance overall but if I am gonna flip the drag link then I wanna be able to flip the tie rod as well. Not sure if that can happen without modification to, or replacement of the knuckle.

But it almost looks as though if you were to flip the tie rod so that the passenger side is now on the driver's side and vice versa, that if it was on the top side of the knuckle mount it would extend forward and then downward and possibly not have iterference issues with the drag link mount on the passenger side knuckle. Assuming you have flipped the drag link as well. If that made any sense, what do you think?
 

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Do you guys (PolyPerf) have a bracket that doesn't relocate the track bar but just replaces the factory setup?
No, the only front t-bar bracket we manufacture is the one that move the mount up.

I would agree that moving it up along with the drag link would probably amount to better performance overall but if I am gonna flip the drag link then I wanna be able to flip the tie rod as well. Not sure if that can happen without modification to, or replacement of the knuckle.
Yes, moving the track bar mount up and flipping the drag link to the top of the steering knuckle dramatically improve the suspension/steering geometry. We have looked into flipping the tie rod similar to the drag link. You just can't do it right unless you make a new pass side steering knuckle. We are actually looking into this.

But it almost looks as though if you were to flip the tie rod so that the passenger side is now on the driver's side and vice versa, that if it was on the top side of the knuckle mount it would extend forward and then downward and possibly not have interference issues with the drag link mount on the passenger side knuckle. Assuming you have flipped the drag link as well. If that made any sense, what do you think?
I see what you are saying but there are still interference issues. You can do it the way you are describing but you would need to use a tie rod end the drops even further than the factory one. At that point the tie rod will be dropped so low that it will almost be in the same position as it is stock.... If you are worried abould damaging the tie rod in the stock position them get one of these...

Poly Performance JK Heat Treated Cromo Tie Rod





 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, the only front t-bar bracket we manufacture is the one that move the mount up.
So, PIG, would that work for me? As the pictures above show, my front flange on the stock bracket has broken, mainly that it's cracked down the center/bent apart, and the large bolt hole has lost it's upper half of the loop. It looks like you use some U bolts and the existing smaller (stock unfilled) holes of that front flange for rigidity, but is it intended to (or do you think it will) hold it pretty well still with that broken piece?
 

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So, PIG, would that work for me? As the pictures above show, my front flange on the stock bracket has broken, mainly that it's cracked down the center/bent apart, and the large bolt hole has lost it's upper half of the loop. It looks like you use some U bolts and the existing smaller (stock unfilled) holes of that front flange for rigidity, but is it intended to (or do you think it will) hold it pretty well still with that broken piece?
I think it would be ok... The factory mount serves for more of a locating mount. The u-bolts are supply most of the support. You could weld it on too if needed, just grind off a little of the powder coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Last question, this all says at least a 3" lift is required or it'll hit on full stuff... I have the 2.5" TeraFlex BB.. how bad would that be to put it on? Would it help if I put on a body lift/leveling kit or wouldn't that space the correct parts?
 

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Last question, this all says at least a 3" lift is required or it'll hit on full stuff... I have the 2.5" TeraFlex BB.. how bad would that be to put it on? Would it help if I put on a body lift/leveling kit or wouldn't that space the correct parts?
Its not so much the amount of lift thats critical. It is the bumpstop extensions that you need to worry about. You need to have at least a 3" bumpstop extension to keep the t-bar bracket from hitting the frame when the suspension goes to full compression. Also, a 3" bumpstop extension is the minimum amount of bump stop needed to keep a 35" tire from getting up into the fender flare and having it ripped off.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.
 
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