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Discussion Starter #761
Threw a hat/rotor on, slapped a caliper on top...........then crossed my fingers and installed a wheel.

I can easily get a finger between the caliper and the rim everywhere. So, I get to keep my 17" wheels and tires and don't have to boom up to 20's. Wasn't 100% sure that was going to be the case. So that question mark has been answered.

Been doing clearancing on the knuckles and C's to get the steering maxed out. Didn't need a whole lot of flapper wheel love, but now at 45* both ways it's using the stop bolts and there's no longer any contact between the knuckles and C's.
 

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I have two cats. They're covered in fur. Sometimes they run fast.
You forgot to add "whatever" to the end of your post... :laughing2:
 

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Discussion Starter #764
You forgot to add "whatever" to the end of your post... :laughing2:

Missed opportunity. Now that his post is gone, I should remove his quote from my post so it looks like I'm simply retarded.



I do have a slight update.

Ghetto rigged a angle iron tierod between the steering arms so I could measure the total amount of steering and get a ram ordered up from Howe. They make 6", 8" and 10" rams. When you order, they'll install internal stops, so ram and knuckles stop together.

I'm getting 11.125" of travel. That's with the "tierod" mounted 9" from the Kingpin C/L. So, I need to figure out just how close I can get the ram to the axle housing, while walking the mounting points on the arms back towards the Kingpins.

I can tell ya one thing, this sucker is going to steer tight. Which is good being a land yacht.
 

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Discussion Starter #765
While I'm letting this new fucking bullshit cock sucking forum layout sink in..........

Ordered the hydro ram today. Howe 2.25"x10".

Didn't need to have them limit it at all. Actually, I'm working backwards to the 10" stroke max. I'm at 10.25" right now. But I'd like to have the ram sitting where it goes, so I know everything is right.
 

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Discussion Starter #766
So, waiting on the steering ram to get here. I need that to finalize where the tierods will go. Then I can finish up my chicken scratch drawing to take to the machine shop and have them cut out the new arms. I like these Crane knuckles due to the keyway for the steering arms, but, it seems nobody other than Crane makes arms and theirs are all straight. I need arms that kick out board for Ackermann, and to get them out of the shock mounts when turning inboard.

I've got three other things that need to be delt with in the front. Hood, grill and fenders. I "think" I've got a plan now. And if this doesn't sound right, let me know.

Plan is:

Do the fenders first, cause they have to go where they have to go. The hood/fender "line" can be done (modified) with the hood. Hood needs to go up/down so if there's a stack, it needs to be on top.

Do hood second, just because I think it will be easier to fit the grill to the hood and not the hood to the grill.

Do grill last
. It needs the hood there to define the top shape of it. It also needs to wrap around the hood a bit to cover the sides of the headlights.

Does this make sense? Anyone see a problem with my thinking?

The hood and grill are going to end up being composites. That's been the plan ever since I hacked up the hood and turned the grill into a piece of sheet metal. So sculpting them into shape can be done with 10lbs of bondo and expanding foam instead of Chip Foose metal skills that I don't have.


So the hood scoop showed up the other day. Went for a test fit. It was the shortest cowl induction scoop I could find. It's also only 2.5" tall, I just need something for cool air to go in.

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Lots of room under the hood for an air box and filter to fit above the cross bar.


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Problem #1

With the scoop sitting at the rear edge of the hood, the top of it hit the cowl before the hood was opened any usable amount. So, I shortened the rear of it, that keeps the front in the same spot.

After modifications..............................of another brand new part.


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Which led to the getto hood prop.


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Which was remedied by this fancy aluminum locking hood hinge thingy. So a mount for the alum locking thingy will be incorporated into new hood. A secondary benefit of the locking hood thingy is that it also keep the hood from flopping all the way back to the windshield..........which would now smash the scoop.

Two birds, one stone, $5 NASCAR take off part.


DSC01084.JPG






Off to figure out fenders
 

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Discussion Starter #767
10" stroke ram showed up yesterday. Sucker is wider than my frame rails.

Only spent a few minutes holding it up in position. Of course it will want to cover the fill bung on the housing........or looks like it wants to.............I guess I wouldn't have it any other way. 🖕

Should have a front tube fender bent up today. Ill post up a pic, for review. I want to make sure it doesn't have the Grumper vibe to it. That's a fear of mine. I think I've avoided that look by using only one bend in side view.

And, I've only got one shot at them with 1.5" tube. Only had half a stick left. I'd like to avoid having to buy more. I do have a bunch of 1.75" if I fuck up, but it looks a little big when I held a piece up there.
 

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Random Dude
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. . .
Should have a front tube fender bent up today. Ill post up a pic, for review. I want to make sure it doesn't have the Grumper vibe to it. That's a fear of mine. I think I've avoided that look by using only one bend in side view.
. . .
Can't wait to see what you came up with - post a pic, already! <taps foot>
(note to self: tell Kevin his fender looks like he got it from Fab Fours)
:fangers:
 

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you can go piss up a rope
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I have a JD2 model4. It's elect/hyd. I believe it will do up to 2.5". No complaints at all with it. Plus, it being hydraulic means it doesn't have to be securely mounted to anything. The stand has casters so I can roll it around. Which is good because it's heavy as fuck.


View attachment 332944
I know -- I dug this one up from the dead.
Which size die(s) are you using for your cage tube? 2.0" O.D. - 6.5" CLR - 180*?
What are you using to design / manage your cuts and bends?
 

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Can't wait to see what you came up with - post a pic, already! <taps foot>
(note to self: tell Kevin his fender looks like he got it from Fab Fours)
:fangers:
 

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Discussion Starter #771
I know -- I dug this one up from the dead.
Which size die(s) are you using for your cage tube? 2.0" O.D. - 6.5" CLR - 180*?
What are you using to design / manage your cuts and bends?
Are you doing a cage?

Yes, 6.5 CLR on the 2" die, pretty sure both my 1.5" & 1.75" dies are 5.5 CLR. All my dies are 180*, I don't really see any point in buying a 90* die if you have the option of a 180* die.

All of my cage is 2" x 120" wall. I used 1.75" x .120" wall for things like shoulder harness bars, cross bar that the dash lands on, the rear shock mounts and the engine cage. All the seat mount/trans tunnel framing is 1.5" x .120" wall. I used 1" x .090 wall to frame out the fire wall back to the seat mounts.

Minimum CLR on roll cages is 3 x tube diameter. That's per NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA and NASA. The reason for that is the outside (stretched part) of a bend gets thinner. Minimum wall thickness for .120" wall tube is .118", a 3x tube dia CLR will keep the outside of a bend within the .118" minimum.


I do have a really old version of bendtech. I used it to do my front B-pillar.................and still had to put it in in 4 pieces. Other than that one time, I've done all my bends with a tape measure and a fancy protractor. For indexing multiple bends on different planes I have a angle finder that I can clamp on the tube.

Here's what I have for getting bend angles:


af2_4.jpg



And for indexing tube:


albcombo.jpg





I didn't get the tube fender finished.
 

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you can go piss up a rope
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Are you doing a cage?
I didn't get the tube fender finished.
I'm still shaky on this whole quoting thing otherwise I'd do an in-line reply.

Am I doing a cage? Not yet - I'm not there yet. I have so much research and learnin' I need to do first before I just decide "Oh I'm going to build this". I started with doing sliders and some ugly tube bumpers for my 3rd Gen 4Runner. Those (hopefully) can't get me killed if they fail. They also give me some experience with calculating angles and indexing and notching (my least favorite part). I have access to a JD2v3 manual bender. I'm probably going to invest in the v4 with ram. If I'm not mistaken that's about 2500-3000 sheckels. I have a 1.5hp hydraulic pump for my lift. I'm hoping that could drive the ram and save me some money.

I have bend-tech, which for me had a bit of a steep (and expensive - especially since you need it calibrated to your bender and dies) learning curve, but I'm getting there. I get maybe 30-45 minutes of freedom in my day to play with things, but I'm slowly chipping away at learning how to use the software. Their support has been awesome.

My goal is to eventually design and cut my own cage, using mild steel 2" x .120 with frame tie-ins, seat mounts, full cross bar behind the front seats and A-pillars that reach the floor. I'm going to get help with the welding to make sure everything is safe. I've been going around and around trying to figure out how to handle the A-Pillars and not destroy the dash. I keep thinking the way $Synergy did their A-Pillar cage tie-in is the least destructive. That or I have the A-Pillars come down in front of the dash and it's just a squeeze to get in and out. Compromises everywhere, I guess.

I'm sure everyone would say just get a GR cage and be done with it, however, there are some things about their design that appear to be a compromise. I can get into all that in a separate post. Mods should probably move this to its own thread so I'm not crapping up yours.

EDIT: What I would really like to do is consult with someone smart like thedirtman to approve my design, then work with them on the final install so it's safe.

Still waiting on that fender :thefinger:
 

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Discussion Starter #773 (Edited)
So here's where I'm at on the fender.

Ok, how the fuck do you attach a photo from a phone? Thought I'd give the phone a try since it's been sitting in the shop for 4 days now.

I'm not much of a phone guy.
IMG_20200508_151548.jpg
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IMG_20200508_151632.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #775 (Edited)
Top two connection points will have tube connectors, the bottom will get a bend and attach to the slider with a bushing in a tube since the sliders are mounted off the frame.
IMG_20200508_155259.jpg
IMG_20200508_155317.jpg
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Discussion Starter #777
Phone pics come out shitty. I'm on my laptop now and they look giganticly tall. I'll take some pic with my normal camera, so you can tell me I went full FabFours.
 

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How 'bout skinning 'em with some cardboard for visualization?

. . . and maybe practice that "social distancing" when you take the next pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #779 (Edited)
How 'bout skinning 'em with some cardboard for visualization?

. . . and maybe practice that "social distancing" when you take the next pics?

Look, I stole your flip off guy
Now that's cool. Ya, phone pictures suck.

Ok, here it is. Gay, not gay, Grumper, good candidate for the getto fab thread on pirate, acceptable because functional, cool, stupid, or just no?

To be honest it looks better to me than I was expecting. Making the top flat made a big difference.
The rear of it is still a work in progress. I did end up with a third bend. Then I cut it right above the bend a sleeved it so I can rotate the bend to land on the slider when they get made.


Ride height side view:

DSC01108.JPG




Ride height front view. Not gonna lie, I'm not in love with the look. To me it looks really wide. But, it's only 1.5" wider in the middle and actually 1" narrower in the front than my old Bushwacker flares.


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From the rear. Don't love it or hate it.


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Now, here's why it looks like it does. Stuffed.


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Believe it or not there's 11" between the top of the tire and the tube fender at ride height.


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And I still need to trim more of the firewall back. I think it because I've half ass set the proper pinion angle making things move.


DSC01103.JPG



So, what says the group?

I'm kinda stuck with it either way.
 
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