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Discussion Starter #1
So I need some clearing up on this issue. What is the exact encompassing difference between a d30 and d44 I HAVE searched and read some articles but non the less am still confused. The question I have is, is the difference in the 2 just the axle shafts or is it the whole housing? Also if I have a d30 housing can I put d44 axle shafts in it? Thanks to all that can help me with this.


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from what ive read the only difference is the pumpkin...tubes are same shafts are different spline tho 32 i think vs 27 for the 30meaning youd need a different carrier...think you can do a 30 spline setup tho like the regular 44 in the rear
 

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Ah ha I see. So it's just so you can go up to5.32 gears and stronger shafts. But when I go with 5.13 I can get a 32 spline carrier and get the stronger axle shafts?


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Ah ha I see. So it's just so you can go up to5.32 gears and stronger shafts. But when I go with 5.13 I can get a 32 spline carrier and get the stronger axle shafts?


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You are confusing yourself.

They are two different axles with two different housings.

You can't make your D30 into a D44.
 

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^ what he said...you can beef it up tho... Rcv shafts ...sleeves n gussets
cant do anything about the wee tiny ring n pinion of dana 30 5:13's tho:laughing:
 

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For the JK, the difference between the two is the carrier area- the D30 is smaller, and takes JK-specific D30 ring & pinion, but standard carriers. The D30 comes with either 3.21 or 3.73 gears in stock form, or 4.10's in SOME '07-08's, with 27-spline shafts. The JK D44 comes in the Rubicon with JK-specific D44 ring & pinions, and only the smaller-sized D44 carriers. It comes stock with 4.10 gears and an e-locker (NOT an Eaton E-locker- it's Mopar-specific) and 30-spline shafts.
Externally, a larger diff area ("pumpkin" is NOT entirely accurate, as that traditionally refers to a "third member [not sexual, either, sadly :)]", as in a Ford 9-inch) and a wire from the locker are the only visible differences. Most of the small parts are the same. Also, axle tubing diameter is the same crap-tastic 2.5" (not 100% on exact diameter, but 2.5" is pretty close), so both axle housings benefit greatly from sleeving. Control arm, spring, and shock mounts are identical from housing to housing.


Done from memory, so I'm not 100% sure of all the #'s, but I know I'm damn close- :) Mark W.
 

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Wow thank you gentlemen. I really appreciate the info. I needed it to make my decision on either buying an X or Rubicon. Looks like I can just strengthen the d30 and save the money in the difference and up grade to rockjock 60 when I break it. Thanks hitmoney on the 5.38 thread. As for the rcv axles I saw docs review on them and decided I need to incorporate them into my build. Once again thanks


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Wow thank you gentlemen. I really appreciate the info. I needed it to make my decision on either buying an X or Rubicon. Looks like I can just strengthen the d30 and save the money in the difference and up grade to rockjock 60 when I break it. Thanks hitmoney on the 5.38 thread. As for the rcv axles I saw docs review on them and decided I need to incorporate them into my build. Once again thanks


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There seems to be quite a few members on here that wish they had bought bottom of the barrel 2wd X models and built from there. once you start replacing axles and transfer cases it's hard to justify buying a Rubicon
 

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Wow thank you gentlemen. I really appreciate the info. I needed it to make my decision on either buying an X or Rubicon. Looks like I can just strengthen the d30 and save the money in the difference and up grade to rockjock 60 when I break it. Thanks hitmoney on the 5.38 thread. As for the rcv axles I saw docs review on them and decided I need to incorporate them into my build. Once again thanks


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Woah woah. Even a beefed up 30 will have smaller shafts, smaller ujoints, and a smaller ring and pinion. Even if you super 30 it it still won't be as strong. A hp30 is a solid axle but is still significantly weaker than a 44.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Woah woah. Even a beefed up 30 will have smaller shafts, smaller ujoints, and a smaller ring and pinion. Even if you super 30 it it still won't be as strong. A hp30 is a solid axle but is still significantly weaker than a 44.
That sounds right but I'm not looking for a buggy axle or even a hardcore offroad axle setup. This is going to be my dd until paid off then will do the 60's and major upgrades I'm just looking for basic offroad and some minor crawlin. So what do ya think. Does a 44 really justify the extra 5 grand between the X and the rubi in my POU.


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it did for me. I put a 3.5" lift on my rubicon and a bunch of armor as well as 35's and have had a blast wheeling it. Not everyone is happy with this setup. if you are part of the crew that wants to go from stock to 37's, youre gonna have to strengthen several parts of your axle to run that, even if you have 44's. The best advice is to just take some time and do some research. I have friends with sleeved and strengthened waggy 44's with RCV's that swear by them and say they'll put them up against most D60's.

It really depends on what you like to wheel, and how aggresive you are with the skinny pedal. if you have some finesse and can pick a line, you'll be happy as a pig in shit with a rubicon on 35's. If you can't handle getting high centered every now and then, buy an X and plan for the beef down the road. Bottom line, if it has 4wd, you can wheel it somewhere in the mean time and have fun with it. You just gotta figure out what your plan is with it
 

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That sounds right but I'm not looking for a buggy axle or even a hardcore offroad axle setup. This is going to be my dd until paid off then will do the 60's and major upgrades I'm just looking for basic offroad and some minor crawlin. So what do ya think. Does a 44 really justify the extra 5 grand between the X and the rubi in my POU.


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Well, its gonna cost you a pretty good amount to beef up the 30... RCV's are a grand on their own... then you have to re-gear, locker, gusset and brace.

If you get the 44 you only have to gusset and brace... you can get by on the 4.10's for a while before you have to re-gear.

Or get the D30, don't do anything to it.. wheel it till you garbage disposal the axle and spend the 5k you saved on a Pro Rock 44 or a RJ60.

Or...........

Do what I wished I would have done... buy a nicely optioned 2wd and spend all the saved money on an Atlas and 60's.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, its gonna cost you a pretty good amount to beef up the 30... RCV's are a grand on their own... then you have to re-gear, locker, gusset and brace.

If you get the 44 you only have to gusset and brace... you can get by on the 4.10's for a while before you have to re-gear.

Or get the D30, don't do anything to it.. wheel it till you garbage disposal the axle and spend the 5k you saved on a Pro Rock 44 or a RJ60.

Or...........

Do what I wished I would have done... buy a nicely optioned 2wd and spend all the saved money on an Atlas and 60's.
Well damn hitmoney you sure know how to make sense to a guy. Thanks my main goal was to "plugnplay" so the rubi is gonna suit my needs the most. What I want is to run 37's and wheel about 1/2 as hard as you do in your vids. Just casual wheelin. Thank you all I now have a better understanding and plan.


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With the rubicon youre not only paying for the axle.
You'll get the 4:1 T Case (worth it), Rock rails (they are pretty decent too for stock parts), Electronic Swaybar Disconnect (real convenient), The infinity sound system, Yes essentials Seats, Etc....etc...etc...
Its worth the 5k for what youre doing if you can swing it.
 

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I can't agree on the e-disco. I've seen too many of them fail. Also, it's adding a fair lot of weight to the nose of the Jeep for something you can do yourself in a moment. As for Infinity, it's not much better than the base system, as it's truly limited by the factory HU- Mark W.
 

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Will after watching my buddy put his front locker back together with duct tape..I can't say much for the factory locker eaither..so for me it nails it down to the transfer case and the 44
After that you can keep the rest...
 
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