When I first got my 07 JK Sahara unl. two years ago the first thing I did was get a 2-1/2 suspension lift which was the only thing that was available. A couple of years later I'd like to upgrading to a 5.5"- 6" long arm suspension lift and wanted to get feed back from you guys of which brand is the best out there! I plan on keeping my 35 x 13.50 tires for now, but want the added clearance because if I go 4" will eventually want to go bigger later! I don't mind spending the $$$ on a good kit now as long as it has the value added in performance. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Best long arm lift for JK
RickM610
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Rock Krawler 5.5 Triple Threat:
The High Clearance Long arms are nice. You can see how high they tuck up. You can't even see the fronts and rarely hit rocks. The geometry is perfect with the three link design for extreme crawling and allows really nice highway and street ride. If a front three link bothers you, simply bolt in the fourth upper link. Unbeatable travel with three or four links. The 5.5 ride height is perfect for 37's or you can easily put on 40's. Solid stock links that are heat treated so they are as strong or stronger than DOM tubing. Kit is almost all welded in for ultimate strength. Adjustable bumpstops. Drag link flip kit and super strong tie rod. Great customer service. What more could you want?
The High Clearance Long arms are nice. You can see how high they tuck up. You can't even see the fronts and rarely hit rocks. The geometry is perfect with the three link design for extreme crawling and allows really nice highway and street ride. If a front three link bothers you, simply bolt in the fourth upper link. Unbeatable travel with three or four links. The 5.5 ride height is perfect for 37's or you can easily put on 40's. Solid stock links that are heat treated so they are as strong or stronger than DOM tubing. Kit is almost all welded in for ultimate strength. Adjustable bumpstops. Drag link flip kit and super strong tie rod. Great customer service. What more could you want?
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Sir
If you have any questions regarding our products simply give us a shout and we will be more than happy to answer them for you! We certainly were not the first to market with our long arm systems! We took our time and did and extensive amount of testing before we released any of our JK systems. We wanted to be sure we did not run into ESP issues or anything for that matter.
Thank you for your interest in our products.
Rock Krawler
If you have any questions regarding our products simply give us a shout and we will be more than happy to answer them for you! We certainly were not the first to market with our long arm systems! We took our time and did and extensive amount of testing before we released any of our JK systems. We wanted to be sure we did not run into ESP issues or anything for that matter.
Thank you for your interest in our products.
Rock Krawler
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739 Posts
I don't know much of the Rock Krawler system, I haven't even seen one yet.
I can give a thumbs up towards the TeraFlex LA and drag link flip kit though. I have had mine on for about 15k miles or so now and I love it. Awesome road manners from just putting around to 80+ mph on the freeway. And off road it handles and articulates nicely and smoothly. Can't say enough good about it.
Good luck with your choice.
I can give a thumbs up towards the TeraFlex LA and drag link flip kit though. I have had mine on for about 15k miles or so now and I love it. Awesome road manners from just putting around to 80+ mph on the freeway. And off road it handles and articulates nicely and smoothly. Can't say enough good about it.
Good luck with your choice.
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736 Posts
Seems like everythings consistant everywhere i hear that RK and TF are two of the best ways to go. This makes it hard b/c i am not good at making up my mind when it comes to spending over a grand on something
Might be time for a personal hybrid:bounce:
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Basic Differences Between RK and Tera
Well, Both us and Teraflex make great JK Products. If we were in your shoes, we would be looking at features versus dollar value. We offer a complete high clearance design. We offer either an independent three link front end design with our X Factor Systems which is my personal favorite and has been used on Comp buggies for years. Or you could go to a full 4 Link front end with our Triple Threat Systems. Both of our long arm systems feature an independent three link rear conversion with adjustable anti-squat!
Both us and Tera offer the drag link flip kits for the steering correction which is great for your JK on the 5.5 and 6.0" levels! We include our HD Drag Link in the systems!
For both track bar relocation brackets we raise the track bar at the axle which improves the roll center of the vehicle!
We have a coil over upgrade available now and a full skid plate package coming for our long arm kits!
We offer a full lifetime warranty on all hard parts no matter what you do!
Now for the bad part! Both us and Tera require welding!
In order to gain all the clearance we provide we require a minor exhaust modification. We do not believe Tera requires any exhaust modifications!
Hope that Helps. We are sure Tera could help point out some differences and further educate everyone!
Rock Krawler
Well, Both us and Teraflex make great JK Products. If we were in your shoes, we would be looking at features versus dollar value. We offer a complete high clearance design. We offer either an independent three link front end design with our X Factor Systems which is my personal favorite and has been used on Comp buggies for years. Or you could go to a full 4 Link front end with our Triple Threat Systems. Both of our long arm systems feature an independent three link rear conversion with adjustable anti-squat!
Both us and Tera offer the drag link flip kits for the steering correction which is great for your JK on the 5.5 and 6.0" levels! We include our HD Drag Link in the systems!
For both track bar relocation brackets we raise the track bar at the axle which improves the roll center of the vehicle!
We have a coil over upgrade available now and a full skid plate package coming for our long arm kits!
We offer a full lifetime warranty on all hard parts no matter what you do!
Now for the bad part! Both us and Tera require welding!
In order to gain all the clearance we provide we require a minor exhaust modification. We do not believe Tera requires any exhaust modifications!
Hope that Helps. We are sure Tera could help point out some differences and further educate everyone!
Rock Krawler
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1,164 Posts
I'd be happy to assist with any questions anyone has--unfortunately I just stumbled on this thread, or I'd have chimed in earlier. Most of the basics have been covered now, especially with that great post by Rock Krawler. 
The one question I have about the RK kits is the type of joints used on the suspension....are they "hard" joints at both ends, or do you use a bushing anywhere? If so, poly or rubber?
The Teraflex arms use a rubber bushing at one end of each, and a spherical joint at the other end. The one exception is the rear upper arms, which have a joint at both ends. That combination keeps everything as quiet as possible, without restricting articulation.
I'll be watching now, in case there are any more questions.
The one question I have about the RK kits is the type of joints used on the suspension....are they "hard" joints at both ends, or do you use a bushing anywhere? If so, poly or rubber?
The Teraflex arms use a rubber bushing at one end of each, and a spherical joint at the other end. The one exception is the rear upper arms, which have a joint at both ends. That combination keeps everything as quiet as possible, without restricting articulation.
I'll be watching now, in case there are any more questions.
I'd be happy to assist with any questions anyone has--unfortunately I just stumbled on this thread, or I'd have chimed in earlier. Most of the basics have been covered now, especially with that great post by Rock Krawler.
The one question I have about the RK kits is the type of joints used on the suspension....are they "hard" joints at both ends, or do you use a bushing anywhere? If so, poly or rubber?
The Teraflex arms use a rubber bushing at one end of each, and a spherical joint at the other end. The one exception is the rear upper arms, which have a joint at both ends. That combination keeps everything as quiet as possible, without restricting articulation.
I'll be watching now, in case there are any more questions.
I can answer some of this, as I'm running the RK Triple Threat kit and can describe each link end and it's placement. Hopefully it will give some insight as to how the RK kit is set up:
The front lowers are made up of a rebuildable spherical joint at the axle end and a very durable poly fixed end at the provided frame mounts. The joints are my favorite part! They do not require grease...but rather use a few drops of 3 in 1 Oil. They seem virtually maintenance free, are quiet, large and are super easy to take apart if a rebuild is ever desired or needed.
The front upper(s), at the axle, are a mounted via a "build-a-ball" joint that you assemble into the factory mount on the diff housing. I run the Triple Threat so I've also welded on the RK heavy duty passenger side mount to the axle tube and assembled another "build-a-ball" joint there as well. At the other end of the link is another joint that is almost identical as the front lowers, just slightly smaller.
I run the 4th link most of the time, until I am ready to do a tough trail. The night before, I unbolt that passenger side upper link and I've got more articulation than I'll ever need. I am not running an axle truss on the long tube side of the Dana 44 front...and is my reasoning for running the 4th link on the street.
At the rear, the use of identical lower arms are installed. They are the same length and size as the front lowers, with the poly bushing at the frame and the spherical joint at the axle. The rear, single upper link, is then attached at the rear RK axle "cradle" and upper mount bracket that are welded in place. The link uses the same sperical type joint at both ends.
So...The only pivot points that do NOT use a joint is where the lower arms mount to the frame. I was hesitant to use a poly bushing here after a bad experience with another manufacturer who also uses poly. So far, the poly bushings are holding up better than I could have imagined. They are not wallowing out, getting sloppy, tearing...and cause no vibrations or a harsh ride to passengers.
A quick shot of the front and rear:
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113 Posts
Glad to see you guys are onleine here! More than likely I will go with your JK 5.5 X FACTOR PLUS COIL OVER LONG ARM SYSTEM sometime this month, but do you have any pictures online of the JK unlimited with this paticular kit?
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4,676 Posts
Tera
Great questions. Here are the answers to our joint construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
![Image]()
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
![Image]()
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
![Image]()
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
We hope this answers your or anyone's questions about our joint contruction! This is typical of all of our systems for the past three years!
Rock Krawler
Great questions. Here are the answers to our joint construction!
The first image is a picture of our Krawler Joint which is our rebuildable spherical joint shown on the right! The first thing you will notice is the the housing is narrow where it bolts into the control arm mounts compared to the joint to the left which is your standard type joint used by the majority of manufacturers! The reason for this is to allow for maximum articulation out of the joint before the housing body hits the control arm mounting bracket. Wide heads as shown on the left contact the mounting brackets prior to ever allowing for maximum articulation which is one of the biggest causes of control arm brackets being torn off the axle in our opinion.
The second image shows the guts our our Krawler Joints which are the heart and sole of their simplicity! There are two impregnated polyurethane race ways which provide nice, smooth, and quiet bind free motion, a 52100 series steel chrome plated ball with built in flanges, and two chromoly thread in retainers. The joint body itself is made from 4340 Heat Treated Chromoly. The biggest thing you will notice about our housing is the narrow head! However, in order to keep the strength of the housing where we want it to be, the wall thickness is a full 1/2" thick! Most wall thicknesses in the industry are 3/16 or 1/4 at best on rebuildable spherical joints! All the shanks are 1" for all the lower control arms! Notice, there is no press required or specialty tools for rebuilding them either. You can actually adjust the preload on the joints while they are still in the vehicle!
The third image shows our standard weld on end and bushing material for the lower control arms at the frame connection! We use the largest bushings in the industry to provide with the best possible vibration free ride! Our tube end used is a 2.5" O.D. 1/4" Wall DOM allowing us to have a massive 2" O.D. 7/8 I.D. Control Arm Bushing. Our control arm bushings are also made from an impregnated poly so they are less likely to squeak! That is why they look so shiny in the picture! Also, notice the relief cut under the head of the flanges of the bushings. This allows for another 15 degrees of misalignment!
We have addressed all the details in our control arm construction to ensure the best possible on highway ride as well as the best possible off road ability without compromise! We are avid Jeep Owners and want to enjoy our Jeeps each and every day both on the street and on the trail. However, when we get to the trail, we do not want to look like an "also ran". We want to be what everyone aspires to be with their JK off road.
Like Tera, our rear uppers are double spherical as well as our front uppers! Our front uppers at the axle also get build a ball joint or another style of rebuildable spherical joint to allow for maximum articulation and provide a nice quiet ride. Typically, when pushed off road the OEM bushings in the front upper mounts are the axle get torn apart pretty quickly so we wanted to address that as well!
We hope this answers your or anyone's questions about our joint contruction! This is typical of all of our systems for the past three years!
Rock Krawler
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RickM610
If you look in our JK Gallery, the 4 door that is the black Rubi model with the silver Rock Krawler down the side was our first 5.5" Long Arm Lifted JK with Full OEM Fenders and 37's to give you some idea. We have not built another JK for our company since then that had full plastic fenders.
Rock Krawler
If you look in our JK Gallery, the 4 door that is the black Rubi model with the silver Rock Krawler down the side was our first 5.5" Long Arm Lifted JK with Full OEM Fenders and 37's to give you some idea. We have not built another JK for our company since then that had full plastic fenders.
Rock Krawler
Looks like you have some good choices! I have been happy with my Teraflex LA and have had good customer experiences with them. Top notch IMHO.
A true 4 link is the way you want to go. Radius arms (especially in the front) like the Rubicon Express kit are not the best setup for rockcrawling. RE makes a goods product and has good service but a true 4 link is favorable off-road.
A true 4 link is the way you want to go. Radius arms (especially in the front) like the Rubicon Express kit are not the best setup for rockcrawling. RE makes a goods product and has good service but a true 4 link is favorable off-road.
Boy.....is that going to open a can of worms! Can't say I agree. I use a three link front, radius arm design in my XJ and can't find a negative with it. My three link front and rear JK wheels waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better than my 4 link JK. My three link JK with RK suspension has more travel, has no squat or dive, is more stable on inclines and descents, as well as off camber situations. With a properly designed three link or radius arm suspension, it can be better in every way. It's not the idea or theory of the design....it's how it is carried out and built with correct geometry.
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We offer a full 4 link front end with the Triple Threat Series or a 3 Link with our X Factor Series.
If you have a vehicle that has a conventional steering system, i.e. steering box with a drag link, there is no better system for high articulation demands and vehicle stability on the trail than an indpendent three link and track bar! The Dec issue of JP Magazine even talked about the "Best Wrangler Suspension" and what the editors described is an independent three link system with track bar and high clearance control arms which is exactly what we offer with out X Factor Series!
That being said, it is not that simple to execute the system. You have to take into account having proper instant centers and proper roll centers!
We have been using the independent three link systems for years as well as comp rigs, it is a very well proven design. But, that being said, we also know some people don't trust it, or don't believe in it, or want the security of a fourth front upper arm and that is why we designed the Triple Threat Series!
Also, when it comes to the back of JK's, if you are running a long arm system that maintains all 4 control arms outboard of the frame, the suspension will naturally bind up in the rear pretty quickly causing vehicle instability!
No matter what systems you choose, wether it be Rock Krawler, RE, or Tera, every one of them works for their designed intent and are good products. You just have to choose the one that will be the best for you! Simply compare features and get what works best for you!
Rock Krawler
If you have a vehicle that has a conventional steering system, i.e. steering box with a drag link, there is no better system for high articulation demands and vehicle stability on the trail than an indpendent three link and track bar! The Dec issue of JP Magazine even talked about the "Best Wrangler Suspension" and what the editors described is an independent three link system with track bar and high clearance control arms which is exactly what we offer with out X Factor Series!
That being said, it is not that simple to execute the system. You have to take into account having proper instant centers and proper roll centers!
We have been using the independent three link systems for years as well as comp rigs, it is a very well proven design. But, that being said, we also know some people don't trust it, or don't believe in it, or want the security of a fourth front upper arm and that is why we designed the Triple Threat Series!
Also, when it comes to the back of JK's, if you are running a long arm system that maintains all 4 control arms outboard of the frame, the suspension will naturally bind up in the rear pretty quickly causing vehicle instability!
No matter what systems you choose, wether it be Rock Krawler, RE, or Tera, every one of them works for their designed intent and are good products. You just have to choose the one that will be the best for you! Simply compare features and get what works best for you!
Rock Krawler
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5,366 Posts
See sig below.
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5,977 Posts
i run the RE kt and it works awesome offroad and on the rocks i would love to see you reasoning for saying they dont work well in the rocks
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5,977 Posts
i just find it funny people are quick to say something negative about a product but nothing factual to back it up
i have been in many modified jk s on and offroad and thats why i wanted the RE kit (i happen to get a great deal on mine thanks river) but all in all it was the kit i was wanting it rides awesome on and offroad it is a bit soft on the road but that will be corrected when i do my coilovers
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346 Posts
I'm a big fan of my RE 4.5" LA, and have a buddy that runs their 3.5" LA and couldn't be happier. It rides excellent and is very well balanced for the rocks. It does well on climbs and decent with very little dive or squat to speak of. The articulation argument is interesting, since out of the box, most if not all of these suspensions are limited by the shocks compressed and extended lengths and not any specific suspension geometry. The high clearance gained from the arms also is a HUGE plus for me. I've been able to clear ledges that much larger Jeeps struggled with because I have an extra couple of inches of clearance due to the mount locations.
Mel's kit at ORE looks interesting though. The brackets look nice(I'm not sure how anyone will be able to afford those arms, very precise machining work but we'll see) I'm curious to hear how the geometry of his system will work with the uppers and lower mounted so close to each other.
Here are a couple of pics of my buddys RE 3.5" LA at full flex(or pretty close).
![Image]()
![Image]()
Mel's kit at ORE looks interesting though. The brackets look nice(I'm not sure how anyone will be able to afford those arms, very precise machining work but we'll see) I'm curious to hear how the geometry of his system will work with the uppers and lower mounted so close to each other.
Here are a couple of pics of my buddys RE 3.5" LA at full flex(or pretty close).
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