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I guess you skimmed right past this part of my opening thread:

"I am prepared to upgrade both the tie rod and drag link with one of the above mentioned aftermarket solutions."

nah, I saw that but thought you were not averse to it but it sounded to me like if you could make the current OEM still work / cease to *thwackthud* , you'd prefer that route.

my bad.

I use that aftermarket dustcap solution on my older synergy DL even w/ the TREs clocked to prevent slop, fwiw. Just throwing you options.

For my use case , I'd probably go w/ Synergy Mfg & thier upgraded , black cap TRE boots that're on both the JK tierod and thier updated JK draglink w/ the fancy directional TRE. All thst'd be more than suitable from your usage scenario ,I'd think.

I actually tweaked my Synergy TR after 3-4 years of trail only use & they replaced it for me quickly after I confirmed it. Can't beat that.




 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I ended up installing the Steersmarts Yeti XD drag link and tie rod. My “clunk” up front is gone.

If you’re not familiar with these, both the drag link and tie rod have what they call “reverse pin” rod ends on the passenger side ends. Basically, this is just a slotted ball joint, where the rotation is limited, not allowing the tie rod nor the drag link to rotate front to back, eliminating the flop. The driver’s side ball joints are standard to accommodate the mis-alignment encountered with steering and suspension movement.

Hopefully they’ll wear well and not get sloppy anytime soon.
 

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Yea, I don’t think there’s a solution out there for the stock tie rod, other than replacing it. But I’ve read where some were experiencing this problem under 20k miles.

Thanks for the feedback on the Synergy.

How many miles do you have on it? Still running the first set of synergy caps? Problem hadn’t crept back in?
I have 30,000 mi on it. Yes I’m on the first set with no problems it has been great.
 

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Chiming in here. I have a 2013 JKU, 33” Tires, AEV 2.5 Lift At 40k. Never been off road. This is a daily driver.
I am wanting to solve my tie rod AND drag link flop also. By my ear, it has all been flopping since 10k miles. I drive in NYC and I hit so many freaking potholes and speed bumps and bad roads - that’s why I got the Jeep.

I would like to just FIX the flopping problem. I don’t need new fancy hydraulic damped steering parts for $1500. Seems like the stock components were designed to clank from the outset.

I don’t see how, with the front bend of the TR, that the thing would not rotate forwards all the time. The TR is always rotated down, and the smallest bump sends it up and clanking. It’s like the designed it to make noise And wear out.

Steering is the same vague feeling from the start. Not really any worse. Maybe it is worse, but I got used to it. No DW, no shimmy from the tires at 75mph. I did the suspension work myself, everything torqued up properly and correctly. Got pro alignment 5k miles ago.

So, at 65k, I am deciding to “upgrade” to aftermarket solutions, or buy a rubber booger to keep the TR straight, or what? I want to get ride of the clank and extend th elife of all the joints.

I suppose I am pissed off that this modern vehicle (ha ha) has such a basic problem that degreades the ride experience in daily life. If it was a weekend rock-crawler, I would not care. As it is, it feels like the aforementioned 100k miles rattle trap truck.
 

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2010 JK Rubicon, 6-sp, 4" Old Man Emu lift, 35's, 4.88's
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39 Posts
A ball joint causing a rod to flop should have absolutely no noticeable change in vehicle performance, because no geometry is changing during the flop event. There's nothing inherently wrong with tie rod flop unless you have hydro assist (and even then, I think it's blown way out of proportions on the internet unless the installation geometry is just awful).

If it really is changing the vehicle's performance, you probably have worn ends.
(old post alert) unless the tie rod flop is causing death wobble...which was the case with me. Also, given the "dog-leg" in the JK tie rod, an ever-so-slight change in geometry is possible with deflection. My JK, which I bought used about 7 months ago now, developed a serious case of death wobble. The previous owner had upgraded the tie rod and drag link to Teraflex units. Given the suggestion from member on this forum who pointed out that Teraflex ends have adjustable preload, I was able to adjust to preload to remove the flop and eliminate the death wobble.

So to the OP's question, TF tire rod ends are pretty good for eliminating the flop, but you'll have to adjust them periodically.
 

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Rare parts uses something called a lockout washer instead of a boot which keeps things from flopping. I like their solution best.
Problem is, I think it only works with their TRE / Cartridge setup. I compared one to a Synergy TRE and it dwarfs the Synergy end.
 

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Listen, I have been stewing over that yoke since they arrived yesterday.
Can one of the smart people here explain why they would move from a press formed, zinc coated, steel bracket with what I believe was a pressed in thread.... to... that. I haven't done any tests but it looks like cast steel that's been roughly ground into the shape of a yoke. Guessing it's to reduce complexity and cost?
 

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I have a 2016 JK with stock tie rod and drag link. 48k miles. All ball joints are still in good enough shape to not warrant replacement just yet. However, my tie can easily be moved up and down, feeling the "clunk" when it bangs against the internal ball joint assemblies. I can move this by hand, reproducing the clunk, as well as having strapped a camera under the vehicle to watch the tie rod slam up and down over bumps. Synergy offers the TRE dust caps to help eliminate this with their tie rod. Yeti/Steersmarts has some type of "Reverse Pin" ball joint to eliminate this. Teraflex has adjustable pre-load on their ball joints to address this. Any of the options is a $300 - $400+ investment (for just the tie rod). Any experts on "JK Tie Rod Flop" that could argue why one of the above mentioned solutions would be better than another?

In searching this forum, I did also see a photo from PIG showing a Synergy TRE that was slotted, preventing it from rotating front to back.

I've been searching for a solution for months, with no definitive results that are recent that can be confirmed by any of the above mentioned manufacturers. I've clocked my stock TRE's with some success, yet, over time, the clunkiness comes back. I tried mounting a Rough Country dual steering stabilizer to the stock tie rod, to see if I could affect the tie rod flop at all with the additional support of dual overhead stabilizers. I tried multiple angles of the mounts (both on the axle and the ends of the tie rod). This did not help at all. Actually made it worse. It simply added more mass to "flop" around when going over bumps. Needless to say, that came off with about 50 miles of trying it out. I'm back to a fully stock steering setup, including the stock stabilizer at its factory mounts.
I got an alert this am about another post on this thread and a thought popped into my head. Oh Dear! Right!? :rolleyes::ROFLMAO:

I am by far not an expert in any shape or form and I could totally be way off. I thought I had a bad tie rod end on my Yeti steering so I reached out for a replacement. When I talked to Yeti they said no way their ends go bad and to check my steering knuckle. Totally on the money. I had wallowed out the hole on my steering knuckle.

The first picture is the new one. The second is the old one with the wallowed out hole. It is the original factory steering knuckle.

Electric blue Auto part Metal Fashion accessory Titanium


Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design Auto part
 

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I have a 2016 JK with stock tie rod and drag link. 48k miles. All ball joints are still in good enough shape to not warrant replacement just yet. However, my tie can easily be moved up and down, feeling the "clunk" when it bangs against the internal ball joint assemblies. I can move this by hand, reproducing the clunk, as well as having strapped a camera under the vehicle to watch the tie rod slam up and down over bumps. Synergy offers the TRE dust caps to help eliminate this with their tie rod. Yeti/Steersmarts has some type of "Reverse Pin" ball joint to eliminate this. Teraflex has adjustable pre-load on their ball joints to address this. Any of the options is a $300 - $400+ investment (for just the tie rod). Any experts on "JK Tie Rod Flop" that could argue why one of the above mentioned solutions would be better than another?

In searching this forum, I did also see a photo from PIG showing a Synergy TRE that was slotted, preventing it from rotating front to back.

I've been searching for a solution for months, with no definitive results that are recent that can be confirmed by any of the above mentioned manufacturers. I've clocked my stock TRE's with some success, yet, over time, the clunkiness comes back. I tried mounting a Rough Country dual steering stabilizer to the stock tie rod, to see if I could affect the tie rod flop at all with the additional support of dual overhead stabilizers. I tried multiple angles of the mounts (both on the axle and the ends of the tie rod). This did not help at all. Actually made it worse. It simply added more mass to "flop" around when going over bumps. Needless to say, that came off with about 50 miles of trying it out. I'm back to a fully stock steering setup, including the stock stabilizer at its factory mounts.

I am prepared to upgrade both the tie rod and drag link with one of the above mentioned aftermarket solutions. And while I will appreciate the extra strength gained for offroad performance, I am more interested in a solid feeling front end when driving over the wash board-like streets of South Louisiana. When the flop is gone (from careful clocking), the suspension feels nice and solid (smooth). When the tie rod flops and clunks, it degrades the ride down to that of an old truck with 100k+ miles on the ball joints and suspension bushings.

Looking for those who have experience with tie rod clunk and with the products listed above. Who does addresses tie rod flop (which manufacturer)?
Before finding this thread I made my own regarding this issue. I cant feel or hear the clunk but with the jeep on a lift and rotating the tie rod back and forth it actually "steers" the wheels slightly. Like you I have no slop in the joints when applying steering force. I am also tired of white knuckle rides and throwing $$$ at this POS, so wondering if anyone has any experience with this??
"2016 JKU all over the road, steering problems, white knuckle ride"
 

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I have a 2016 JK with stock tie rod and drag link. 48k miles. All ball joints are still in good enough shape to not warrant replacement just yet. However, my tie can easily be moved up and down, feeling the "clunk" when it bangs against the internal ball joint assemblies. I can move this by hand, reproducing the clunk, as well as having strapped a camera under the vehicle to watch the tie rod slam up and down over bumps. Synergy offers the TRE dust caps to help eliminate this with their tie rod. Yeti/Steersmarts has some type of "Reverse Pin" ball joint to eliminate this. Teraflex has adjustable pre-load on their ball joints to address this. Any of the options is a $300 - $400+ investment (for just the tie rod). Any experts on "JK Tie Rod Flop" that could argue why one of the above mentioned solutions would be better than another?

In searching this forum, I did also see a photo from PIG showing a Synergy TRE that was slotted, preventing it from rotating front to back.

I've been searching for a solution for months, with no definitive results that are recent that can be confirmed by any of the above mentioned manufacturers. I've clocked my stock TRE's with some success, yet, over time, the clunkiness comes back. I tried mounting a Rough Country dual steering stabilizer to the stock tie rod, to see if I could affect the tie rod flop at all with the additional support of dual overhead stabilizers. I tried multiple angles of the mounts (both on the axle and the ends of the tie rod). This did not help at all. Actually made it worse. It simply added more mass to "flop" around when going over bumps. Needless to say, that came off with about 50 miles of trying it out. I'm back to a fully stock steering setup, including the stock stabilizer at its factory mounts.

I am prepared to upgrade both the tie rod and drag link with one of the above mentioned aftermarket solutions. And while I will appreciate the extra strength gained for offroad performance, I am more interested in a solid feeling front end when driving over the wash board-like streets of South Louisiana. When the flop is gone (from careful clocking), the suspension feels nice and solid (smooth). When the tie rod flops and clunks, it degrades the ride down to that of an old truck with 100k+ miles on the ball joints and suspension bushings.

Looking for those who have experience with tie rod clunk and with the products listed above. Who does addresses tie rod flop (which manufacturer)?
Idk how to reply directly but use the metalcoak one. They are the best. The tre are literally designed to be anti flop lol and the warranty is worth every penny

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
 
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