JKOwners Forum banner

741 - 760 of 793 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #741
I be dumb.

After talking with our Supreme Leader, my red star, um, had expired. So as usual, my bullshit was created by me myself and I.:nono::pissed:


Now I don't remember what I was going to post yesterday. What the fuck was that thing?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #742
Got the driveshafts. They fit. Nice to be able to buy something and just bolt it on for a change. Sounds stupid I know.

I'll say one thing, the yokes on the tc side are gigantic. I have spent hours now, searching for what they actually are, with no luck. The only numbers on the AG yoke is 2502-H. And I get nothing on it. Next up will be calling Adams to get the part number for the u-joint so I can buy a couple spares. All I see on the joints is SPR on one side and P7 above FT on the other side. They're also gigantic. Easily twice as big as the 1350 on the diff end.

Anyway.


Rear sitting just shy of full droop.

DSC01006.JPG


Front at the same just shy of full droop

DSC01007.JPG


Rear pinion angle. Still need to fine tune it at ride height. But, at least it looks like the end of the pinion wont be the "low hanging fruit". Any needed adjustment will be up anyway, so it'll get better.

DSC01005.JPG


Here you can see where the lower links mount compared to the outputs. The geometries do a good job of keeping the pinions pointed where they should be. Also, it insures that nothing happens fast, so hopefully there wont be any surprises in handling when the suspension is doing it's thing.

DSC01008.JPG


Biggest surprise was that the front shaft clears everything. I had my doubts about the edge of the floor. In the pic you can see I even marked out where I thought I would have to make room. But, alas, at full bump I can stick a finger between the floor and the shaft at it's closest point. And that's with the engine being centered in the frame, not off to the passenger side 1.5" like it is stock.

For reference, the upper links will just barley kiss the engine mount at full bump.

DSC01004.JPG



More to come.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #743
So I bent up the hard line for the AccuSump......................then realized I didn't have a valve in the line. Anytime I would have sat at a red light or shut off the engine or just let it idle really, it would have dumped 3qts into the engine.
So ordered up the Canton elect valve for it. Didn't really want to add more elect stuff, but researching it, the valve is actually pretty trick. First off, in addition the the main valve itself, there's a check valve in it. The check will allow it to always top off to the highest pressure reached by the engine.........regardless of if the main valve is active or not. Pretty cool.
The main valve is ran off a pressure sending unit that screws into the valve, I got the 20-25psi unit. Then you wire it all up through a on/off toggle switch.

So, it can pre oil the engine before startup by turning it on before cranking the engine.........do it's thing offroad.....and can be turned off before shutting down the engine (saving the psi in it) or when driving in town where you're starting and stopping all the time. Plus, it fits under the seat.

DSC01000.JPG


Did a test run on welding up a hardline for the fuel cell. What a disaster. I haven't TIG'd much stainless and it's been more than 20 years. So butt welding .026"wall tube to a solid chunk of a fitting resulted in blown holes and a cooked fitting. I could do tube to tube pretty good, but add in the thick part and I had to wait for the puddle to form........which just adds heat even though you running low amps. Like 35-40 amps.

Here's the mess in all it's glory. Didn't bother back purging and I do have a duel flowmeter setup, but this was practice from the start.

DSC00999.JPG


To make my life easier, I ordered different tube. So for the -8 ,1/2" fuel line, I went with 5/8" tube x .065" wall. It will actually fit over the raised end of the fitting, create a fillet weld and have about a 1/16" of the fitting sticking up inside the ID of the tube.
For the -10, 5/8" AccuSump line, I went with 3/4"x .065" wall. Same deal the it fits on those fittings.


Managed to eliminate one bit of hard line with a female/female fitting between the filter and reg.

DSC00998.JPG


Made a spot for the starter cable to pass through the firewall. I get a better feeling using the dumb looking sealed cord grips instead of just a little rubber grommet. At least where hundreds of amp are concerned.

DSC00994.JPG


Same deal with the winch cables through the firewall.

DSC00993.JPG


Made these little closeouts for the sides of the dash. Though I did kinda defeat the "closeout" part of the closeout with the big ol open speed holes. I'm gonna call them closeopens.:thefinger:

DSC00975.JPG


And on behalf of the virus, I bought myself a beer. First beer of the year. Probably the only one too. Though I did finish it.............unlike what it's sitting on.

DSC00969.JPG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #745
Oil filter/cooler t-stat and trans cooler t-stat mounted. Yes, they're on the pass side. It'll be much easier to route the lines up and over the bell housing, than to zigzag around the upper link and driveshaft on the dvr side.

Trans t-stat activates at 160*, is fully open at 181* and should stabilize at 165*.

Engine oil t-stat activates at 200*, is fully open at 221* and should stabilize at 205*.

Both t-stats always allow 10%< to circulate through the coolers to remove any air pockets and not shock the system with cold oil.

DSC00989.JPG


Pass side template for the inner fender is finished. Picking up some sheets of 16ga alum when I'm done here.........cause essential business.:thefinger:

DSC00986.JPG


Trying to have the inner fenders double as shrouds to funnel air for the radiator. might have to add some bits to make a seal.

DSC00996.JPG


Will have to weld on a cubby bulge for the oil filter. And it's a real man sized oil filter, HP4, not the tiny factory sized one.

DSC00988.JPG


Will need a bulge for the ac compressor too.

DSC00987.JPG


AC condenser, trans cooler, engine oil cooler and steering cooler are all mounted. Pretty sure the steering cooler is going to end up above the crossbar so it can benefit from the fans pulling air in the grill. But that will mean the winch will be a bit farther forward.

DSC01001.JPG


Ac and trans cooler are kind of mounted together and both are only mounted to the engine cage. Everything is rubber mounted to allow for them to grow when hot.

DSC00983.JPG


The top of the engine cooler mounts to the engine cage, the bottom of it mounts to the frame x-member. There's a bushing between the engine cage and the frame. I hope this doesn't turn out to be a disaster.

Anyway built in a lot of rubber movement. Made the top mount a twisted 90* so it can tweak if the world comes to an end. I think I'll be ok.

DSC00984.JPG

DSC00985.JPG


I need to find a spot for this fucker. It's going somewhere on the inside of the inner fender.

DSC00997.JPG



I still have room for headers too. That bridge will be crossed later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #747 (Edited)
10ft sheets of thin alum is interesting to load in the back of a little Tacoma. Surprisingly, they made it home.



Since the day is pretty much blown, I'll get this shit caught up.


Here's where the control box for the winch is going. Cuts about 3"-4" of height off the winch.
What sucks is I'm wanting to size the wire for it at it's max amp draw, cause that makes sense right? Well, going by that, even the wire that comes with it isn't big enough.....they're 2ga.......even for how short they are. Max draw is 460amps. But in reality, that's only on the first layer. So that's what, half a layer, because you still need to leave 5 or so wraps on the drum? You'd literally only ever be drawing max amps for a couple minutes at the most.

For the distance from my batteries to the winch, I should run TWO 4/0 cables for that amperage. I will definitely have a single 4/0 running from each battery to the dash switch. From the switch to the control box, I can do two 4/0's easy. But shoehorning the other 4/0's into the control box is going to be very tricky. Simply because the connection studs are close together and 4/0 lugs aren't small.

Anyway, back to................Here's where the control box for the winch is going:D

DSC01003.JPG

DSC00990.JPG


In other news.

Here's the new steel oil pan. It's a PacificFab, has the extra armor and trapdoor sump. Got a ARP stud kit for it too. Wont have to worry about the stock cast alum one shattering now.

DSC00981.JPG


Here's where the radiator ended up. Well, the drawings for it anyway. It's paid for, not sure when they'll be able to start on it..........cause virus.

DSC01012.JPG

DSC01009.JPG


And to go with the radiator, I'm running a Meziere water pump. It's 7-8gpm more even at idle and flows something like 55-60 at 6k. 4" impeller. All billet, cartridge style.

And yes, color matched full homo AN fittings. Anodized.....not painted.

DSC00977.JPG

DSC00979.JPG

DSC00980.JPG


Hey look, it's a radiator cap.

DSC01032.JPG


Other than the above shit for the engine. It's also getting:
Rocker arm trunion upgrade.
Stiffer pushrods.
FAST intake.
Ported throttle body.
A set of old school looking valve covers.
Coil packs relocated to the firewall.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #748
Since I never notched all the rollcage tubes sticking out the bottom of the tub, yesterday I made the world famous "notch in place" tool. Not to be confused with lesser tools.

First up......A-pillar

DSC01015.JPG


Next up....second B-pillar. Front B got notched when installed.

DSC01016.JPG



As we all know, normal 2" hole saws wont go all the way through a 2" tube......too short.

So take two hole saws, cut them to make one long one.

DSC01019.JPG

DSC01020.JPG


Cut a slot out of 2.25" tube for a welding jig.

DSC01021.JPG


Bam.............one deep throat holesaw.

DSC01025.JPG


Then took a piece of 2.25, put a 2" notch in one end to fit around the cage tube and stuffed the other end with 3" long assorted tube sizes until it was basically a 1" bushing for the shaft to ride on. So with the hole saw longer, it's always riding inside the 2.25" tube and the shaft is supported by all the junk in the end. Sprayed a bit of lube on everything and it just glides in and out of the tube. It sure doesn't feel like the hacked up shit that it is.

DSC01024.JPG


Test fit of the world famous "notch in place tool"

DSC01027.JPG


I'm just going to tack it to the cage tube to hold it in place.


How does it work you might ask? No idea.....going out to see right now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
528 Posts
I couldn't get any good practice stainless welds without a good purge. Whether it was air or even Solarflux on the back side, the flux and/or oxygen would always diffuse through the puddle and end up floating on the work side, turning the weld into dogshit in a hurry.

Looking forward to seeing and hearing this beast in motion.

Welp, that's all I can possibly contribute here. I'll just return to my typical posture while reading your thread :jawdrop:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #750
I couldn't get any good practice stainless welds without a good purge. Whether it was air or even Solar flux on the back side, the flux and/or oxygen would always diffuse through the puddle and end up floating on the work side, turning the weld into dogshit in a hurry.

Looking forward to seeing and hearing this beast in motion.

Welp, that's all I can possibly contribute here. I'll just return to my typical posture while reading your thread :jawdrop:
Thank you Sir,

Ya, I think I'll have the back purge going on the next round with the thicker tube. I finally got my order of 308L filler in, I used the 347 I bought for my headers on the practice mess. From the google, 347 shouldn't have made any difference. The tube and fittings are all 304.
What I really need is a bunch of scrap to practice on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
528 Posts
If you have a band saw and an extra foot of material, you can just cut, weld, and re-cut etc.



Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #752
Happy to report the world famous "notch in place tool" worked like a champ. Though I could definitely tell a difference between the first and last cuts. It wouldn't have lasted through 20 notches.

It wasn't without "the incident" on the first notch..

Do not get stupid and tack your tool to the piece you're cutting OFF. The wildly spinning, very out of balance and pretty heavy tool drill combo you're holding with one hand will try to kill you.

DSC01034.JPG


The shaft took some galling..........because DOM tube really isn't a bearing.

DSC01036.JPG





The results.

A-pillar. Just enough room to weld the bushing tube on when the tub gets pull off for the last time.

DSC01044.JPG

B-pillar.

DSC01042.JPG

DSC01045.JPG

Looking up at the two B's. I know it looks like they aren't lined up at all. They're not supposed to be. Now that I've been dicking around with them again, the thought process returned after two years. Where they "could" line up is right up at the tub where it wouldn't work. So it has to be two separate bushings and you need to be able to get bolts through them both.

I didn't think I could get the world famous "notch in place tool" I hadn't made yet, in there to notch the front B, so I notched it when I installed it. The front B actually had to go in as 4 pieces. I remember the nightmares. What I had forgot was why exactly I left the notch where I did.

Now I know.

So the B's get their own bushings and kind of share mounts. One tab will run between the B's and be used for both. The rear B (notched today)will get a tab for its rear side. The front of the front B ties right in to the body mount on the frame (just need to drill a hole). That's why I put the notch where I did 2 years ago.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #753
If you have a band saw and an extra foot of material, you can just cut, weld, and re-cut etc.



Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Hell, even if I have to burn up everything I have to get up to speed, I need to do it. When it comes right down to it, it's for fuel and oil lines.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,181 Posts
Since I never notched all the rollcage tubes sticking out the bottom of the tub, yesterday I made the world famous "notch in place" tool. Not to be confused with lesser tools.

First up......A-pillar

View attachment 340998


Next up....second B-pillar. Front B got notched when installed.

View attachment 341000



As we all know, normal 2" hole saws wont go all the way through a 2" tube......too short.

So take two hole saws, cut them to make one long one.

View attachment 341002

View attachment 341004


Cut a slot out of 2.25" tube for a welding jig.

View attachment 341006


Bam.............one deep throat holesaw.

View attachment 341008


Then took a piece of 2.25, put a 2" notch in one end to fit around the cage tube and stuffed the other end with 3" long assorted tube sizes until it was basically a 1" bushing for the shaft to ride on. So with the hole saw longer, it's always riding inside the 2.25" tube and the shaft is supported by all the junk in the end. Sprayed a bit of lube on everything and it just glides in and out of the tube. It sure doesn't feel like the hacked up shit that it is.

View attachment 341010


Test fit of the world famous "notch in place tool"

View attachment 341012


I'm just going to tack it to the cage tube to hold it in place.


How does it work you might ask? No idea.....going out to see right now.






"Deepthroat Hole Saw "

fcknA brilliant

:lol:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #755
"Deepthroat Hole Saw "

fcknA brilliant

:lol:

I spent lots of time trying to find deeper holesaws when I was originally doing the cage, since 95% is 2". Was never able to find one. I bought a bunch of different brands just in the hope that one might be 1/4" longer. Nothing,nada.

Now I know why there are notchers like this one from Mittler Bros.


NOTCHER.jpg



But then you've just jumped from a couple hundred dollar tool to one that's 5k.
 

·
Random Dude
Joined
·
3,039 Posts
What I had forgot was why exactly I left the notch where I did.
I've "never" thought I completely fucked something up, then thought through how to fix it, finally realizing I'd done it right :laughing:

Reassuring to know you were smarter a year ago :thefinger:

I keed, I keed - rig's looking awesome Kevin! :beer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #759 (Edited)
I've "never" thought I completely fucked something up, then thought through how to fix it, finally realizing I'd done it right :laughing:

Reassuring to know you were smarter a year ago :thefinger:

I keed, I keed - rig's looking awesome Kevin! :beer:

Thank you Sir,

Keeping notes probably wouldn't hurt when there are multi year gaps. What I'd really like to ask two year ago me........"When will you be getting back on this?"

I dug through the build pics I have and found these.......taken on 3-26-18

DSC09332.JPG

DSC09341.JPG

Not gonna lie, when I walked into the shop today and could no longer see the ends of the cage tube hanging down......I was happy. I meant to do it before I pulled the body off a while ago, but I had tunnel vision on getting the firewall fixed and blew it off. So, it had actually been blown off twice. Ticking off that box had been bugging me.


Why'd you go single u-joint on each end of the driveshaft rather than a CV/double cardan?
Simpler, one less joint to worry about. If I didn't need to have a cv, I figured why put one there. Hopefully, they serve me well, but we'll have to wait and see how they like 486lb/ft of torque.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #760
Nice to be able to buy something and just bolt it on for a change. Sounds stupid I know.

I should have savored that feeling a bit longer.


Ordered 2.5" pinch bolt style bumps. Was told Fox didn't make the cans to mount them, but was given a place that did. That place didn't have them, so the search began. Ended up ordering cans from ProFender.

Arrived today.

These fucking things have one pinch bolt on one end and a top for the screw in style of bump stop.

They shipped from Thailand too.


So I guess I get to modify these cans before I can mount them. I should have just made these fuckers too.









Ok, I feel better now:thefinger:
 
741 - 760 of 793 Posts
Top