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Bone stock 2015 JK Sprot wanting better sound system.

Not some big woofer, multi-amp, bass mobile....just better sound.

Speakers ?
Speaker and amp ?
Amp only ?
New head unit ?
All the above ?
 

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Start with the head unit and go from there.

Sure...adding better speakers might make a difference but it’s marginal and the stock head unit will still cut the low end curve as the volume goes up. Not only that but the stock deck is under powered and will not drive the new speakers properly.

Just my $0.02..
 

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Yes, it is try, in order to get the most improvement in your audio system quality, you should be looking at the pre-amp first. In this case, the head unit.

After that, giving it more power with amps (not even bi-amping) will give you noticeable improvement too.

I've had fancy audio systems in other vehicles but I took a different approach on the jeep.

Not sure what you are starting with but I started with the Alpine system on my 2013 Rubicon.

The way I got the most out of the factory sound system was to do the PRS mode but you may want to hunt down the "PRS+" version of that if you don't have the factory subwoofer in your system.

The PRS mod is a couple of things...

1) Damp the speaker enclosures using something like HushMat. This one package was enough to use on the two front enclosures, the sound bar and the factory sub enclosure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VKVBCY

2) Stuff the speaker enclosures with PolyFil. Don't pack them too tightly, just stuff a little into each enclosure. One package of this should be enough to stuff all of the enclosures (fronts, sound bar plus sub) on 2 vehicles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I04VLU

3) Change the crossover point of your dash tweeters. You do this by replacing the tiny capacitors that are soldered to them. There are two possibilities, depending on what head unit you have. You will need to remove one of the tweeters and read the markings on the capacitor to see which one you currently have. I used a PolyPropelen capacitor on mine which are known to audiophiles as an excellent choice for using in crossover networks. Problem is that they can be huge and I had to wire mine in with extended leads and remotely mount the capacitors. They are about the size of an M80 (explosive).

4) This is the "+" in the "PRS+" modification.... Since your system may not have the factory sub, you can wire one in. The pictures are missing from this thread and it is also on JK Forum but this guy wired in a small Rockford Fosgate amp under the dash. He made some stand off brackets and attached it to the factory amp.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/kicker-crv8-factory-subwoofer-enclosure-install-214817/page3/


You may want to consider the Mopar/Kicker 77KICK10 speakers. I just sold a set because they were not ideal for the Alpine system in my vehicle but are intended as an upgrade for the standard head unit (non-Alpine). One system is like 4 ohms and the other 6 ohms. These speakers are also plug and play with OEM connectors.

I think the other part to the Kicker package is to use the improved amp, 77KICK46 but with that, I think you still need to wire in a subwoofer amp and speaker as it bypasses the bass signal.


Anyway, I am pleased with the PRS mods on the stock Alpine head unit. I listen to the radio at volume with the top off and it works for me on road and on the trail. Bass and midrange are tightened up and more clear.

On my Alpine system, I also did a subwoofer swap of just the driver itself. I used this Pioneer shallow mount dual coil sub as a direct replacement for the stock driver. It fits perfectly in the factory enclosure and with the free wiring adapters that are often included, the coils connected right to the stock wiring for the OEM twin coil sub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQTU434



And the best head unit that I have ever heard in a car was the McIntosh MX406. I had one. It was available with on board Burr Brown DACs or you could get an outboard DAC. The optional meters made it look so cool.... I bought this one because of the pre-amp. No frills or unnecessary features. A real rotary volume know with self cleaning detents. A stout, outboard power supply. yeah, it probably is still among the best head units ever produced. It was made by Clarion and based on the Clarion DRZ-9255.

http://image2.showyoursound.nl/Nadershado/SyS_2008_9_12_10_53_1.jpg


Back in the tape days, I had the venerable Soundstream TC-308 (non-amplified) as a head unit. Only thing better back then was the Nakamichi Dragon head unit if you wanted to pony up for that one.

https://www.abtec.co.nz/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/AB-Pic-002.jpg
 

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Was the Dragon the one that had a tray that popped out and you inserted the tape? I vaguely remember that thing being hot shit.
Yeah, the tray flipped out and manually flipped the tape for auto reverse too or some shit like that. I had to avoid seeing one in person because I would have ended up buying one.

I bought my Soundstream on Telegraph avenue in Berzerkly back in the late 1980s. Had it in my white 1989 Mazda B2600i 4x4.
 

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For what its worth, I have a 13, with the alpine.
1.I have the whole Jeep dynamat and pods and soundbar.
2.still have the stock HU But I have a Audio Control LC8 .
3.JL HD 5/900 amp under the seat .
4.all of the speaker have been upgraded with JLC2s and a stealthbox.
It rocks now.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah, the tray flipped out and manually flipped the tape for auto reverse too or some shit like that. I had to avoid seeing one in person because I would have ended up buying one.

I bought my Soundstream on Telegraph avenue in Berzerkly back in the late 1980s. Had it in my white 1989 Mazda B2600i 4x4.
That's funny. My B2600 had dangling wires and claw marks where my KRACO tape decks kept getting stolen. I finally gave up and carried a little purple boom box around with me.
 

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That's funny. My B2600 had dangling wires and claw marks where my KRACO tape decks kept getting stolen. I finally gave up and carried a little purple boom box around with me.
Did you have the 89 or newer b2600i with the mazda 2.6 or the older one with the Mitsubishi 2.6. Both were "silent shaft" engines and pretty torqy.

That was a big giant double DIN cubby and it could be removed quickly and easily on that truck.
 

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Did you have the 89 or newer b2600i with the mazda 2.6 or the older one with the Mitsubishi 2.6. Both were "silent shaft" engines and pretty torqy.

That was a big giant double DIN cubby and it could be removed quickly and easily on that truck.
Mine was an '88 -- I think it was the Mazda G6 but I could be wrong. I remember it had plenty of torque for such a small truck. I kinda miss it sometimes. No AC, which sucked on a hot day.
 

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Infinity stock system

Hi guys, didn’t want to start another thread, but just want some clarification:

I have a 2011 JKU Sahara, with the 130 radio but with the factory amp and sub, so I guess it’s the infinity system used between 2011 and 2012. I see the alpine system was introduced in 2013.

I upgraded the HU to a Kenwood DD, and it made a HUGE difference, and with the hard top on, it is awesome.

But, as most of us do, I am topless now, and running a rear cargo cover it completely cuts out the bass of the sub.

Will upgrading to component dash speakers (kicker, Polk, etc $120 ish from CF), be a good improvement? I do not want to add a sub under my seat, just looking for a bit more of a fuller sound.

Or is it worth to poly fill the speaker pods and running the stock speakers? I see the kicker comparison and realize the size of the magnets compared to stock, but am unsure what factory speakers (base model or infinity) they are being compared to.

Thanks!
 

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There are a ton of Wrangler specific or tailored aftermarket options and most are pretty good. I can't remember of the 2011 has the newer dash style or the older? If the newer rounded plastics you have a lot more options including some cool 'Restyle' options that don't cost $3K like the Alpine WRA :)

After a ton of research I decided on the latest 10.2" Screen Android 8.0 unit from Dasaita. I'd post a link but I'm Newb status so I guess I got more postin to do before I'm enabled. After doing all my research and answering a ton of questions like this I compiled all my data and whipped together a Wordpress blog to dump it on so if you're curious head over to "Wranglerrestyle . com" and check it out. I think in total I've got comparisons for 15+ Universal (Double DIN) and Restyle units.


As far as the Dasaita goes I found them to be by far the best from a support and updates standpoint (of the Chinese based Android manufacturers)
 
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