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Discussion Starter #1
I plan to drive my 08 JK less than 10k per year. However, as a TOAD he's gonna roll maybe 3x or 4x that amount in tow. 4 flat towing with battery disconnected shouldn't run up odometer or impact tranny or engine. Still the diffs, wheel bearings, drive shafts, transfer case and brakes.are still gonna be used lightly. I want to fill the diffs and TC with something really good. I'm a full syn user, haven't used dino-oils since Mobil One came out in the early 80s.
DISCLAIMER: I'm new to THIS forum, but I've been a part of plenty of these groups. I figure "what's the best oil" is gonna stir up some shit. Still if there is a best answer, I figure it will come from you folks.
 

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I use to swear by royal purple, untill I was changing it quite frequently from heavy use and contamination especially in the front, so I went back to Dino oil in the front and my rear fluid still looks good. I don’t think that there is a “best oil” but I’m of the train of thought where you pick an oil and stick with it. Be it amsoil, Mobile 1, Royal Purple, ect. I like to buy it when I see it on sale so I have it on hand when it is time to do an oil change.

The stock JK wheel bearings and driveshafts are non serviceable units. I guess if you really wanted to you could take the wheel speed sensors out of the unit bearing and pump a bunch of grease in then put the sensor back in. That is a lot of added work for routine maintenance.
 

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I would recommend that Mopar ATF+4 be used in transfercase - as the manual / service instructions call for - & if you wish to use a premium, synthetic diff fluid that can be depended upon I have never used anything other than Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140 in my D44s & 75w-90 in my D30s.

You'll gets lots of opinions since this topic's pretty subjective .


I don't see any need for filling the WSS hole with grease: maybe a bit of silicone superlube if you felt it important but best the tips that sense the teeth not get buildup of stuff which could collect dust and potentially be detrimental to them reading wheel speed tone ring ...

 

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You're not going to hear what's the best, cause nobody complains when something works. And, you never hear reports about failures caused by any of the premium oil brands.

If you're a Mobile One guy, stick with them. They make good stuff.
 

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diff oil

I used Castrol's 75w-90 dino in my diffs, plus an additive in the rear for the Trac Loc., about 3500 - 4000 miles ago. All's been good.

However, I let a Jeep dealership do an oil change two weeks ago, and big surprise, they told me that I needed to change the differential fluids. I should have asked for their quotation, but I didn't let the conversation get that far.
 

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I used Castrol's 75w-90 dino in my diffs, plus an additive in the rear for the Trac Loc., about 3500 - 4000 miles ago. All's been good.

However, I let a Jeep dealership do an oil change two weeks ago, and big surprise, they told me that I needed to change the differential fluids. I should have asked for their quotation, but I didn't let the conversation get that far.




With great writeups and guides on this forum and via Google search, it's one of the easiest self service routines an owner can perform , changing diff fluid in the JKs. They have housing drain plugs so you needn't even remove the diff cover to just replace the gearlube.

That is between $150 & $350 bucks you could use for other stuff instead of giving it to a dealer service center at 300% markup. Unless you still have free maintenance or something ..

Just saying...


 

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Seems everyone here is on the same track. Use good name brand oil and you will be perfectly fine.

If you do change diff covers, go to Lube lockers. That is the only recommendation I can give in this fight. RTV is nasty and having to clean all that stuff off if you want to inspect sucks. I still have hole in my heart when @j3ff3ry_j33p sent me dirty covers. :thefinger:
 

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Seems everyone here is on the same track. Use good name brand oil and you will be perfectly fine.

If you do change diff covers, go to Lube lockers. That is the only recommendation I can give in this fight. RTV is nasty and having to clean all that stuff off if you want to inspect sucks. I still have hole in my heart when @j3ff3ry_j33p sent me dirty covers. :thefinger:
what ? I was just makin sure they did not leak.


 

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+1 on the lube lockers. Scraping the old rtv off sucked.

Also, when adding new diff covers , torque the bolts down to 20 ft-lbs. if you try for the 35 ft-lbs, you’re going to have a bad day.
 

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My Toad has been pulled from coast to coast several times, it has thousands of miles behind my motorhome ( on 37's), I run Mobil 1 everywhere, never any problems. I don't disconnect the battery, and it has never added any mileage to the odometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't see the point as the transfer case is disengaged and the wheel bearings are not lubed by the diff oil and there is no load on the diff when towing.
I understand that the TC is in neutral, and there is not significant load on the diffs, BUT, all four axles, both diffs, both driveshafts and the TC output shaft will still be spinning at full hiqhway speed, right? I'm just trying to do anything I can to avoid having a problem in the middle of BC or Alaska, or Kansas for that matter. Thanks to all who weighed in. Sorry I'm so late to the party, looks like some of the guests have already headed home.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My Toad has been pulled from coast to coast several times, it has thousands of miles behind my motorhome ( on 37's), I run Mobil 1 everywhere, never any problems. I don't disconnect the battery, and it has never added any mileage to the odometer.
That's good to know. I set up mine so that I could disconnect the battery from the chassis, but still power the brake lights and RVi Brake system. Had a non-chip key cut so that I can leave the ignition on, without much risk of theft. I've had the JK for about 3 weeks now, and have completed the towing setup, but I won't have the actual Motor Home until May 1, so I'm working on theory for now. No way to test any of the towing setup. I certainly plan to test around home to see if there is any need to disconnect the battery. Honestly I'd rather not. I installed a battery charger from the tow cable hot plug, so I might be in good shape without opening the hood all the time. That would be great. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i haven't had any issues with amsoil in my diffs and T-case. My jeep occasionally gets flat towed too.
Does Amsoil make an ATF+4 synthetic? Or am I just confused. What Amsoil product do you put in your T-Case? (My last T-Case was on a 51 Willys and I think we filled the 3 speed tranny, the T-Case, and both diffs with the same 90w gear lube). Not so many choices in '71. Had to keep a firm hand on the shifter all the time, or it would jump out of high gear (3rd) within 3-5 seconds of letting go. Don't know what I would have done without my steering wheel spinner!
 

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Does Amsoil make an ATF+4 synthetic? Or am I just confused. What Amsoil product do you put in your T-Case? (My last T-Case was on a 51 Willys and I think we filled the 3 speed tranny, the T-Case, and both diffs with the same 90w gear lube). Not so many choices in '71. Had to keep a firm hand on the shifter all the time, or it would jump out of high gear (3rd) within 3-5 seconds of letting go. Don't know what I would have done without my steering wheel spinner!


you plug in your year,make & model vehicle by setting up a profile & " garage" on Amsoil website. Then, you will be able to see all products suited for the model you e got.

They make an ATF+4 ( equivalent ) but there are caveats and data too involved with trying to reiterate for you here, bud. I sggst that you go spend a little time on the Amsoil site doing research & once you've read that come and ask that question.

Or just appease the wrnty gods and use the recommended ATf+4 Mopar
 
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