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Axle Choice

  • ProRock 44

    Votes: 6 23.1%
  • Rockjock D60

    Votes: 12 46.2%
  • Junkyard Superduty D60

    Votes: 8 30.8%
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Front D30 is bent. Going to get a new axle and I have 3 options. Prorock 44 (RCV's, Reid Knuckles, etc) $5k, Rock Jock D60 front $6k, Ford Superduty D60 (machined to have abs tone rings with ARBs, etc) $3.5-4k. Anyone who has experience and/or comparisons between any of them feel free to post up. Currently running 37's right now and may run 40's in the future.

I've heard guys run 40's on the Prorock 44 without any issues to speak of (wheel bearings being the only thing).
Obviously the Rock Jock is a 60 so its stronger.
Junkyard axles a junkyard axle with ABS/ESP retrofit.
 

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Subscribed! I need a front full width axle for my 42's to fit. Curious how this goes


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Not going with manual hubs, to me, would knock out the D44. I'd also want the width, U-joints and all else that goes with the 60s. Personally I'd like to own Dynatracs D44/D60 hybrid, but I think that's just a cool diff that'll do everything I want it to. $$$ though..
 

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You have 3 different bolt patterns listed.

PR44 - 5 x 5
RJ60 - 5 x 5.5
SD 60 - 8 x 170mm


It looks like you have a PR60 for the rear which I am guessing you are running the 5x5 pattern on.

If your going 40's I would really only be looking at the D60's.


RJ60 - you will need to swap to the 5 x 5.5 pattern in the rear and get a new set of wheel.

SD60 - You will need to get custom hubs drilled and swap patterns in the rear, along with new wheels.

PR44 - You could just swap in and be ready. But you still have a 44 in front which depending on you driving style could be fine.


Your other option that you don't have listed is a TeraFlex 60. They run the 5 x 5 bolt pattern so you wouldn't need to change wheels. But you don't get the option of manual hubs with the Tera60...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have 3 different bolt patterns listed.

PR44 - 5 x 5
RJ60 - 5 x 5.5
SD 60 - 8 x 170mm


It looks like you have a RJ60 for the rear which I am guessing you are running the 5x5 pattern on.

If your going 40's I would really only be looking at the D60's.


RJ60 - you will need to swap to the 5 x 5.5 pattern in the rear and get a new se of wheel.

SD60 - You will need to get custom hubs drilled and swap patterns in the rear, along with new wheels.

PR44 - You could just swap in and be ready. But you still have a 44 in front with depending on you driving style could be fine.


Your other option that you don't have listed is a TeraFlex 60. They run the 5 x 5 bolt pattern so you wouldn't need to change wheels.

Currie has a kit that would allow me to run a 5x5 JK pattern on the Superduty.
Not sure if they would build one of the rockjocks with a 5x5 haven't asked them yet.

I currently have a Prorock 60 in the rear that is 5x5. Love that axle and would love to have a PR in the front but its expensiveeee.

I am going to be switching wheels in the future to something with a 3.5" backspacing so I'm assuming I have that cost regardless of what I end up with.
 

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I would vote for a SD60 also only if you have the tools already to do the job. By my calculations you would be around $4,500-5,000 into a SD60 before the cost of tools (welder, grinder,....).

Add those tools on to the cost and you will be over the cost of a RJ60. Plus building an axle take a pretty good chunk of time. It's fun to do, but it takes time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would vote for a SD60 also only if you have the tools already to do the job. By my calculations you would be around $4,500-5,000 into a SD60 before the cost of tools (welder, grinder,....).

Add those tools on to the cost and you will be over the cost of a RJ60. Plus building an axle take a pretty good chunk of time. It's fun to do, but it takes time.
A local guy (guarnibl on the forum) just built one for his JK. Bolts right up and no lights on the dash all esp/abs compliant. He can get me in to it with gears, ARB, etc for significantly cheaper than the rockjock.
 

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Currie has a kit that would allow me to run a 5x5 JK pattern on the Superduty.
Not sure if they would build one of the rockjocks with a 5x5 haven't asked them yet.
As far as I know, the smallest bolt pattern you can get for the RJ60 or the SD conversion is a 5 x 5.5. Manual hubs will not fit on 5 x 5. But since you plan on replacing the wheels and you already have access to 5 x 5.5 on the rear, it's a non-issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As far as I know, the smallest bolt pattern you can get for the RJ60 or the SD conversion is a 5 x 5.5. Manual hubs will not fit on 5 x 5. But since you plan on replacing the wheels and you already have access to 5 x 5.5 on the rear, it's a non-issue.
What's the big gain from having manual hubs? I know how they work but apparently I'm just missing the huge advantage they give because almost every post in this thread has mentioned them.
 

· Jeepineer
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What's the big gain from having manual hubs? I know how they work but apparently I'm just missing the huge advantage they give because almost every post in this thread has mentioned them.
Break an axle, just unlock the hub, done. No trail repair/removal. And you can run the hubs open on the street. Less mass constantly turning, and you can run a better caster angle without fear of vibes at higher speeds due to a poorer pinion angle.
 

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What's the big gain from having manual hubs? I know how they work but apparently I'm just missing the huge advantage they give because almost every post in this thread has mentioned them.
It's nice being able to unlock your hubs for street duty but it's also nice to be able to unlock the front should your have some sort of failure. A broken shaft or R&P would end your day but you'd just unlock your front to drive home.

Many owners of JK's want locking hubs to allow them to fix caster angles without worrying about bad DS angles on the street.
 

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Also consider the super60 its even better. Already comes with 35 spline outer stubs. Little more work for the driver side lower control arm but would be worth it.

These #'s are off the top of my head.

SD60 500-800
Currie unit bearings 700
Machined high steer pass side knuckle 250
Locker 500- 1000
Gears 150
Misc heims or Bj's 200
Brackets 300 give or take

Edit: if u don't care about abs and a few dash lights. Save around 400 and have the unit bearings turned down, bored and re drilled. Braink motorsports and rock solid performance does them. I think they both charge around 300 for both.

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· RIP Brad
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I recently did something similar.....

For the cost of a front Currie, I ended up with a Super60 + Sterling 10.5. After all is said and done with detroits, shafts (RCV + 300M), brackets, gears, etc... I will be slightly more than the Currie front and have a way stronger setup.... and a rear to match!

Honestly... the only drawback to that is buying new wheels due to the bolt pattern.

I keep seeing guys knock the UBs... but looking on PBB, I rarely hear of them failing, see way more spindle failures, and I have yet to see/hear of a Super60 UB fail. Carry a spare and all worries are removed completely.

But... if you gotta go new and shiny, look at Dynatrac.
 
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