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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys - trying to pick out beadlocks and change up wheels/tires. Few questions...

1) I'll be running PR60s at 68.5" (standard "full" width) with bolt on coilovers and long arms. What backspacing would you advise on this setup? I'm hearing 3.5" to 4.5" but would feel a lot better if someone can help me with a specific maximum before I hit clearance issues...

2) Wheel choice. I'm 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern so I need wheels to fit that. Debating 8.5-10" width ranges. Diggin the TrailReady look/quality and looking hard at the Trail Worthy Fab double D's (I know they're a vendor here and have been great with info so far!).
-Would anyone have serious hesitation on weight? TR's are under 40lbs (36ish for the narrow ones) vs the TWF are 62-64lbs.
-The TR setup would be a single beadlock 17x8.5 in 3.5" BS or more VS the TWF would be 17x10 double beadlock in 2.5" BS or more (can still do 3-3.5").

Appreciate your thoughts and input!
 

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If you're going 40's, I'd run the TR's in 3.5 backspace. It's actually what I'm currently running right now but I'm only on 37's.



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Research, bro!
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I sit at about 5" height on Curries (68.75 iirc) w/ 40" Trail Grapplers. 4" backspace TrailReadys. At full lock I just kiss the frame - paint worn off but no binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you're going 40's, I'd run the TR's in 3.5 backspace. It's actually what I'm currently running right now but I'm only on 37's.

Thank you, sounds like I still do need the 3.5" or less despite the added axle width with the 40x13.5 I guess...

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I sit at about 5" height on Curries (68.75 iirc) w/ 40" Trail Grapplers. 4" backspace TrailReadys. At full lock I just kiss the frame - paint worn off but no binding.
So I assume the TR Hardrock series is a no go then (17x10 at 4.75" BS) and I'd have rubbing issues?
TR Hardrock 024 17x10" Beadlock Wheel

Anyone have reservations about a 62-64lb wheel on the PR60s w 40s (prob 155lbs total) vs that of a 36-38lb wheel (125-130lb total)?
 

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The Wheelin Man's Friend
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I'd recommend 3.5" back spacing. The TR Hard Rocks have the 4.75" back spacing you mentioned and I wouldn't recommend them on a JK set up with 4.5" of lift and 40s. You want less back spacing so you aren't rubbing the frame or control arms.

Here's mine on UD60s (69" WMS) with 3.5" back spaced Trail Ready and 40x13.50 Treps.

PS...stop worrying about weights. You bought one ton axles.



 

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I am interested in their response/solution. My preference would be to run the TR 17HD wheels with 4.5" BS and 68.5-69" WMS on 40" Nittos TG.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ben from TNT runs a 69" 1-ton WMS setup with coilovers basically in stock positions (basically the same as my in progress setup).
He's also running the 17x10" TR Hardrocks at 4.75" BS with full lock to lock steering (without limiting), no major interference, and good articulation with 40x13.5x17s (no spacers, significant stretch, or other trickery). Says at really full passenger side turn there's a spot that rubs paint on the frame but nothing major.
That's what I needed to hear, so I'll be guinea pigging that setup soon here!

Marcus - are you saying with sincerity that bringing the backspacing in 1.25" would then cause major rubbing, contact, and interference issues? I test fitted a set of 37s on 10" wide wheels with 4.5" BS today and had plenty of room to spare?
PS - I'm the Houston local who has been inviting you out to wheel lately who just did Hidden Falls. Just so you have a name w the SN.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do tell. Wheel spacers? Push axle forward?
My thoughts too. What did they have for a solution?
I am interested in their response/solution. My preference would be to run the TR 17HD wheels with 4.5" BS and 68.5-69" WMS on 40" Nittos TG.
Ben from TNT runs a 69" WMS axle with coilovers at basically stock positions on 40x13.5x17s running the TR Hardrocks at 17x10 on 4.75" BS. Says there is no major interference, contact, brake clearance issues, or rubbing (without spacers, major stretch, limited steering, or other trickery). Has one small spot where the driver's side frame pokes out that has paint rub off (like described above). Sounds like these wheels are GTG for my setup. TNT, Dynatrac, Larry from TR, etc. all encouraged me to try them. I test fit 37s on 4.5" BS 10" wide wheels today to test it out and had no real tight clearance spots at locked turning...So I guess I'll be guinea piggin them shortly here...

Marcus - Hello from your Houston local buddy who just recently invited you to go wheelin' at Hidden Falls (so you have a name w the SN). Are you saying if you had 1.25" more backspacing you'd have major rubbing or have to start limiting steering?
 

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A lower back spacing number pushes the wheels out further. The higher number will have the wheels/tires closer to the frame, causing the interference issues you are worried about.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A lower back spacing number pushes the wheels out further. The higher number will have the wheels/tires closer to the frame, causing the interference issues you are worried about.
I'm versed w back spacing but appreciate your post. I'm just specifically discussing 4.75" BS on this 68.5" WMS axle setup.

Lower BS numbers also add wear to ball joints, widen track width, leave suspension and brake components less protected, and lessen road manners at speed.

Hopefully Marcus will chime in here w more real world commentary too.
 

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If TnT can make them work on a similar setup, then I say go for it. If anything your front bottom ball joints and your rear brake calipers will be covered and better protected. You just gotta watch for frame and/or suspension rubbage at full stuff.


Pull the trigger.....



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Discussion Starter #18
If TnT can make them work on a similar setup, then I say go for it. If anything your front bottom ball joints and your rear brake calipers will be covered and better protected. You just gotta watch for frame and/or suspension rubbage at full stuff.


Pull the trigger.....



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Trigger fully pulled - everything on order and paid up. Pics to follow!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lower wheel offsets sticking the wheels out further end up with more tracking of the wheels into imperfections in the road, wandering, larger turning radius, and more jittery steering input due to less optimal scrub radius in relation to the knuckle geometry. Jeeps often run 3.5" or less offset to clear components w wide tires, but that doesn't mean it's common (check out how many wheels are available in offsets that low) or a favorable thing to do...
 
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