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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2014 unlimited rubicon. I put a teraflex 3" 8arm lift kit with 35's. Stopping distance has been reduced. I ordered the Teraflex big rotor kit and was wondering about upgraded brake pads. Any suggestions?
 

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My WJ went through pads and rotors like a fat kid goes through a can of Pringles, and the only rotor/pad combo I found that didn't wear so quickly was the Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors coupled with their Evolution series ceramic brake pads. I went from a brake job once a year for the first 3 years I owned my WJ to just replacing the pads after 3 years of use! The pads had a lot more bite than standard metal alloy pads, they were dead silent, and there was hardly any brake dust to deal with. Needless to say, I will be using Powerstop products when my JK is due for a brake job!
 

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I've used EBC Green Stuff pads on two cars and Yellow Stuff pads on one with great results. I'm nowhere near needing new pads on the JK, but when the time comes, I'm going with Green Stuff. I think the Yellow Stuff might be a bit overkill for something that rarely sees 80mph, although they did decrease the stopping distance on my SRT-4 65-0 by over 10%. Gonna pair them with either turned or new OEM replacement rotors.
 

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I'm confused... Don't you want to reduce your stopping distance? Isn't that what the big break kit will do for you?
 

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I have the HPS Hawks with the TF big rotor kit and it stops pretty well. I haven't done any hard stop tests after they've been broken in, but they to have good initial bite.
 

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I'm confused... Don't you want to reduce your stopping distance? Isn't that what the big break kit will do for you?
Upgrading rotor diameter without changing the pads isn't quite taking advantage of the entire setup. The larger rotor has more of a mechanical advantage, it also has a thermal advantage, being able to dissipate/absorb more heat before fading. So a more aggressive pad can be used to complement that.
 

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Upgrading rotor diameter without changing the pads isn't quite taking advantage of the entire setup. The larger rotor has more of a mechanical advantage, it also has a thermal advantage, being able to dissipate/absorb more heat before fading. So a more aggressive pad can be used to complement that.
I have 15's so I swapped in slotted rotors. I figured you'd have to switch to bigger pads with the teraflex kit.
 

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I have 15's so I swapped in slotted rotors. I figured you'd have to switch to bigger pads with the teraflex kit.
They're big rotor kit keeps OEM calipers, so not necessarily.
 

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I've got the EBC Green Stuff pads on my JK with the stock rotors. They have awesome bite while they still have the break in coating, but once that wears off I think they weren't much better then stock. If I stand on the pedal they will stop, just don't have as much initial bite as Id like on my BRAKES for such a large vehicle.

I'm also running 15" rims so can't go to a larger rotor, haven't started looking but will probably try another pad/rotor combo once these wear out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for all the input. I'm leaning toward the hawks. I'll let you know in a few weeks how it works out.
 

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Has anyone installed both the EBC Green stuff pads with an upgraded slotted/drilled or dimpled rotor?
 

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Has anyone installed both the EBC Green stuff pads with an upgraded slotted/drilled or dimpled rotor?
Unless you're tracking a car, drilled and slotted rotors are mostly show. You're not stopping from speed often enough on the streets to take advantage of the additional heat dissipation they offer. You'd be better off with a big brake/twin piston conversion for more bite for street use.
 

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I noticed the same thing when I went to 35s. I switched to Black Magic pads and the difference is significant.
 

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I don't have experience with slotted rotors offroad but, contrary to some opinions/experiences, I thought the slots could prevent/clear out build-up of dirt/mud between the pads and rotors.

Really, what's the difference in swept area with a solid rotor vs slotted if your pads have a channel cut through them or they're countersunk for rivets?
So you get full pads on a solid rotor to enhance the swept area; couldn't you trap debris, thus screwing up the pads and rotors?
 
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