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· A JKO DICK
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

It's time for ball joints and I can't stop arguing with myself.

I have a D30 that I hope to upgrade to a PR44 or Tera44 in the next year or so and don't wanna spend any more than I need to on ball joints unless they can be removed and re-used. I also don't want to buy unsafe crap that will last a month.

It seems that Poly and Alloy USA have the best balls at the best price, but the alloys are at least $50 less. Has anyone been running the Alloys for a while and can let me know what you think?

Any other suggestions for reasonably priced ball joints is appreciated.

Now for the install. I don't have a ball joint press, but I do have some big ass C-clamps. Do you guys think the C-clamp and some big sockets for spacers will work for removal and install?

And last, is it possible and if so safe to remove and re-install ball joints?

Thanks everyone,
Gary
 

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No way on the c clamps. Get the bj press, autozone and advance should have the loaner tools if you don't want to buy one.

Check doc's and woods videos for installation. Sorry if it wasn't such a pain on my phone I would link them for you. Seems doc cut a piece of tubing to make the correct spacer for installing or removing (been a while since I watched it) because the standard kit didn't come with the one he needed.

I would never put in ball joints with the intention of reusing them later. I'm sure it's possible if you didn't damage them coming out but if you are looking at spending pr44 bucks in the future I don't see the benefit of saving a few dollars on used bj's.
 

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after the balljoint install i did on mine with the help of a couple of jeep buddies last week ill say i cant imagine that they would be reusable. the way ball joints press into the c they fit so tight it seems they are a single use item. take them out and they will no longer be as tight, even if you properly press and remove them.

as someone said just go to an auto parts store and rent one of theirs. the install with hand tools (no air impact) is a complete bitch, but can be done. make sure you have a dead blow hammer, and a pickle fork (can be rented at a parts store as well) will come in handy when you are trying to remove the knuckles off the ball joints.

i went with the poly joints and all my steering woes and problems have went away. fwiw the alloy joints are ripoffs of polys design, mind as well spend your money with the people who originally came up with them.
 

· A JKO DICK
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I like the Poly's but I'm not convinced they are better than the USA's
And not to be a dick, but if we only bought "the original" we'd still be driving model t's. :D

I've watched the videos. It seems like a lot of work, but not difficult. I'll probably just make a trip to Harbor Freight and get a press.

Thanks again.
 

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Any after market ball joint is a chore to install. It is because the body is deeper than a stock joint. So ultimately the press in deeper into the 'C' thus more friction.

If you're upgrading anyway later, why not just get a Crown joint from autozone. Cheap and much easier to install. The selling point of a poly, etc is they'll last, but you don't need longevity, if you're upgrading soon.

I second to not reuse. I had polys on my rubi 44 and when I got a prorock I bought new polys.

Autoparts stores will loan you a ball joint press, and you'll need to rent the 4x4 kit of adapters.
 

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Gary, not sure if you are aware. Poly dropped there price for a set of ball joints to $200, so they are the same price now as the Alloys.

And you can rent a ball joint tool from auto zone for free. Make sure to get the extra 4WD cup set they have, they come in handy.
 

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And not to be a dick, but if we only bought "the original" we'd still be driving model t's. :D
eh... my only point was that its pretty obvious alloy is a blatent rip off of the original. you dont gain anything "more" by going to the alloys, unless you can find them for less than $200, which is possible i guess. if not, for the same price you can get the polys.
 

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Like many are saying, it really just boils down to whether or not you want to spend the money on the Poly's or just grab a cheap aftermarket set to get you through till you get the new axles. I'd go Poly's over Alloy just due to Poly's track record for the time being.

If you rent a good ball joint removal tool and use a good impact wrench you should have them changed in less than an hour even having it be your first time. Once the old ones are pressed out, make sure you use emery cloth or a dremel with a emery wheel and clean up the socket very well. Then grease the new ball joint before pressing it in. It will make your like much more bearable than dry fitting it. Also don't panic when the upper ball joints start to go in a little crooked, they will straighten themselves out as they get closer to seating.

Just take your time and make sure everything is in alignment prior to gassing the impact. Common sense goes a long way here so you will probably do just fine. Also, I don't recommend trying to use old ball joints or ones that have been removed. You can do it but why bother. Once you put them in just leave then unless you are changing them out again. my 2 cents. Good luck
 

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eh... my only point was that its pretty obvious alloy is a blatent rip off of the original. you dont gain anything "more" by going to the alloys, unless you can find them for less than $200, which is possible i guess. if not, for the same price you can get the polys.
Just an FYI the Poly and Alloy joints are completely different. So I don't know where you are getting the Alloy ripped of Poly stuff. Different materials, construction, looks, etc. two totally different joints.

I run Poly's because I run RCV's and they are the only joints that work with them. I have installed a number of sets of the alloys and I can say they are good joints too. I don't think you can go wrong with either set.
 

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I don't know what kind of mods you have done to your D30, but if you plan on reselling it then used aftermarket BJs could be a selling point... FWIW I just bought a built D30 and it needed BJs.
 

· A JKO DICK
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everyone,

As always great info.

I saw that Poly has lowered their price, but the USA's can be had for under $150 from forum vendors and less elsewhere. I know it's only $50 bucks, but if they'll do the job why spend the extra.

I'll make sure to grease the outside before install and load them with grease before I drop the Jeep.

I'm doing as little to the D30 as possible. Teraflex gussets and that's it. I have 4:10's that seem ok with the 35's so I'm not gearing it either. I will have to replace my rear also as I'm stuck with a D35 another reason for not re-gearing. :suicide:

Thanks again everyone,
Gary
 

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Ive installed both and am running the Alloys on my Jeep. I like the clear boots on the Poly's/Synergy. I went alloy cause they were cheaper, heck for a set of four they were less than moogs. Ive only had them in for four months. They were tight as hell when first installed and were pretty freaky to drive as the Jeep wouldnt return to zero on its own. Theyve since broken in and feel fine.
 
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