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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Without upgrading the calipers themselves there are only so many things one can do to increase stopping power.

Obviously lowering the weight of the vehicle is one, but more likely we are trying to compensate for the added weight of bumpers, armor, and other bits.

Rotors generally aren't going to affect stopping power unless you have a debris clearing problem. In which case the slotted rotors will be helpful. The cross-drilling is useless on a JK because the brakes never get that hot. Never mind that gassing isn't something consumer brake pads deal with anymore.

What I am curious about is how these pads stack up and what application they are designed for.

If you were to tell me your pad makes less noise and less dust than the OEM pad I would assume your pad will have about the same stopping power. Generally you have to sacrifice for performance. e.g noise and dust.

Most aftermarket pads are designed to resist heat but in doing so they don't work well when cold.

Depending on the type of wheeling you do this may or may not be an issue. I imagine if you are on the brakes all the time this would be beneficial.

If you can rely on your engine to slow you down then your brakes might not get as hot and thusly not perform as well.

So to those of you selling brake kits. Or those of you who have upgraded your pads. Please fill me in on what has worked for you and what conditions it has worked under.

:beer:
 

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Subscribed! I don't know a whole lot in this area other than I'd like a little more stopping power..but on 15"s my options are pretty limited..for pads I went with therma quiets..they work as you described,I never hear them so that's a plus
 

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Ceramic pad front and rear, and the Rebel slotted/ drilled rear rotors helped quite a bit. Front rotors next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ceramic pad front and rear, and the Rebel slotted/ drilled rear rotors helped quite a bit. Front rotors next.
I have a feeling the pad alone with brand new OEM-spec rotors will give you the exact same feeling that you have with that pad and the fancy rotors.

Of course if you are going to do your brakes like that everyone changes both so it is hard to know exactly which caused the increase in braking performance.
 

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I have a feeling the pad alone with brand new OEM-spec rotors will give you the exact same feeling that you have with that pad and the fancy rotors.

Of course if you are going to do your brakes like that everyone changes both so it is hard to know exactly which caused the increase in braking performance.
I changed the rear pads first- absolutely no performance change with the Auto-Zone ceramics.

Few months later, I replaced the rear rotors. BIG difference/ improvement.
 

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What about just putting better rotors on my front think that help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What about just putting better rotors on my front think that help?

Front pads should be where your stopping power is.


I changed the rear pads first- absolutely no performance change with the Auto-Zone ceramics.

Few months later, I replaced the rear rotors. BIG difference/ improvement.
How worn were your rotors?
Did you change all 4 or just the rears?
Did you feel your braking bias change?
If you changed all 4 rotors did you change your front pads as well?
 

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I will be changing my stock pads out for a full set of Hawk pads in the next week.

I will let you know if I notice any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will be changing my stock pads out for a full set of Hawk pads in the next week.

I will let you know if I notice any difference.
Oh this would be awesome!

I ran Hawk HP+ in my GTI which is a track-orientated pad.

If you look at their Jeep offerings they have the HPS and Ceramic.

Given how I drive my Jeep the Ceramic seem like the better option here as I could see the HPS being miserable unless they are warmed up.

Which did you end up getting?
 

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Front pads should be where your stopping power is.




How worn were your rotors?
Did you change all 4 or just the rears?
Did you feel your braking bias change?
If you changed all 4 rotors did you change your front pads as well?
The rear rotors weren't bad at all. Not much wear. Still a noticeable improvement. Just changed the rears. Will get drilled/ slotted rotors for the front sometime soon. The pedal felt slightly more firm- not greatly, but you don't have to get on it like before. Changed all pads to ceramic. If I could do it again- I would go with the Green Stuff pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The rear rotors weren't bad at all. Not much wear. Still a noticeable improvement. Just changed the rears. Will get drilled/ slotted rotors for the front sometime soon. The pedal felt slightly more firm- not greatly, but you don't have to get on it like before. Changed all pads to ceramic. If I could do it again- I would go with the Green Stuff pads.
Cool! Thanks for the info!
 

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I've got the Rebel kit on order from Marcus. Everything is just a direct replacement for the stock pads and rotors, so they should be able to get installed some time next week. I'll post results afterward. :beer:
 

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Hawk ceramics front and HP rear, Rebel rotors all around on my 60's, better stopping now than with OE rubi 44's and pads...

Looking for calipers now.... And maybe teraflex HD master cylinder in the mix..
 

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I recently switched to Ceramic pads all around. They do stop better but they make a little noise when my foot is barley on the brake pedal. Gets kinda annoying sometimes.
 

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Subscribing.

I've been debating between the Rebel kit, TF big brake kit, or just Hawk pads.

I haven't had any stopping issues with the stock setup, but if I can improve it when the time to change comes, I will.
 

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Subscribing.

I've been debating between the Rebel kit, TF big brake kit, or just Hawk pads.

I haven't had any stopping issues with the stock setup, but if I can improve it when the time to change comes, I will.
TF front slotted, Rebel rear, you can do hawk pads. If you Do do the TF kit may require the HD master cylinder.
 

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Phild sure is smart!!!
 
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