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Random Dude
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3,042 Posts
Making the top flat made a big difference.

Ride height side view:

View attachment 363908



View attachment 363909


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View attachment 363905


View attachment 363906

So, what says the group?

I'm kinda stuck with it either way.
I think the flat top section of the fenders saves 'em from Grumperland. Also, I think skinning 'em with cardboard would let you (and us) get a realistic feel for 'em. Maybe you can get an accurate impression in person, but my dumb ass needs 'em skinned to in good confidence tell you how lame they are


Look, I stole your flip off guy
 

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Premium Member
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4,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #783
I think the flat top section of the fenders saves 'em from Grumperland. Also, I think skinning 'em with cardboard would let you (and us) get a realistic feel for 'em. Maybe you can get an accurate impression in person, but my dumb ass needs 'em skinned to in good confidence tell you how lame they are


Look, I stole your flip off guy

Is flip off guy just a small pic that you saved? I tried to save it , but it wouldn't let me.

Ya, I'll slap some card board on there to get and idea of how they'll look finished.

I see two ways of skinning.

1) Skin it flat, so it stays the height of the tube till it hits the hood. Would have to form the side of the hood to meet it (as in raise the sides of the hood).

2) Skin it straight line from the tube to the engine cage. That would have to transition from the 76.5* angle at the front to the level part by the center bend in the tube.

I think # 2 would be the easiest but, I also think it could amplify the angle in the front. So possible Grumperish move.

I did order a few sets of pre- louvered panels (has 11 5" louvers in a straight line). My thinking is that these fenders may want to catch a lot of air when moving and create high pressure areas that bleed into the engine compartment. That results in less air flow through the radiator. I think some louvers would eliminate the possible issue. Also plan on a set of louvers on either side of the cowl induction scoop right above the headers.
 

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Random Dude
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3,042 Posts
Is flip off guy just a small pic that you saved? I tried to save it , but it wouldn't let me.
I've hotlinked it from PBB, so it will probably not work after mid-month when Pirate is supposed to get the fucking.
If you're using Chrome, just right-click and save.

Actually, here, I saved and uploaded a few fer ya':
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Dunno which skinning route would look better, but I rely on mockup for shit like that - bust out some carcboard already
thefinger.gif


Louvers on the hood are definitely a good idea - shedding heat will be necessary if you drive it correctly
laughing.gif


Side note / pity-party: I wish they gave a shit about preserving the JKO smileys - the millennial options bleaux cox.
 

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Premium Member
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4,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #785
Cardboard busted out, trimmed and taped in place. Started with the second way in my above post. Have to say I like it. To me it looks fine.

The more I thought about doing them the other way, the less I liked the idea. Making the fender skins higher than they need to be and then raising the sides of the hood to meet them, just sounded like a great way to remove some forward vision for "looks". Fuck that, that would be stupid. If I'm really worried about "looks", I have about 1000lbs of stock sheet metal to weld back on.

The fear of the Grumper look was real and justified. PERSONALLY
363922
, I think I've avoided that.

Pics:


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Does anyone know how to make these smaller and have them still work? I tried, but they just turn into a smaller non-moving pic.


smileflipoff_zps87f40fe5.gif




smile-driving_zps2723d276.gif
 

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Random Dude
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3,042 Posts
Cardboard FTMFW! (finally
363934
)

Totally with you on option #2 - I dig form following function, but that also looks schweet
363935

Option 1 would be heavier & more complex, reduce visibility, and waste more tape to mock up.
Was looking forward to accusing you of ripping off Fab Fours, but you done good
363933


Trying to size your flipoff dude:

1589075052242.png


EDIT: NOPE! Can't help you there - have you tried mocking it up with cardboard?
363939
 

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Premium Member
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4,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #787
Cardboard FTMFW! (finally View attachment 363934 )

Totally with you on option #2 - I dig form following function, but that also looks schweet View attachment 363935
Option 1 would be heavier & more complex, reduce visibility, and waste more tape to mock up.
Was looking forward to accusing you of ripping off Fab Fours, but you done good View attachment 363933

Trying to size your flipoff dude:

View attachment 363937

EDIT: NOPE! Can't help you there - have you tried mocking it up with cardboard? View attachment 363939


Thank you kind Sir.

I haven't made bumpers yet, so the possibility exists that I could still go full Fab Four. Actually the bumpers I pulled off the Jeep were Fab Four's......pre-Grumper though.

Got the tube connectors installed to make the fender removable. Now I need to copy everything to the other side and have it come out somewhat the same.


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Now I need to remember where I saw someone selling a nylon or rubber or something tube connector half thing, that you screw on to the vehicle mounted half and acts like a protector/bumper thing.
 

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Premium Member
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4,089 Posts
Discussion Starter #788 (Edited)
I don't think I mentioned it but the center mount for the fenders line directly up with the cross bar of the engine cage. So this "should" help keep them from changing shape when dragging on trees, rocks or whatever.


363949
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #789
I have bend-tech, which for me had a bit of a steep (and expensive - especially since you need it calibrated to your bender and dies) learning curve, but I'm getting there. I get maybe 30-45 minutes of freedom in my day to play with things, but I'm slowly chipping away at learning how to use the software. Their support has been awesome.

The calibrating of the bender to the program is pretty simple and something you'd do anyway, even if you didn't have Bend Tech. Doesn't Bend tech want you to bend a 180* and verify it's a 180* or something like that? I don't remember anymore.

All my dies have the particulars marked on them. This is for .120" wall tube on the 1.5" die, if I was to change wall thickness, I'd have to retest it to find out what the spring back was. The start point wouldn't change.

DSC01138.JPG



These are the bends for the tube fenders. So going off the start and spring back of the die, what I'm wanting to end up with is a center bend of 60*, a front bend of 72* and a rear bend of 18*.

I've just found it easier to right the shit down, makes it harder to forget. When you hold the piece up to where it goes, it definitely lets you know when you've forgot.
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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #791
 

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Super Moderator
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6,179 Posts
...move my build thread from JKO


sorry to see you & this beast peel-off to another trailhead , Kevin.
I'm sure it's going to be one of the legendary jku fabrications once completed & we were honored you shared progress as long as you did.
Maybe say howdy occasionally 😉👍🏻
 
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